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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 6:47 am 
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It seems there have been quite a few people here recently that have had problematic stomp switches in their kits. Everyone should do a continuity check between all of the switch's poles and throws BEFORE proceeding with your build. Start by checking to see if you have continuity between lugs 1&2, 4&5 and 7&8. Before actuating the switch check to make sure that you do NOT have continuity between lugs 2&3, 5&6 and 8&9. Now actuate the switch and check to see if you have continuity between lugs 2&3, 5&6 and 8&9. Next, check to make sure that you do NOT have continuity between lugs 1&2, 4&5 and 7&8. Confirming that your switch is good prior to installing it will save you the headache of having to un-solder it later if you run into problems with your build.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 7:22 am 
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Good point, I would have saved a boat load of pointless troubleshooting on my first build had I done this. I tested every component but my switch prior to assembly. Big head ache saving tip here.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:35 am 
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You need a DMM. Actually, any multimeter will do it doesnt have to be digital... Some will have a preset continuity check or a fuse check, that will beep audibly when there's a connection (continuity) and won't if there isn't. If you don't have this option, set the meter to resistance. Infinite resistance means no continuty, 0 ohms resistance means continuity. Anything else and you're not measuring with the leads in the right places.

It should be noted that in a continuty check, or any resistance check, polarity doesn't matter so there is no difference in the red and black leads from the meter. So when Stephen says to check continuity between two lugs on the switch, it doesn't matter which lug has black and which has red.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 9:56 am 
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There should be continuity (electrical connection) between the middle row of lugs and either the upper row or lower row of lugs, depending on which way the switch is engaged.

So check between each lug in the middle and the lug directly above it and below it. Then press the switch and check again.

Make sure the lugs are horizontal, as shown in the illustration above.. :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:14 am 
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You can also make a visual one if you don't have a DMM. Probably more trouble than it is worth, and I like being able to HEAR my DMM chirp anyway.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:19 pm 
One of the most useful tools I have is probe with a flexible lead ending in an alligator clip. The body of the probe contains 2 x AA cells and a low voltage filament lighbulb. When you place a low resistance path between the probe point and the alligator clip the lightbulb lights up. This is by far the simplest and clearest way of indicating continuity. Not only can you use it to check things like switches and wire runs, but you can safely use it to test LEDs (yup LEDs - wrong way round and they aren't stressed with too high a voltage, the right way round both the LED and the lightbulb glow at a safe current and you know which lead on the LED is the anode), small motors, headphones and loudspeakers.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:39 am 
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sounds like a simple automotive test lamp.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:48 am 
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ah, but its active.. yeah, post a link to that.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:50 am 
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 10:08 am 
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Question: if you've already wired your foot switch in, and then suspect it may be faulty, does the continuity test work the same way? Or will there be completed circuits though the PCB?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 10:09 am 
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Still works. Continuity (& discontinuity) is what the footswitch is all about.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 10:41 am 
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Just be aware that there will be additional continuity points due to the jumpers you've installed between lugs 3 and 6 and lugs 4 and 9.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 10:48 am 
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Thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 11:34 am 
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sjaustin wrote:
Just be aware that there will be additional continuity points due to the jumpers you've installed between lugs 3 and 6 and lugs 4 and 9.

Excellent point, which I was remiss in not mentioning!

When in bypass, you will have continuity between lugs 4, 9 and 8, as well as between 2, 3, 5 and 6. When engaged, there will be continuity between 1 & 2, 7 & 8, and 4, 5 & 9.

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