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... but now I see that the build has been simplified, and the two toggle switches are removed from the kit. Is there a particular reason for this - I was kinda looking forward to building? And is there a chance that those two switches might be added to later versions again?

Thanks for your time.

It is my understanding (and the new v.2.1 instructions bear this out) that the PCB has not been altered, so the positions for the various clipping diodes and bass EQ capacitors are still present, along with the eyelets for the toggle switches. So all of those could be added, using the v.2.0 instructions. The new version enclosure doesn't have the holes drilled for the toggles, but that would be easy enough to measure and drill for yourself (1/4" hole diam. needed). So with a bit of extra effort, you could duplicate that previous version.

BTW, the toggles are the on-off-on SPDT PC-mount type: https://buildyourownclone.com/collectio ... pdtpc1-0-1

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thank you for the answer. I had hoped to buy the painted version 2.0 with the text applied, etc., but I guess I'll have to do another hand painted pedal, then.

I got rid of the toggle switches because they were more trouble than they were worth. Most people don't understand that the Centaur's gain knob is a wet/dry blend. If you have the gain set to anything less than almost full turn clockwise, the effects of the toggle switches are almost completely negated. This lead to a lot of tech support, only to find out that the problem was that the builder just didn't understand that this is how it's supposed to work. And most detrimental of all, is that when most of these people found this out, they saw this as some sort of defect or a shortcoming on the part of BYOC. I don't want to sell something that is likely to disappoint or underwhelm, so the toggle switches are gone.

Now, if you really want them, they are easy to add. The infrastructure is all still there on the PCB. You just need to drill the holes, get 2 SPDT on/off/on toggles, the extra diodes and caps, and follow the 2.0 instructions as DVM pointed out. You will need to make one very easy cut on the PCB. There is a trace on the top of the PCB between two of the clipping toggle eyelets that needs to be cut.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

We'll have painted enclosures again. I think we'll have them by the end of next week.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Thanks a lot for the details! I have a read a few other threads, and I see what you mean. The appeal to me about the Klon is actually the clean/OD blend feature, I want to try that in prctice, and none of my current pedals have it. As I am currently in Europe, I am searching for distributors in Europe to save a bit on shipping and taxes. Maybe one of them will have a 2.0 kit in store...

Personally I’m a fan of the toggle switch design and disagree with the people who didn’t favor it.

Sorry resurrect an oldish thread. Can the New version be built with any of the Diode options? I rather like the switching options. But I wouldn't mind just building one with the Germanium diodes. Currently making an enclosure out of a solid piece of Walnut that I had wanted to put a Silver Pony in. So I guess it would be a Walnut Pony.

JH

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A river is never the same from one second to the next.

The current version uses only germanium diodes, so if you're doing that, just build it stock. If you want to build it with just one of the other types of clipping diodes, just put them in the Ge spots. If you want to add in the switch, you can do that by adding two other types of diodes and the 3-way toggle from the previous version. (Personally, I think asymmetrical Germanium sounds better than silicone or LED!) I'd have to look at how the wiring of the switch would work, but if that's what you want, we can help.

BTW, the original Silver Pony had another toggle switch that added in capacitors to change the amount of bass. It doesn't sound like you're interested in making that mod, but we can help with it if you decide you are.

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

It's also worth mentioning that the new 2.1 version still uses the same PCB, with the only differences being the silkscreen labeling of the spots to be left empty with an "X". What the new kit lacks to build the 2.0 version is three things:

• The components (diodes & caps) for those empty PCB spots
• The two on-off-on SPDT mini-toggle switches for the clipping and EQ settings
• The holes in the enclosure to mount those switches

So if you really want to build the 2.0 version of the Silver Pony, you just need to purchase those missing parts and measure & drill the enclosure holes for the two switches. You can download the 2.0 instructions HERE and follow them for the build. It also includes the 2.0 parts list, so you can see which diodes and caps to acquire for those empty PCB spots.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I am attempting to order a Silver Pony kit but get an error when I try to add a painted enclosure. Is this because the painted enclosures are out of stock? If so, when are they expected to be back in stock?

Yes, that's the issue. AFAIK, BYOC is no longer offering the pre-painted enclosures. If there are plans to reintroduce them, I'm not aware of it.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2