1) The "In" and "Out" connections at the corners of the top of the board should work fine for your breakout box, but keep in mind that the signal still has to go through the footswitch, which must be engaged or you'll just get bypassed signal through the box. You also need a ground connection for the circuit; the one at the top of the board to the right of the "High" pot connections will provide that. If you wish to avoid going through the footswitch, the input to the effect circuit is eyelet 5 on the PCB, the output is eyelet 7, and the ground connection is eyelet 2. Here's Stephen's excellent diagram of the footswitch wiring scheme used by BYOC and many others:
2) It doesn't matter in this case which end of those two diodes has the dot
as long as they are oriented opposite of each other. They are connected together in parallel--take a look at the schematic and you'll see what I mean. So the way you have them mounted is fine.
3) You can read about the evolution of that 330R resistor in the Swede circuit here:
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=57117 Some builders prefer the sound with it in the circuit and some with it left out (i.e. jumpered). Its presence reduces the tendency of the pedal to squeal when the controls are "dimed" on the circuit. Different versions of the Swede have used both iterations. So go with whatever works/sounds best to you.
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