Build Your Own Clone Message Board

I prefer to test my circuits before the enclosure with a Beavis audio breakout box. Which pads are "IN" and "OUT." I tried the labeled "IN" and "OUT" at the top of the board and also what I believed to be the circuit in and out "1" and "4" at the bottom end of the PCB to no avail.

My second question is regarding the 2 GE diodes. As you can see in the attached picture I figured the two white dots were to signify the polarity (typically a black stripe). Was I incorrect to match the white dots to the polarity stripe on the board? I ask because I have another functioning SWEDE built by geargasstore and the white dots are opposite of mine.

Third and final question what is accomplished by replacing the 330R at the top of the board with a jumper? Once again the geargasstore pre-build I own used the 330R instead of a jumper and it sounds just like an original HM-2 to my ears.

Thank you very much for your consideration reading this post. I have successfully built 20+ pedals, I am simply a bit confused with the layout of the SWEDE as the off board wires are different than I am used to working with.

Cheers!

1) The "In" and "Out" connections at the corners of the top of the board should work fine for your breakout box, but keep in mind that the signal still has to go through the footswitch, which must be engaged or you'll just get bypassed signal through the box. You also need a ground connection for the circuit; the one at the top of the board to the right of the "High" pot connections will provide that. If you wish to avoid going through the footswitch, the input to the effect circuit is eyelet 5 on the PCB, the output is eyelet 7, and the ground connection is eyelet 2. Here's Stephen's excellent diagram of the footswitch wiring scheme used by BYOC and many others:



2) It doesn't matter in this case which end of those two diodes has the dot as long as they are oriented opposite of each other. They are connected together in parallel--take a look at the schematic and you'll see what I mean. So the way you have them mounted is fine.

3) You can read about the evolution of that 330R resistor in the Swede circuit here: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=57117 Some builders prefer the sound with it in the circuit and some with it left out (i.e. jumpered). Its presence reduces the tendency of the pedal to squeal when the controls are "dimed" on the circuit. Different versions of the Swede have used both iterations. So go with whatever works/sounds best to you.

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Great! Thank you for your insight. The pcb is functioning as intended. Also, thanks for the link to the discussion about the 330R.