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PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2020 10:40 am 
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Don't replace the transistors yet--I doubt that they are part of the problem. Possible? Yes. Probable? No. They are amazingly tough little buggers.

I would instead recommend that you buy or make yourself a SIGNAL TESTER, which can be used to pinpoint where the signal is dropping out. But hold off on that for the moment.

As a next step, I'd recommend that you test a couple of points in the trem circuit for DC voltage level, which is why I asked if you had access to a multimeter. Please take these readings at the following points:

  • The bottom leg of the 1N4001 diode at the bottom left of the PCB
  • The bottom leg of the 2N5457 transistor just above that
  • The top leg of the 2N5088 transistor to the left of the Volume pot connections

Here's how to do that:

To measure the DC voltage level, set your multimeter to the DC voltage mode, indicated by a straight line above a dotted line; use the 20VDC range setting if it's not an auto-ranging meter. Of course, your power source needs to be connected and there needs to be a cable in the input jack. If the pedal is assembled into the metal enclosure, put the black probe into one of the corner screw bosses of the enclosure--this is your ground connection. If the "guts" are out of the enclosure, use the sleeve tab of the input jack for the ground connection. Then touch the red probe to the test point that you want to measure and hold it there until the reading is stable within a couple of hundredths of a volt. Repeat the process for each test point.

Please report your results here.

Incidentally, which transistor was it that you had to relocate?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2020 10:54 am 
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1) 9.5
2)9.4
3)5.44
i had to relocate the 5457 right below the depth knob


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2020 11:54 am 
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OK, those voltages look good.

I think your best bet at this point is to get a signal tester so that you can pinpoint where the trem signal drops out along its signal path. See link in my previous post. Alternatively, you can build your own using the directions available through that product page for guidance.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2020 12:19 pm 
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Thanks, I don’t see the instructions on how to build my own on the product page


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2020 2:09 pm 
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http://diy-fever.com/misc/audio-probe/

Here is an example

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2020 4:01 pm 
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Thanks! I’ll make one, how do I test with it?


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2020 5:22 pm 
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mastabassa111 wrote:
Thanks, I don’t see the instructions on how to build my own on the product page

Yeah, you're right, it's not there anymore. Here's the link: http://byocelectronics.com/signaltesterinstructions.pdf

The last page describes how to use it. It's pretty straightforward. First, you want to understand what this device does: think of it as a "movable output jack." It allows you to connect any point in the circuit to your amp or other output device and hear the audio signal that's present at that point.

To use it, connect your guitar (or other audio source) to the input jack of the pedal and connect your power source, but do NOT connect your amp cable/output device to the output jack. Instead, connect that cable to the 1/4" jack of the signal tester. Next, you want to affix the alligator clip of the tester to a ground point on the pedal--I usually use the sleeve solder tab of the input jack for this purpose. Be sure that you have a good, firm connection with the alligator clip, since the tester won't work if the black wire isn't grounded. Be sure your amp/output device is powered and set to go and engage the pedal footswitch. Set your pedal's control pots to their midpoints and you're now ready to start testing.

To test, you need to hold the red probe of the tester against whatever point in the circuit that you wish to test for the presence of audio signal and then pluck one of your guitar's strings. What you want to focus on is the main signal path through the pedal circuit, which is determined from the pedal circuit schematic. The positions of the components to be tested are then found on a labeled PCB diagram, assuming that one is available. The schematic and PCB map for the Tremolo is located in this thread, about 2/3 of the way down: viewtopic.php?f=29&t=39393. Once you get the signal tester together, we can help you with identifying the specific test points.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2021 2:49 pm 
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I have all the parts except the jack and probe, could I use just a guitar input jack and a wire lead as a probe? If not I can go to the electronics store Monday


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2021 3:20 pm 
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Yes here is another example

https://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2021 4:42 pm 
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mastabassa111 wrote:
I have all the parts except the jack and probe, could I use just a guitar input jack and a wire lead as a probe?

Yes. As long as you can contact the test point, run the signal through a cap to block the DC, and get the output into you amp or other output device.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2021 4:51 pm 
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ok i got my tester wired up, so i plug my guitar into the powered pedal and then this tester into my amp and trace thru the circuit? what am i listening for? is there anyway i can get bitten by anything?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2021 5:30 pm 
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so far i hear a sound from r3,r2 but not r4, sound from Q1 and not Q2


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2021 7:18 pm 
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OK, the locations to test need to be in the signal path, as shown in the schematic. The pedal needs to be powered and the footswitch engaged. Apply your probe to the test point and strum the guitar to generate signal. I would start with these points:

  1. Lug 4 of the footswitch
  2. Lug 5 of the footswitch
  3. Middle leg (source) of Q1
  4. Middle leg (base) of Q2
  5. Upper leg (collector) of Q2
  6. Left lug of the Volume pot
  7. Lug 7 of the footswitch
  8. Lug 8 of the footswitch

Test them in the order shown and report where the signal drops out.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2021 7:32 pm 
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1 and 2 generated sound from the guitar, 3 did not (but the top leg of it did?)


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2021 8:08 pm 
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How about after #3 in the sequence? Check them all, please.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2021 8:29 pm 
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1 good
2 good
3 no
4 barely audible
5 barely audible
6 no
7 no
8 no


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2021 4:55 pm 
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OK, there definitely seems to be a problem at Q1. There should be a clear dry (i.e. no tremolo effect yet) signal there on both the source and base of that 2N5457. Can you get a close-up photo of the solder joints on the underside of the PCB for that transistor?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 3:35 am 
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I hope this works, let me know if you need a different one


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 10:59 am 
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Nothing looks amiss there, so I'd have to go with the assumption that Q1 is bad. Suggest that you go ahead and replace it. Just in case, I'd buy 2. Be advised that there are a lot of counterfeit JFETs being passed off as genuine, so be sure to deal with a reputable source. BYOC appears to be out of stock on 2N5457's, but you can inquire at sales@buildyourownclone.com. I believe Barry has them in stock over at GuitarPVB.com: https://guitarpcb.com/product/2n5457-jfet/

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 3:32 pm 
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https://leeselectronic.com/en/product/71797.html
i can pick these up locally, its a pretty reputable store, ill replace and post how it goes


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 4:15 pm 
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Sounds reasonable. Let us know how it goes.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2021 12:31 am 
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i changed the transistor, it sounds really distorted with no real tremolo sound even with the knobs up, weirdly enough when the level volume is highest the distortion clears up, i ordered the transistors from guitarpcb but im in canada so itll probably take a while to arrive


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