Build Your Own Clone Message Board

I realize there's a mini modded classic OD.

Could there be a release of just a mini classic 808 OD?

No need to issue a separate pedal, since you could get to the unmodified Classic OD (TS808) circuit by just changing a handful of resistor and cap values in the Li'l Modified OD, and jumpering one of the series diode pair in the op amp gain stage feedback loop. Just compare the Classic OD schematic to the Li'l Modified OD schemo, and locate the components that need to be changed on Stephen's labeled PCB diagram (see these below). You may need to buy a few components, notably 1/8W resistors to fit the tight spacing of the mini pedal, but that should only run you a few dollars, shipping included....

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Yeah, it's still the exact same circuit, you just change a few parts. Change C4 and C5. Change R3, R6, R7, and R13. Remove D5 and replace it with a jumper. That's it.

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*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Ok just placed an order.

Since C5 is a .22 U tantalum polarized capicitor, which direction on the circuit board should it go?

The negative end goes towards ground.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Personally, I would just stay with a film cap for C5. First of all, you're not going to hear any difference between the two types, and secondly, C6 in the original 808 circuit was also a tant, so changing one and not the other isn't going to get you to "authentic vintage" status anyway. Just my dos centavos....

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Ok so if I do use a film cap for C5, it's the same .22 U value right?

Yes, exactly. 0.22μf, a.k.a 220n.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Ok, I finally assembled it.

The volume and drive works, however the Tone does not work.

Any ideas?

( I also reflowed the soldered joints so I don't it's a solder problem)

Does the pot itself work? This can easily be checked with a multimeter in resistance mode.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I think the pot does work. But still no tone control in action

I don't know anything about multimeters but when I set it on 2M, the reading comes to .025 and it is a B25K pot.

All I have is the small cheap radio shack multimeter

What is important is that the center lug (a.k.a. the "wiper") is making internal contact with the resistive element and changing in resistance value across the sweep of the pot. What you need to do to test this is to place one probe of your meter on one of the outside lugs and the other on the center lug, and then rotate the pot shaft from one end of its arc to the other. It should register very close to zero resistance at one side and ~25 Kohms at the other. I would suggest setting the meter to the 200K range for this measurement. If the meter shows an infinite resistance (i.e. an open circuit, with no contact being made), then the pot is defective and needs to be replaced.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I just did the multimeter test as you suggested

My reading was 0.00 on one end of the knob turn and 25.2 on the other end of the knob turn.

Have you operated the pedal with the tone pot at its two extremes? There is a large "dead spot" in the middle of the control that seems to do nothing, but the control should work effectively at the last 15 - 20 % or so of its sweep on both sides.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Yes I have checked. The sound is identical on opposite full turns of the knob.

I also have the BYOC Classic Overdrive which is the same pedal and the tone knob change is obvious when I turn it.

Should R1 be 511K?

Right now R1 is 470K. Maybe that's causing it

No, I'm sure that's not it. I very much doubt that you would even be able to hear the difference between those two values at that position in the circuit in an A/B test.

Concentrate on the components that are in the op amp feedback loop where the tone control resides: R10, R11 and C6. I would suspect a bad solder joint in there somewhere....

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I reflowed and still no tone.

I think the issue is that R10 (220 ohm) may be the wrong resistor.

The instructions says that the color should be Red/Red/Black/Black/Brown

On my PCB, the color is Red/Red/Black/Red/Brown ( off by one color)

On my multimeter, it reads 21.9 when set at 200k.

Yeah, that would definitely be a problem! Sounds like you got a 22K instead of a 220R. Contact sales@buildyourownclone.com, and they'll take care of you....

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Ok success.

I replaced R10 with the correct resistor and now the tone control works. Thx.