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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2020 2:23 pm 
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I started building the Analog Chorus recently, and this was my first time working with the super small resistors. I started putting everything in place but came across two issues:

1. The difference in the coloring of the bands between the "10k (103) (Brown/Black/Black/Red/Brown)" and "1k (102) (Brown/Black/Black/Brown/Brown)" with the batch that I was using were completely indecipherable. The red was so dark that it looked identical to the brown, I ended up soldering in the wrong one to the wrong spot, and then trying to desolder it, for me, was next to impossible. I broke one of the resistors trying to get it out. My soldering station has a magnifying glass with an LED around it, so even with plenty of light, the difference between this color brown and this color red was minimum.

2. The numerical system for labeling which resistor goes where with this one was just enormously hard to keep track of. In hindsight, I can see why it was done this way, but I ruined a board by messing up the difference between 103 and 104. If you ever update the instructions, a little note up top would be really helpful for that. "101 is 10 + 1 zero, which is 100R. 1k, labeled 102, is 10 + 2 zeros. Etc" I ended up burning one of the thru holes because I kept getting confused.

I had 3 successful builds, and got cocky with this one, and it ruined me in the end. Ha ha I'm keeping my eye for the next time it's in stock, and I'm going to just get the board and the parts and try again.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2020 2:44 pm 
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Kevinopatrick wrote:
1. The difference in the coloring of the bands between the "10k (103) (Brown/Black/Black/Red/Brown)" and "1k (102) (Brown/Black/Black/Brown/Brown)" with the batch that I was using were completely indecipherable. The red was so dark that it looked identical to the brown, I ended up soldering in the wrong one to the wrong spot, and then trying to desolder it, for me, was next to impossible. I broke one of the resistors trying to get it out. My soldering station has a magnifying glass with an LED around it, so even with plenty of light, the difference between this color brown and this color red was minimum.

With these tiny 1/8W resistors, your best bet is to measure them with a multimeter before installation. A lot of builders do this even with the larger 1/4W kind. And for the color-blind among us, it's the only option.

Kevinopatrick wrote:
2. The numerical system for labeling which resistor goes where with this one was just enormously hard to keep track of. In hindsight, I can see why it was done this way, but I ruined a board by messing up the difference between 103 and 104. If you ever update the instructions, a little note up top would be really helpful for that. "101 is 10 + 1 zero, which is 100R. 1k, labeled 102, is 10 + 2 zeros. Etc" I ended up burning one of the thru holes because I kept getting confused.

Those numerical resistor codes are included in the instruction's parts list (page 5), along with the resistance values and color-band codes.

Kevinopatrick wrote:
I had 3 successful builds, and got cocky with this one, and it ruined me in the end. Ha ha I'm keeping my eye for the next time it's in stock, and I'm going to just get the board and the parts and try again.

No need to give up on the kit. Even with a couple of damaged solder eyelets, we can almost always get the circuit functioning with a couple of properly placed wire jumpers. Post some good photos (LARGE, well-lit, well-focused shots of BOTH sides of the PCB and all of the jack and switch wiring) and we can walk you through it.

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