Build Your Own Clone Message Board

I would suggest that you contact BYOC directly and ask them (and perhaps report what they say).

I've read the threads on mods for this and have the kit already. I just want to understand- if what I'm after is an MXR Phase 90/100, is this it? I understand that there are "better" sounding phasers out there and that this kit can be "improved", but is the exact MXR circuit and componants one of the options with the stock kit?

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Twisting and tinning is for chumps.

So... before I get working on this one-

A good place to start might be the mods to C1, C11, and C12 (47 to 150n), plus the 68k jump across Q7?

What about the zener diode? Worth doing from the get go? I'm not necessarily looking fo HUGE phasing, just closer to the MXR 90/100.

Alternate source for the SIL 64s, BYOC has been sold out?

Thanks

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Twisting and tinning is for chumps.

Did you build it already? If not, it's really always best to build a circuit stock first. Then if you're looking for something different, time to mod it.

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

No, didn't start my build yet, but with all the comments and suggestions on this one I figured I'd just cut to the chase. I agree with you in principal.

Most of the SIL sockets I see in a search are from Europe- got a domestic source?

These look like them- Small Bear?

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=101

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Twisting and tinning is for chumps.

Yes, Small Bear has 'em. So does pretty much everybody else:

BYOC: http://buildyourownclone.com/parts/sock ... sil64.html

Mammoth: http://www.mammothelectronics.com/620-S ... -sip36.htm

Pedal Parts Plus: http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merch ... y_Code=SOC

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I think I'll take your advice Morgan. I'm still a beginner at this, so I should make sure I have a functioning stock pedal before I go wandering off into the woods...

(but I may put some sockets in, hedging my bets... )

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Twisting and tinning is for chumps.

OK, I should finish my tremolo pedal this weekend (more famous last words...) and start the Phase Royal. So where (if anywhere) would you suggest socketing up-front assuming I would want to play around with it down the line?

C1
C11
C12
?

I'm assuming the resisitor bridge mod doesn't lend itself to socketing, just solder across?

Thanks.

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Twisting and tinning is for chumps.

Given the power supply issue with the zener diode, if I have no interest in using a battery, what about a daughter board in the battery compartment with a 5 V regulator to give a solid voltage? I've got the kit, but haven't opened it up and built it yet.

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BYOC Pedals: OD2 (MosFET mod); Large Beaver (Triangle); Armstrong Twin; Leeds Fuzz; Analog Flanger; Analog Chorus; ESV Fuzz

I think I've done a definitive and final fix.
I finally got around to trying one of Tark's mods - he mentions the possibility of using a 7805 regulator instead of the zener. He didn't follow up further but this turns out to be an easy fix. The zener does not reach it's rated 5.1v so it is rather worthless. a 5 volt regulator is probably easier than finding a suitable zener.
get yourself a TO92 style "7805" positive 5v regulator. look up its pinout. It has 3 legs OUT, Ground, and IN. And you need a 68k resistor.
Note their position or take a picture, and remove R37 and the zener diode D2. see where they are on the schematic - if you're not a schematic reader, just find this one spot in the lower left corner of the drawing (right side up). once those are removed, (and imagine them removed from the schematic) - you have 9 volts (one end of r37 was there) ground (the bottom of D2 was there) and the "+Vref", which is the 5v supply connection.
the regulator will reduce 9v to 5v, so the OUT leg goes to the 5V supply line - this is where the cathode stripe end of the zener was attached. The Ground leg goes where the other zener leg was - ground. The input is 9v, where the R37 was, the end closest to the outer edge of the pcb. The IN leg goes there.
This can all be done with the board still installed in the enclosure, just don't shove the legs of the regulator all the way thru the holes where the resistor and diode were.
Now look up the pinout for a 5087 transistor, and find Q7. Bend the transistor over and tack-solder the resistor to the emitter and base legs. As Tark pointed out, this Q7 68k mod won't do much for you until you get a stable 5 volt supply going.
At this point, you probably need to readjust that trimmer for best sound, deepest phasing. It is just one little spot in the trimmer's range. The instructions seem to intimidate people. just put every knob at 12 o'clock.

On mine, I also replaced C11 and C12 with slightly larger values. This brings back some bass. This mod is described elsewhere in this forum.