Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Oh, and since we're now in the mods section:

Here's a quick diagram of how to wire that with a dual color led that turns on with the master bypass, and changes color following the status of the "bypass with repeats" switch - you may for example use green for pedal is on + on, and red for pedal is on, but off!




K

Don't mix signals on the switch.

What you want to do is cut the clean signal input to the delay chip, without breaking the feedback loop return.

To do this, you need to lift one resistor and put it onto a switch. The resistor in question is the 15k that sits directly above the 22k/10k mixing section on the lower left side of the board.

If you do this mod, I recommend keeping a 3PDT to totally bypass the delay when not in use. This could be a toggle on the side. Wire the 15k resistor to a DPDT footswitch using the second lug for a status led.

K

NOTE: Small error/leftover from another diagram, the 9v wiring should go straight from the led pad on board to the 2nd switch - not via the jack. I'll fix it when I get time.

K

There's a secret trick to adding the mod in an external enclosure, and it involves parallel resistors. If you look at the diagram on the right, you'll recognize the 15k resistor, now bridging the ring and tip connectors. This makes the pedal work normally with no jack inserted. When you insert the jacks, the pot in the external enclosure will be in parallel with the 15k. Note that this also means that the external feedback pot is bigger:




Some may ask why I've not drawn it with mono jacks, since I'm only using two of the lugs on the jacks. Well, you CAN use mono jacks, if you also use plastic washers and make absolutely sure that the jack metal isn't touching the enclosures anywhere.

K

The BYOC delay is a clone of the Rebote 2.0 by Francisco Peña from Tonepad. After Keith build the BYOC delay board, Francisco updated his delay design to version 2.5, with several changes in gain structure and filtering throughout the circuit. After studying the Rebote schematics, I realized that there only were 4 extra components, making up two extra lowpass filters around the delay input & output. The rest of the changes are value changes on existing components. So I thought it should be fairly easy to do a drawing on how to build the BYOC to 2.5 spec - and here it is:

[align=center][/align]

For easy reading I've chosen to draw this with a separate piece of perf for the extra components. This is so easy that you can do it on a piece of cardboard if you want. But it does mean six flying wires. Smart folks may be able to figure out how to do this the simpler way, leaving the components in place and lifting just the right ends to connect the extra parts point to point above the board.

Lots of changes, so I probably wouldn't try this on a fully assembled board, but I may order a new board to test it out. (Yes, that means this is untested... Who wants to go first?? )

Enjoy!

K

Here's where this all started -

Delay roll off Part 1.

The values used in today's testing were 0.0018uF, 0.0022uF and 0.0027uF.

I had some free time today so I decided to experiment some more. I found the easiest way to look at things was this. Think of the 0.0027uF in the upper position as the cap that sets/affects the amount of treble that gets rolled off on the first repeat. However much treble you decide to roll off here will only increase in the repeats that follow. The 0.0027uF in the lower position affects the amount of treble rolled off in subsequent repeats. That being said, here's what I found -

The lowest value in the upper position that I found useable without producing any undesireable side effects was a 0.0018uF. When I dropped below that, the limitations of the PT2399 started to show. If you want the absolute cleanest sound delay available from the circuit, the 0.0018uF's in both positions is the way to go. The treble roll off is slight but noticeable in the initial and subsequent repeats but may be too clean or not "analog" enough for some. Personally I like it.

I think the best way to approach this is to install sockets on the PCB for the upper and lower cap positions, gather up two each of the values from 0.0018uF to 0.0027uF and start swapping. Try setting the upper position/initial repeat sound first. Start with the 0.0018uF, hit a note or chord and listen to that first repeat only. If you want to hear the biggest difference, replace it with a 0.0027uF and play the note/chorg again. Notice how much treble rolls off that first repeat. Once you get that where you want it, go through the same process with the lower cap. The lower value the cap in the lower position, the less treble roll off over the greater length of time. The higher the value, the faster the treble will roll off with each repeat. The ideal test situation would be to have two delay pedals side by side, one stock and one with socketed caps. In lieu of that I would strongly recommend a capacitor substitution box (last item on the page). For $16.99 you can't go wrong and it would undoubtedly come in handy for other projects. A possibly cool mod to the delay would be installing two switches...one that would allow you to set the roll off for the initial repeat and the other to set the roll off for subsequent repeats. I hope this helps out and if I was unclear during any part of this post please do not hesitate to ask questions.

Now on to figuring out how kill the switch pop in the delay!

After playing with the treble roll off some more, my suggestion would be this. Replace the upper 0.0027uf with a DPDT on/on toggle with a 0.0018uF on one side and a 0.0027uF on the other. Replace the lower 0.0027uF with a 0.0022uF. To my ears this gives you the ability to switch between very nice clean(er) analog sounding repeats (0.0018uf + 0.0022uF) and darker sounding repeats (0.0027uF + 0.0022uF) where the treble rolls off quicker. The easiest way to hear the difference is to set the Delay and Blend all the way up and set the Repeats to the maximum before oscillation kicks in.

Delay build with an FX loop and a 4PDT to send either dry or wet through the loop.



K

There's a secret trick to adding the mod in an external enclosure, and it involves parallel resistors. If you look at the diagram on the right, you'll recognize the 15k resistor, now bridging the ring and tip connectors. This makes the pedal work normally with no jack inserted. When you insert the jacks, the pot in the external enclosure will be in parallel with the 15k. Note that this also means that the external feedback pot is bigger:


[align=center]
[/align]
Some may ask why I've not drawn it with mono jacks, since I'm only using two of the lugs on the jacks. Well, you CAN use mono jacks, if you also use plastic washers and make absolutely sure that the jack metal isn't touching the enclosures anywhere.

K

Is there any diagram showing the effects loop mod by itself?

Is it possible to put it in and have it on all the time (no need for extra switch)

Also, do pedals in the loop effect only the repeats or the whole signal?

In the second version diagram, wouldn't plugging an expression pedal into the jack coming off the repeats knob allow expression control of the delay repeats - allowing you to ramp up into self-oscillation? This is something I planned on doing if I can get a hold of the delay kit anytime soon. I was originally going to follow a diagram I found that piggybacked the jack wires off the pot lugs. This looks like an easier way, though. What do you think?

Here is a popular mod. You switch in a 25K resistor in series with the delay pot. Using a 25K delay pot gives you approximately 0-300ms of delay time. Add a 25k resistor in series with that pot and you get about 300-600 ms. Some people prefer this mod to the 50K pot because the delay pot has a more user-friendly feel to it when you adjusting 300ms worth of delay time throughout the sweep of the pot as opposed to 600ms. It just feels more accurate with the smaller sweep.

Anyhow, here is a real nice diagram drawn up by phil:



Enjoy!

The BYOC delay cuts any trailing repeats immediately when the effect is bypassed (because it is true bypass!). Some people are used to the repeats trailing off even after the pedal is bypassed. Here is a mod that allows you to keep your precious, trailing repeats...

Please note that this mod is still un-verfied. If anyone has done it, please report your findings!

Would this give you two switchable delay times?

Is there a way to rig this without using a dual-colour LED?

What effect would this mod have as drawn?

Could you socket the perf board and experiment with filtering/gain structure by swapping components etc?

Yes. How do you want it to work? 2 LEDs? 1 LED? No LED? The dual color LED in the diagram will be one color when you are in "normal" mode, another color when you in "trailing" mode, and off when the pedal is bypassed.

Two Led's would be my choice. I have a superbright for the on/off and would use a spare "normal" red one (from my Phaser kit) for "trails on".

Thanks Morgan.

I'm ordering the parts later today for the duel rate mod so whatever I need for this mod will get bought at the same time.

Let me know if you need more info on how to wire up 2 LEDs for this - but it should be pretty self explanitory. Best of luck on the build! Should be a good one.

If I'm right, Pin 6 from the trails switch would go to the + on the main LED. Pin 4 would go to the + on the "trails" status LED and both -'s wold go to pin 1 of switch 1. Correct?

Is there a diagram for switching simulataneously to two differnet sets of Delay and Repeats knobs? I was thinking about building another delay where I could toggle between two different sets of delay and repeat setting, with an LED indicator for each pair of settings. Could it be done with a 3PDT switch?