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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 2:15 pm 
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This?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 2:43 pm 
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Morgan wrote:
This?

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Awesome, exactly!
owe you a beer.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:24 am 
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the effect loop mod for this is exactly what i am looking for to add to another project.

can the loop be adapted to work on other pedals?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:14 pm 
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Yeah - you can put the loop in the dry signal path, the wet path, or the mixed path. Post the schematic, let me know if you want a dry or wet loop & I'll tell you where to insert it.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:31 pm 
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having a lil trouble finding a schematic.. i will keep looking...
in the meantime, there is this.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:56 pm 
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You've got explain what you want to send through the loop bud! :D

You want the delayed signal sent the through the loop?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 1:00 pm 
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HAHAHAHAHA!!!!! that would be a big help!!

yeah.. delay in the loop

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:40 pm 
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guh.. i am thinking about trying to work the feedback mod into it too on a momentary foot switch like the neptune "freak the feck out" button

this enclosure may wind up being less metal than holes!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 1:29 pm 
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here it is, the audio path is the same from this schem to what i built.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 1:47 pm 
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Oh cool, that's easy. Take the wire that usually goes to lug 1 of the blend pot and route it to the tip of the send jack. Then run a wire from the tip of the return jack to lug 1 of the blend pot. Viola!

Do you know how to make the effect loop switchable with switching jacks, or do you need guidance there?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 1:49 pm 
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lol ima need a lil guidance!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 11:39 am 
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I like to use shorting jacks for this (there are other ways to do this).

http://www.mammothelectronics.com/4SJK104M-p/610-1006.htm

Take the wire that usually goes to lug 1 of the blend pot and route it to the tip of the send jack. Wire the tip of the return jack to lug 1 of the blend pot. The shunt lugs (the third solder tab on each jack that isn't the tip or the sleeve) get wired together. The sleeves can be grounded through the enclosure (no ground wires necessary).

With nothing plugged into the loop, the signal will travel from the pcb through the send/return jacks and back to the blend pot, functioning as normal. When you insert guitar cables into the loop, it opens the shunt connections and routes the signal through whatever is in the loop and then back to the blend pot.

Make sense? :D

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 6:52 pm 
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kahel wrote:
Here's the way to do it with a regular 3PDT:

Image

The neat trick here is that since you already have ground on the switch, you can just tag onto that pole for the second lug on the repeats pots. You have to use separate LEDs, this doesn't work with most dual-color LEDs.

K



After a 6 year hiatus I have returned to this thread... lolol

Anyway, I dug out this byoc delay and decided to re-house it with the mod above.. except with a Momentary switch to go back and forth between the delays, among other goodies.

I'm getting a popping sound when I go back and forth between the delays. Any ideas on what is causing this and what could prevent it?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 8:48 am 
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Try a cap across lugs 8 and 2 of the footswitch (just hold it across those lugs before you solder it in, to see if it works). Value isn't critical, but large caps, like a 10µf, will give you an interesting ramp between delay times. If you use an electrolytic, the negative lead goes to lug 8. You probably won't ever get it completely silent, but the cap should help.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 11:36 am 
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Awesome, thanks Morgan


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 3:25 pm 
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Morgan wrote:
Here is a popular mod. You switch in a 25K resistor in series with the delay pot. Using a 25K delay pot gives you approximately 0-300ms of delay time. Add a 25k resistor in series with that pot and you get about 300-600 ms. Some people prefer this mod to the 50K pot because the delay pot has a more user-friendly feel to it when you adjusting 300ms worth of delay time throughout the sweep of the pot as opposed to 600ms. It just feels more accurate with the smaller sweep.

Anyhow, here is a real nice diagram drawn up by phil:

Image

Enjoy!



Would this work reasonably well with a 22k resistor instead of a 25k?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 3:39 pm 
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Yes

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 4:55 pm 
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awesome... some of the links at the beginning of this thread no longer work. (fully loaded delay)
any chance there is a working link for this?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 5:41 pm 
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RiffRaff wrote:
awesome... some of the links at the beginning of this thread no longer work. (fully loaded delay)
any chance there is a working link for this?



I found the file, and uploaded it to the new server:

http://byocelectronics.com/Fully_Loaded_Delay.pdf

Can't do anything about the facebook link though.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 10:06 am 
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I've applied a couple of the mods to the Classic Delay. Fun stuff! Did the Long/Short delay time switch with dual color LED and an Oscillate foot switch.

I'm having some trouble figuring out where to punch in the circuit for the trails mod...if that's even possible.

So my questions are:

1. What should I be expecting as far as delay times when switching the 50k Delay pot to 25k and adding a 25k resistor on a switch? Does this make it a switchable 600/300 ms delay (as alluded to in the MODs thread), or a 300/150 ms delay.

2. Is there is a place on the Classic Delay for the Trails mod?

Thanks for this thread and recently posting the old delay schematic, helped me figure out some of the above items.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 11:59 am 
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paulman5 wrote:
1. What should I be expecting as far as delay times when switching the 50k Delay pot to 25k and adding a 25k resistor on a switch? Does this make it a switchable 600/300 ms delay (as alluded to in the MODs thread), or a 300/150 ms delay.

If you use a 25k delay pot, that gives you a max of 300ms. Adding a 25k resistor in series with the pot gives you a minimum 300ms delay and a maximum 600 ms delay. So, switch off and you get 0-300 ms, switch on and you get 300-600ms.

paulman5 wrote:
2. Is there is a place on the Classic Delay for the Trails mod?

Yes, in this old diagram, you were just disconnecting the wet signal path input resistor:
Image

To translate that to the classic delay, you switch R11.

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2016 11:51 am 
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Thanks for the info! This is fun.

I'm still questioning the long delay time. The original spec of the Classic delay is 300 ms with no mod and a 50k pot. With the 25k pot and resistor on switch it still sounds like 300ms on the long and 150ms on the short. Short setting sound reverb-y to my ears.

I can't really tell what the original spec of the Digital Delay was, but from perusing this entire thread (fun read, seriously)it looks to be 600ms.

Thoughts? I'm just trying to get this straight in my head. Thanks for helping on the path to my first modded pedal!


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2016 1:27 pm 
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paulman5 wrote:
I'm still questioning the long delay time. The original spec of the Classic delay is 300 ms with no mod and a 50k pot. With the 25k pot and resistor on switch it still sounds like 300ms on the long and 150ms on the short.

The delay time is purely a function of resistance. 25k makes 300ms and 50k makes 600ms. 100k makes 1.2 seconds but anything over 600ms sounds really bad.

With the switch mod, you have a 25k pot that makes 0-300 ms. When you switch in the 25k resistor, that bumps the minimum delay time to 300ms because you always have at least 25k resistance on the delay chip. You add that to the 25k pot, and you now have 25k-50k resistance, equating to 300-600ms delay time.

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