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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 3:22 pm 
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Location: West Wales ... isn't it.
You can get a 4 (and even 5) pin XLR ... nice chassis mount socket too ... yummm :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 12:34 am 
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pbay1129 wrote:
This is the regular delay. I appreciate your help Kahel, I'm actually doing a gig next month in Voss, hope to use my modded byoc delay over there! 8^)


Okay, here's an idea. It's a hack, but it may work great.

Disconnect the 15k resistor bridging ring and tip on the internal jack. For the wire that goes from lug 2 of the repeats pot to ring on the jack, move this from lug 2 to lug 3. Add a new path going from lug 2 of the pot, via the 15k resistor, back to R2 on the board, or to tip on the jack, whichever is easier.

What we're doing here is: Instead of running the mod in parallel with the 15k oscillation resistor, we're running it in parallel with the entire repeats path. Try it, let me know how that works.

K


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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 1:41 pm 
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Great! I will give this a shot. Thanks Kahel.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 1:03 pm 
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Morgan wrote:
Skiraly017 figured out that you can affect the amount of treble roll-off by switching out a couple of caps.

Here's how to do it:

skiraly017 wrote:
Here's where this all started -

Delay roll off Part 1.

The values used in today's testing were 0.0018uF, 0.0022uF and 0.0027uF.

I had some free time today so I decided to experiment some more. I found the easiest way to look at things was this. Think of the 0.0027uF in the upper position as the cap that sets/affects the amount of treble that gets rolled off on the first repeat. However much treble you decide to roll off here will only increase in the repeats that follow. The 0.0027uF in the lower position affects the amount of treble rolled off in subsequent repeats. That being said, here's what I found -

The lowest value in the upper position that I found useable without producing any undesireable side effects was a 0.0018uF. When I dropped below that, the limitations of the PT2399 started to show. If you want the absolute cleanest sound delay available from the circuit, the 0.0018uF's in both positions is the way to go. The treble roll off is slight but noticeable in the initial and subsequent repeats but may be too clean or not "analog" enough for some. Personally I like it.

I think the best way to approach this is to install sockets on the PCB for the upper and lower cap positions, gather up two each of the values from 0.0018uF to 0.0027uF and start swapping. Try setting the upper position/initial repeat sound first. Start with the 0.0018uF, hit a note or chord and listen to that first repeat only. If you want to hear the biggest difference, replace it with a 0.0027uF and play the note/chorg again. Notice how much treble rolls off that first repeat. Once you get that where you want it, go through the same process with the lower cap. The lower value the cap in the lower position, the less treble roll off over the greater length of time. The higher the value, the faster the treble will roll off with each repeat. The ideal test situation would be to have two delay pedals side by side, one stock and one with socketed caps. In lieu of that I would strongly recommend a capacitor substitution box (last item on the page). For $16.99 you can't go wrong and it would undoubtedly come in handy for other projects. A possibly cool mod to the delay would be installing two switches...one that would allow you to set the roll off for the initial repeat and the other to set the roll off for subsequent repeats. I hope this helps out and if I was unclear during any part of this post please do not hesitate to ask questions.

Now on to figuring out how kill the switch pop in the delay! :wink:


skiraly017 wrote:
After playing with the treble roll off some more, my suggestion would be this. Replace the upper 0.0027uf with a DPDT on/on toggle with a 0.0018uF on one side and a 0.0027uF on the other. Replace the lower 0.0027uF with a 0.0022uF. To my ears this gives you the ability to switch between very nice clean(er) analog sounding repeats (0.0018uf + 0.0022uF) and darker sounding repeats (0.0027uF + 0.0022uF) where the treble rolls off quicker. The easiest way to hear the difference is to set the Delay and Blend all the way up and set the Repeats to the maximum before oscillation kicks in.


Which are the upper caps? I guess a pic would be a worth a thousand words ... and is this the original or ping pong delay?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 2:47 pm 
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This mod is referring to the old delay.
Image
The mod refers to C9 and C10 on the old PCB, with the "upper" being C10 and the "lower" being C9.

To transfer that over to the ping pong delay, the caps in questions would be C17/C18 and C29/C30. The "upper" C10 cap on the old PCB would correspond with C17 and C29, while the "lower" C9 cap would correspond with C18 and C30.
Image

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 12:21 pm 
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So what values are we talking on 17/18, 29/30 on the ping pong to get the same response?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 3:06 pm 
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wizard333 wrote:
So what values are we talking on 17/18, 29/30 on the ping pong to get the same response?

Same response as what? Both circuits use the same cap values, so any cap value suggested in the mod (as posted by skiraly) would be appropriate for the ping pong circuit as well.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 3:10 pm 
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Maybe I misunderstood............ the older circuit used one cap in each spot, the new one uses 2 in each spot, or is that not correct?

If that is correct, if I wanted the same effect as the .0022/.0022 combo would get from C9/10 on the original board, what would I use for c17/29 and 18/30 on the ping pong?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 3:42 pm 
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Ah - I see. The ping pong circuit is basically 2 of the old delay circuits on the same board. So, there are 2 "C9" positions and 2 "C10" positions, one for each separate circuit (the toggle switch on the ping pong circuit puts those 2 delay circuits into parallel or series operation). C9 on the old board corresponds with both C18 and C30, while C10 on the old board corresponds with both C17 and C29.

To do this mod on the new board, you'd want to replace all 4 caps (C17, 18, 29, & 30) with 0.0022uf. I'd suggest getting some socket strips and experimenting with different cap values (anything from 500pf to .0022) to find your personal setting.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 3:56 pm 
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Hi Fellows i just tryed the dual delay mod that Kahel come up with which is great & it works & sounds great but i have two slight problems.
when i switch from one delay setting to the other i get a switch pop sound in the delay .
and also the two LEDs work but when one is active (brightly lite) the other LED stays on but is real dim .
if i remove both LED grounds from the footswitch the switch pop is gone.
ive tried resistors in the LED line at both ends & still has the poping sound but only when switching from one delay setting to the other.
it appears that the wire coming from the repeat pot is getting enough ground signal through to just let the LED stay on but is dim.
any sugestions or ideas othere than usiing a 4PDT switch.
please email me at wireman1957@bellsouth.net as i dont get to visit here often.
Thanks
Dave!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 5:20 pm 
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Mod the buffer for more transparency: http://www.buildyourownclone.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=10185

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 12:23 pm 
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Hello everyone,

I'm a newbie here, and want to mod my BYOC delay with several nice features:

* spill-mod switch
* short/long delay time swith
* FX-loop

Morgan wrote:
And the ultimate...Kahel's Fully Loaded "Maelstrom" mods. Footswitch turns effects loop on/off and toggle switch to send either the wet or dry signal through the loop.

kahel wrote:
Delay build with an FX loop and a 4PDT to send either dry or wet through the loop.

Image

K


As I understand, it is possible to use the delay with, or without the fx-loop.
What I don't know (and could not find very clearly, excuse me if I did not use the search function well enough), is if I still can use the pedal in the fx-loop on stand alone base? Because I want to connect my flanger to it, but also use this flanger on stand alone base. Would be a pitty if I can only use it with the delay.

with regards,

Niels


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:08 pm 
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Hi Niels. The FX loop as Kahel has drawn it will allow you to use your flanger either with your delay or through the FX loop in the delay. SW2 is a footswitch that turns the loop on and off, but is only active when the delay is on. SW3 is a toggle switch that sends either the dry or wet signal through the FX loop. Bypassing the delay cuts the signal to whatever pedal is in the FX loop. So, if you connected your flanger in the FX loop, you only be able to use it when the delay was on.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:29 pm 
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Hello Morgan,

thanks for your reply. So the idea I had in mind is not going to work.
Probably will do only the spill mod + time switch.
A friend of mine just combined it with an older Ibanez DML pedal, works great!

Or just buy an EHX memory man deluxe..


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:47 pm 
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What would be needed to make the blend knob more effective on the ping pong delay? My original three knob BYOC delay was at unity gain half way up ... the ping pong almost needs to be maxed out for unity gain.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 11:16 am 
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gnugear wrote:
What would be needed to make the blend knob more effective on the ping pong delay? My original three knob BYOC delay was at unity gain half way up ... the ping pong almost needs to be maxed out for unity gain.

Change the value of R6 (the resistor that stands on end near the repeats pot). Making it smaller should do the trick; maybe somewhere from 4.7K to 8.2K.

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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 12:25 pm 
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here's your fun one:

i've got the old digital delay board, and will likely rehouse it soon to add the trailing repeats mod, but i wanna know if i can add a lowpass filter to the repeats...
so only high frequencies pass through and get delayed.
:)
thanks!

Trevor


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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 12:49 pm 
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You can just screw with the ones already in there instead of adding one. Start with replacing the upper .0027uF with a .001uF and the lower .0027uF with a 560pF - the smaller the cap in each position will cut more lows. You'll likely also be rewarded with slightly increased noise.

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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 6:40 pm 
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does the maelstrom mod work with the current delay kit?


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 10:59 pm 
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deathfaces wrote:
does the maelstrom mod work with the current delay kit?

Yes - although the connections to the board would be a little bit different.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 4:00 pm 
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Morgan wrote:
You can just screw with the ones already in there instead of adding one. Start with replacing the upper .0027uF with a .001uF and the lower .0027uF with a 560pF - the smaller the cap in each position will cut more lows. You'll likely also be rewarded with slightly increased noise.


well, i just changed the caps for the ones you suggested... the only thing it changed was the amount of high end and noise was present in the repeats. there was no change in the low end. i don't want to go smaller, because it'll only allow more noise in.
any other ideas?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 4:55 pm 
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Making those caps smaller actually removes low frequencies, thereby enhancing high frequencies already present in that signal. You had said that you wanted to make it so only high frequencies get delayed. Care to clarify a little more? You want the delays to be real tinny or something? Maybe I'm not quite understanding what you're going for.

I've had the best results getting less analog sounding delays by changing C9 and C10, as mentioned earlier. You can also change the values of C13 and C17 to affect the amount of lower frequencies in the delay line. C17 is the final low pass filter before the wet signal gets mixed back with the dry signal. So experiment with altering the value of C13 first and then maybe try C17 if you aren't getting what you're looking for. I've had some success with getting clearer repeats with something like .0082 µf in C13. Don't be afraid to go smaller than that.

Image

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 3:34 pm 
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Check out the instructions for the old fully loaded delay kit: http://buildyourownclone.com/pdf/Fully_Loaded_Delay.pdf

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 2:04 pm 
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Morgan wrote:
You should know, by now, that the BYOC delay is capable of self oscillation when the repeats knob is turned up really high. Wouldn't it be great if you could control that oscillation without having to bend over to manually adjust the knobs while you're trying to freak out the audience?

Well...you can!

This mod details how to install a momentary footswitch to throw the delay into wild oscillation only when you step on the button. The osc pot controls how quickly the delay will oscillate. And the second diagram details how to make the momentary switch into it's own box to save real estate on the main unit. Note that all wiring to off board components is the same as in the instructions except where shown in the diagrams.

Enjoy!

kahel wrote:
There's a secret trick to adding the mod in an external enclosure, and it involves parallel resistors. If you look at the diagram on the right, you'll recognize the 15k resistor, now bridging the ring and tip connectors. This makes the pedal work normally with no jack inserted. When you insert the jacks, the pot in the external enclosure will be in parallel with the 15k. Note that this also means that the external feedback pot is bigger:


[align=center]Image
[/align]
Some may ask why I've not drawn it with mono jacks, since I'm only using two of the lugs on the jacks. Well, you CAN use mono jacks, if you also use plastic washers and make absolutely sure that the jack metal isn't touching the enclosures anywhere.

K


Anyone have this SQL'd diagram saved locally that would mind a repost?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 2:10 pm 
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The diagram in your post is showing up for me; or is there a 2nd one I'm missing?

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