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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 11:26 pm 
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Hi guys! Hopefully you guys can help and I'll be as detailed as possible!

1. I just finished soldering up the pedal and tried testing it out and NO SOUND. Well of course I tried debugging. First I adjusted the trimpot and set it to the middle position. Heard some noise when I turned the pot but no guitar output. Then I adjusted volume knob and that definitely changed amplitude but no guitar output. The sustain knob provided the most noise when I turned it but no guitar output as well. Not sure what it could be but I'm sure it could be a number of reasons!

2 - 5: http://imgur.com/a/9UTbE

6. Bypass not working.

7. LED comes on.

9. Adapter is 9V I believe from Voodoo power supply that is used for all other pedals on board.

Thank you guys SO MUCH.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2017 8:24 am 
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Your wiring could be neater. Did you solder both the PCB and then the jacks and then soldered the wires together? That's asking for a bad connection. Unsolder all of that and use one wire per connection.
Your foot switch wiring could be neater too.

It's a process but when it's done it'll be great. You got this.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2017 11:01 am 
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Knight of Cups wrote:
....Your foot switch wiring could be neater too.

Indeed. Gloppy solder joints and protruding wire strands are never a good thing. And those splices in the jack wiring definitely have to go. I would echo Knight's recommendation that you redo your wiring....all of it. Take a look at the photo on page 6 of the Classic Compressor instructions--that's the model of wiring quality that you should be shooting for. It's true that a novice builder probably can't achieve that for awhile, but it's still the goal.

Here are some good references for your reading pleasure, with many helpful tips and techniques:

What good soldering should look like: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52211

Stephens Tips for a Successful Build: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6401

Prepping & wiring the footswitch: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=33293

Troubleshooting no bypass signal: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52785

Troubleshooting no effect signal: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188

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My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2017 10:51 pm 
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at the very least, insulate those splices with electrical tape and trim the two long footswitch leads that appear to be crossing on the PCB. there's a chance that might fix you up, at least temporarily. but the guys are right, you should probably just desolder, clean up, and redo all the wiring. get some solder wick or use a solder sucker to clean all the holes/terminals up after desoldering. Try not to heat any pad or footswitch lug for more than 5 seconds at a time... if you can't get them clean in 5 seconds, wait for it to cool before trying again or you could end up melting the footswitch or lifting pads on the board. good luck duder.

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Muad'zin wrote:
I want Pterodactyl sounds dammit, not a nice little analog sustain.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 4:10 am 
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Thanks so much guys! Great tips all around. I'm gonna go ahead and desolder everything this weekend and try to rewire using smaller wires. I don't have any heat shrink but I'll try to strip as little insulation as possible from the cabling before soldering and only use one cable per connection. Hopefully the footswitch and PCB cabling is better on the second go. Thanks and i'll keep this thread updated!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 12:24 pm 
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harryfliu wrote:
...I'm gonna go ahead and desolder everything this weekend and try to rewire using smaller wires. I don't have any heat shrink but I'll try to strip as little insulation as possible from the cabling before soldering and only use one cable per connection. Hopefully the footswitch and PCB cabling is better on the second go...

Best of luck with it. For myself, the key to making clean and trouble-free wire connections is in the wire prep: measure, strip, twist & tin. To elaborate on that a bit:

  • I assemble the populated PCB and all of the hardware into the enclosure and measure the needed lengths of wire from point to point, leaving a bit extra for insertion into the solder points. I usually figure 1/8" per connection to the PCB, footswitch and the DC jack, and 1/4" for the I/O jack tabs.
  • Once measured & cut, I then strip the wire ends per the lengths mentioned above.
  • Next, I twist the wire strands together as tightly as I can between thumb and forefinger. This is key to avoiding those trouble-making stray wire strands.
  • Lastly, I tin each twisted wire end with a small amount of solder, just enough to hold the strands together--the individual strands should still be visible after tinning.

Now you're ready to make your solder joints. Insert the stripped end into the eyelet, lug or tab right up to the start of the insulation, and solder from the opposite side. Make the solder joint as quickly as possible (speed comes with practice), which will avoid melting the insulation on the other side of the joint. Finish by trimming the wire end back to the top of the solder joint

I'm sure that there are other techniques that may be equally effective, but this sequence works well for me.

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My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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