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I'm not really sure where you're at now. What's going on now? Everything works for the most part now, but when you turn the blend knob full turn CW it cuts out?

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Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Yes exactly, it works completely fine until I get it fully CW, and then the signal peters out, not completely gone but like a tenth of the volume it was before fully blended

Does adjusting the trimpot have any effect on the volume with the blend knob full turn clockwise?

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Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

nope, no sound came out in any position of the trim pot

Can you please tell me what is printed on your 2N5457 JFETs? Exactly as it's printed, like this for example:

F92
2N5
457

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Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Or if you can get an up close and in focus pic, that would be good too.

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Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

both of them say:
2N
5457
T8730

I can't make out a few of the resistors in the upper right hand corner of the PCB because they are hiding behind electrolytic caps. Can you please double check that and make sure that you don't have the 470ohm and 470k resistors mixed up.

Then take voltage readings of all the pins on the op amp.

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Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

ok so the resistors are correct
I don't know how to label the pins, so ill just start with the ones one left of the notch top to bottom
4.70
4.70
4.69
9.38
4.64
4.86
4.69
then on the right of the notch top to bottom
4.70
4.70
4.64
0
4.22
5.13
5.12

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"It’s your soldering."

Pin1:4.70
Pin2:4.70
Pin3:4.69
Pin4:9.38
Pin5:4.64
Pin6:4.86
Pin7:4.69

Pin14:4.70
Pin13.70
Pin12:4.64
Pin11:0
Pin10:4.22
Pin9:5.13
Pin8:5.12

Those voltages are good. Do you have a signal tester?

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*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Unfortunately no I don’t

Not to worry! You can buy one HERE or make your own using the instructions linked on that page. It's a very simple device--basically just an instrument cable with the plug cut off of one end and replaced with a soldered-on alligator clip for the necessary ground connection, and a 0.1uf or larger capacitor, which blocks any DC voltage present at the test point. One lead of the cap is soldered to the "hot" wire of the cable, and the other lead becomes your "test probe." The remaining plug of the instrument cable goes into your amp, and you're ready to go.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

sounds easy enough, once I get it how do I use it to test the pedal?

Just follow the instructions that are on that page I linked. In a nutshell, you plug your guitar into the pedal input, have your pedal power source connected, and engage the footswitch. Leave the pedal's output jack empty. The test probe is then your "movable output," and will send any audio signal present at any point you test into your amp. Use the pedal schematic and labeled PCB diagram (see below) for guidance in tracing the signal path through the amp until you find where it's dropping out when the blend knob is full CW.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Hi again guys, unfortunately I’m completely circuit illiterate, I followed the path to r2 and then got lost. Also confused on why one leg of the resistors carries signal and one is dead? I know I’ve asked a lot already and I’m probably a bit of a pain in the ass, but if theres any other handy tips you guys could give me I’d certainly appreciate it. I’ve already gone and reflowed all my joints for a third time out of frustration, but no luck.

When signal goes into the - input of the op amp, this is called "inverting". IC1B and IC1D are examples of this. You will not hear any signal on the - pin of the op amp, so you will not hear any signal on the end of the resistor that is connected to the - pin. This is why you do not hear signal on the other end of R2.

IC1A and IC1C are examples of "non-inverting" op amp structures. You should be able to hear signal at the + pin of these.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com