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 Post subject: I think I have issues
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 9:45 pm 
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Hey guys,

New to the DIY scene here. So I just built a 2 knob compressor and I ran into a couple of issues during my build, perhaps you guys can help me trouble shoot this. So the first issue I had was a 10n capacitor lose a lead. I just jammed it back in there and hoped for the best. Next, I put my 8-pin socket in backwards and couldn’t get it out. Can I get by with orienting the chip to line up with the socket or should I spin it 180 degrees? Lastly, my trim pot came apart as I was “dialing it in”. I can still manipulate the pot but it doesn’t look good.

The pedal turns on, lights up but I don’t get any signal unless I hit the foot switch to turn it off.

Any help is appreciated,

BrokenComp


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2021 7:22 am 
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Hi, and welcome to the forum. We'll be glad to help you get your problem sorted out. I've got a few direct responses for you, but first, two general things:

1. We'll need to see a photo of the top side of the board, as well as your wiring.

2. We need all photos to be quite a lot larger than the one you've posted. We've got to be able to see little details in how the solder joints are formed and which components are placed in each spot on the board. If you need help uploading better photos, just let us know.

OK, specific responses to your questions:

Bustedcomp wrote:
a 10n capacitor lose a lead. I just jammed it back in there and hoped for the best.
This probably didn't work. It's possible there was enough lead to make contact with the PCB eyelet, but that's not going to make the electrical connection solidly enough for the pedal to work consistently. You either need to find a way to get some bit of that lead soldered, or you need to replace the capacitor. Can you show a photo of this cap and how it's connected?

Bustedcomp wrote:
Next, I put my 8-pin socket in backwards and couldn’t get it out. Can I get by with orienting the chip to line up with the socket or should I spin it 180 degrees?
No problem with the socket going in backwards; it just conducts down to the PCB. The IC definitely needs to be oriented correctly, though, so be super careful and double-check when you install it. Maybe even mark that socket somehow to remind yourself, in case you need to remove the IC and reinstall it later.

Bustedcomp wrote:
Lastly, my trim pot came apart as I was “dialing it in”. I can still manipulate the pot but it doesn’t look good.
Define "came apart": did you rotate it too far, and it snapped? Did the legs twist off? If a close-up photo would show the damage, please provide one.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2021 10:31 am 
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sjaustin wrote:
...The IC definitely needs to be oriented correctly, though, so be super careful and double-check when you install it.

Just because I'm anal-retentive about clarity, I just want to add that the correct orientation is shown by the silkscreen outline on the PCB. As Scott says, the orientation of the socket itself doesn't matter--it's just a pass-through connector that makes the IC easily removeable. The notch on one end is just there as a visual cue....one that you should ignore since you mounted it the opposite way!

P.S. Most of us "have issues" around here! :wink: :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2021 6:01 pm 
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Ah you guys are the best. I had a feeling it was my capacitor. Here’s those candid shots of ma pot.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2021 8:05 pm 
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Three words re: your photos. Way. Too. Small. Just can't see enough in those shots to be able to provide much if any help.

We need to be able to see detail--lots of it. Here's an idea of the kind of photo we love to see. We don't often see this degree of size, clarity and illumination, but this is what to shoot for:

viewtopic.php?p=482910#p482910

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 12:55 pm 
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Is this better?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 2:55 pm 
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Yes, much better. Thank you.

I would recommend that you:

  • Replace the trimpot and the 10nf cap. Pedal kits are challenging enough for novices to build successfully without questionable parts!
  • Work through this process: http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/vi ... =9&t=52188 And when it says to reflow all of your solder joints, that's exactly what it means--ALL of them, including the pot lugs and all wire connections at both ends. It only takes one wonky solder joint in the wrong place to render a pedal mute.

Additionally, here are a couple useful informational posts to read through, if you haven't already:

http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/vi ... f=9&t=6401

http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/vi ... =9&t=52211

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 7:23 pm 
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Much obliged kind sir!


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2021 11:52 am 
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Ah, so YOU'RE the one who bought the last compressor... thanks a lot.... :lol: :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2021 6:21 pm 
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I DID buy that last comp and now does she sound good. Thanks for all of the help! It was definitely a fun build and I’m going build something else real soon.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 8:06 am 
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Bustedcomp wrote:
I DID buy that last comp and now does she sound good. Thanks for all of the help! It was definitely a fun build and I’m going build something else real soon.

I hope you become a forum regular, if for no other reason than it would be fun to see an experienced builder showing off impressive builds with the name "Bustedcomp"! :mrgreen:

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