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PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2017 4:58 pm 
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Hello guys, i'm currently having some issues with my echo royal. I cannot hear my guitar sound through the pedal, I only hear the reps of the guitar signal. In addition, a weird background noise appear if i turn the mix knob up, something like a "FFFFFFFFFFFFFFF". And it seems that the reps builds up on that noise. Apart from that, the pedal seems to work flawlessly. Here are some pics of my build :

https://ibb.co/hE5frv

https://ibb.co/jkHtBv

The cable of the right footswitch is broken on the pic. It has happened while I have flipped the PCB over in order to take the pics. Plus the led are not in the right direction, but I will fix this when the build will actually be working as intended since they were doing ok as far as I know


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2017 6:15 pm 
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Hi - welcome tot he forum! :D

Do you get any guitar signal from the dry output jack?

EDIT: you must get guitar through the dry jack if you're getting signal into the delay path. And I'm assuming you have signal in bypass.

Follow the instructions in this post: http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188

It is likely a bad connection near the mix pot or somewhere between along the dry signal path between C7 and C20.

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 3:15 am 
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Well , I took the time to redo my solders in this area as you said, plugged in, and it hasn't fixed the issue. But I took the time to troubleshoot this a bit further :

-When the pedal-to-amp cable is plugged in the mix output, I have no issue whatsoever when the pedal is bypassed, but only the reps and no original guitar sound when the pedal is on
-When this same cable is plugged into the dry output, the overall volume is dropped, whether the pedal is bypassed or not
-The reps knob behavior is suspicious : if it is turned fully counter-clockwise, there's a strange electric background noise, which disappears if I turn it up a bit. But if I keep turning this pot up, the aformentionned weird distortion appears and keeps getting louder and louder. It seems that the reps build up on this distortion. The sweet spot where I have no noise/distortion is somewhere like 9 o'clock


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 11:44 am 
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If you have volume parity issues, the most likely cause is that you have two or more resistor values mixed up. I can't really see well enough from your pic to check. You probably still have a cold solder joint somewhere if you aren't getting the dry signal path in the mix. Your wiring looks suspect. I see a lot of frayed strands.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 5:57 am 
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Well, after checking the components, I realized that I have mixed up a resistance and a film capacitor, the number 473 that goes below the PCB. I have fixed this, and realized in the meanwhile that another resistance was not where it should be : the 4k7 was next to the bypass LED while it is supposed to be a 47k resistance there. So I fixed that as well. I took the time to re-solder pretty much everything, and I also have checked the pots connections with a ohm-meter. Everything was fine, but I now have an other issue :(

When I plug the pedal, I just have no sound whatsoever when it is bypassed. When the pedal is on, I have the dry signal, but no reps at all. The dry signal get a bit quieter if I turn the mix knob up. The others knobs appears to have no effect on the sound. If I use the dry output of the pedal, the volume is just low, wether the pedal is bypassed or not.

So here is a pic of the solder side of my PCB
https://ibb.co/h4dpm5

And three pics in close up of the components side of the PCB, going from left to right
https://ibb.co/j7PC65
https://ibb.co/jjUC65
https://ibb.co/dgbLtk

I also have one 474 film capacitor left, as well as the misplaced 4k7 resistance, a 12k resistance and a 18k resistance. They are for modding purpose, right?
https://ibb.co/f8DKKQ


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 10:39 am 
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karish63 wrote:
I also have one 474 film capacitor left, as well as the misplaced 4k7 resistance, a 12k resistance and a 18k resistance. They are for modding purpose, right?

These are updated components as explained in the instructions for resistor (pg 8) and cap placement (pg 12). The 474 is for C8, 4K7 for R42, 18K for R22, and 12K for R18.

http://byocelectronics.com/echoroyalinstructions.pdf

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 8:55 am 
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Well , my pedal is still not working, so I started to check the pcb with the multimeter. By using my OhmMeter set on 20000k and mesuring between the in jack and the bypass footswitch, I had no signal going through, but mesuring right after the C1 capacitor to the FT gave me roughly 10.000k on the multimeter. I decided to mesure the capacitor resistance and continuity and I just had a 1 being shown on the multimeter. Would this capacitor be the problem?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 1:43 pm 
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byoc wrote:
If you have volume parity issues, the most likely cause is that you have two or more resistor values mixed up. I can't really see well enough from your pic to check. You probably still have a cold solder joint somewhere if you aren't getting the dry signal path in the mix. Your wiring looks suspect. I see a lot of frayed strands.

I agree with byoc. If you are unable to identify any more misplaced resistors, your soldering still can use improvement. Especially the wire joints. Symptoms like this are most often caused by a misplaced component or a bad solder joint.

Here are a couple more posts to help with soldering technique. Not how Stephen tins his wire before making the solder joint. This is very important.

http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6401

http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52211

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 1:49 pm 
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karish63 wrote:
Well , my pedal is still not working, so I started to check the pcb with the multimeter. By using my OhmMeter set on 20000k and mesuring between the in jack and the bypass footswitch, I had no signal going through, but mesuring right after the C1 capacitor to the FT gave me roughly 10.000k on the multimeter. I decided to mesure the capacitor resistance and continuity and I just had a 1 being shown on the multimeter. Would this capacitor be the problem?

The bypass switch is not in the signal path, so measuring resistance from the input jack to the bypass switch will not provide you with any information. And measuring the resistance of a capacitor also does not give very much information (the resistance should be several megaohms).

I think your issue likely has to do with a bad solder joint. Another thing you can try is to clean the solder-side of the pcb with some alcohol and an old toothbrush to clean off the flux and solder splatter.

If you'd like to trace the signal path, a BYOC signal tester is an excellent troubleshooting tool.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 2:55 pm 
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Ok, thank you, I will have a look at these post and fix my build accordingly. I will keep you updated


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:29 am 
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Ok, I have fixed most of my solders according to the two linked posts, and the pedal is nearly working properly. I say nearly because if the delay knob is turned fully clockwise, a background noise appears and build up over time, what could be the problem? Plus I think the division knob is not working properly, as I could not get sixteenth notes when it was fully turned clockwise, only triplets. I have heard also some distortion on the reps, but it was not on a regular basis

There's also a thing that intrigate me : the attack of the sound seems to be emphasized in the reps, is this a feature of the pedal or an other thing going wrong in my PCB?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 12:04 pm 
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karish63 wrote:
Ok, I have fixed most of my solders according to the two linked posts, and the pedal is nearly working properly. I say nearly because if the delay knob is turned fully clockwise, a background noise appears and build up over time, what could be the problem?

This sounds normal to me. The PT2399 delay chips are not very high fidelity, with more noise associated with longer delay times. It is common to hear a good amount of digital "hash" in the background when the delay level is turned up to maximum.

karish63 wrote:
Plus I think the division knob is not working properly, as I could not get sixteenth notes when it was fully turned clockwise, only triplets.

Is it possible to record a quick youtube video showing this?

karish63 wrote:
There's also a thing that intrigate me : the attack of the sound seems to be emphasized in the reps, is this a feature of the pedal or an other thing going wrong in my PCB?

This is probably the sound of the compander (compressor/expander) in the circuit.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 3:28 pm 
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Morgan wrote:
Is it possible to record a quick youtube video showing this?

I will do that ASAP and upload it here


Morgan wrote:
This is probably the sound of the compander (compressor/expander) in the circuit.

Is there any way to reduce the attack time of the compressor? The thing is because of this very prononced attack, the reps are too noticeable and they don't blends nicely into the guitar sound


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 5:05 pm 
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No. It's all about the blend control. Blending dry signal in reduces the attack of the wet signal. I've been inside of just about every vintage analog delay pedal out there; that's a very common trait of the straight wet sound - a hellacious attack. Some folks tend to go a little too heavy on the wet signal level. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2017 7:37 am 
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Here is a video of the problem. As first and foremost, the tap tempo does not work perfectly : it feels like the recorded tempo is slower than what I have actually tap, hence the fact that the triplet division is a bit slow compare to the recorded tempo, and the sixteenth notes being definitely too slow for the recorded tempo. This issue doesnt seems to appear on the quarter note division, as well as the eight and dotted eight division.

I would like to add a detail : my blends pot is a bit scratchy, something that I have tried to show in the video but the noise is too quiet to be heard on the footage. What could be the origin of that?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 4:50 pm 
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Sounds good to me. You can even hear you saying "one trip let two trip let" and it seemed to match. And when I count one e and a two e and a three e and a four it seemed to match as well on the quarter note division. Keep in mind that it only takes two taps, so if your last tap isn't perfectly on beat, it doesn't matter what you count prior to that. Get a metronome and try it.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 4:19 pm 
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Do you mean that, unlike most of the tap tempo I have encountered, adding tap does not make the average recorded tempo more accurate to what has been tapped before? Just tapping two beat would (and should) be enough to get what i'm looking for? If that's the case, then good enough , the pedal works fine and I can now get some rest :p


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 10:27 am 
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karish63 wrote:
Do you mean that, unlike most of the tap tempo I have encountered, adding tap does not make the average recorded tempo more accurate to what has been tapped before? Just tapping two beat would (and should) be enough to get what i'm looking for? If that's the case, then good enough , the pedal works fine and I can now get some rest :p


Yes. You only need to tap it twice. If you tap it more than twice, the time is set by the length between the last two taps.

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