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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 3:40 am 
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Hello all

I have only built 3 other pedals so I'm still very much a newbie. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

All LED's behave as they should. I can set the tempo with the tap and also with the delay time. I can see that the modulation and reps have an affect on the top right had corner LED light. Bypass works too. If I turn my blend knob to 100% I get no volume, and vice versa (0% = full volume).

I initially had 2 IC's in the wrong sockets, and also had one IC upside down. My limited knowledge says this shouldn't have caused any damage etc, but thought it would be worth mentioning.

Uploaded photos to imgur
https://imgur.com/a/YlwH6f4


Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 4:13 am 
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Which ICs did you install backwards? If you installed a dual op-amp backwards I guarantee it’s now toast.

You need to cut off ALL of the component lead sticking out of the top of your solder joints. These are all short circuit risks.

Be sure to insulate the backs of all the pots to prevent them from shorting out against any solder joints beneath them.

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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 4:56 am 
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I had the 4558 and the TL072 in each other's sockets, but installed the right way up. I had the left PT2399 upside down...does that mean it's now toast or is that not a dual op-amp?

Will go through and cut off any component lead as suggested.

For insulating I was gonna see where I can get more of those plastic covers the B10K has. Is there any other method to insulate?

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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 5:44 am 
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The 4558 and TL072 are the dual op-amps. They are housed in what is known as an 8-pin DIP (Dual Inline Package) ICs. The larger ICs have their pins laid out in such a way that it doesn’t reverse their power connections when you install them backwards so they should be OK.

To insulate the pots you can use a couple layers of electrical tape. I use little nickel and dime sized plastic stick-on discs I get from Lowes. They’re in the aisle where they keep things like “chair glides”. There’s also what members here on the forum call pot condoms. Do a quick search here on the forum to see those. They’re essentially the same thing as what your B10K pot has.

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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2018 12:30 am 
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Cool, thanks for that info.

Still haven't been able to get it to work.

Back when I had messed something up and was desoldering something, I accidentally scratched the back of the PCB, I can't remember if it was with my soldering iron or with a different tool, but the scratch goes across multiple paths, all of which are connected to the 16F684 IC. Could it be that? If it is that, is my board completely screwed?

https://imgur.com/N7nE2gU

Gonna go through and reflow my solder joints as suggested here:
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188


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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2018 11:10 am 
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I would be flabbergasted if that little scratch did any real damage--those traces really aren't very easy to cut at all.

While you're re-flowing solder joints, I'd recommend trimming off the component lead ends down to the tops of their respective joints, since they can sometimes cause power or signal shorts.

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My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2018 10:13 am 
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The wet signal path is pretty long and goes through a lot of components. A signal tester is really the best tool for this job. Without it, the best we can really tell you is reflow all your solder joints. If that doesn't help, you can pull out all the ICs and jumper their ins and outs and try to track it down that way, assuming it's problem with an IC.

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Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 12:13 am 
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Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions. I FINALLY got it working, so very happy. Reflowed all the solder, got some plastic bits to stop any shorts from occurring from the potentiometers. So happy it's working now :)


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