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 Post subject: Classic Delay problem
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 12:12 pm 
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Hi there! I have a problem with my Classic Delay, when off the signal pass through, but when I turn it on there is no signal, no led, nothing. I revised the soldering but still, same result. I add a couple of pictures to see if anybody sees what I'm missing. Thanks in advance, cheers!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 12:21 pm 
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I don't see anything in particular. The LED not turning on indicates that power is not getting to the PCB, the LED burnt out, or a ground wiring issue.

While you have the PCB out of the enclosure, do this: http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188

Then reinstall the DC adapter, following these tips: http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52139

Let us know how it goes.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 12:35 pm 
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Hi Morgan. Actually I already reflowed the solder joints but anything changed.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 1:06 pm 
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Do you have access to a multimeter and know how to measure DC voltage with one?

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 1:22 pm 
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I do have access to one but honestly i have no clue how to use it. Any link where I can see how to apply it in this situation?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 1:55 pm 
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Take readings from all pins of IC1 (pin 8 = about 9 volts, pin 4 = 0 volts, the rest should be around 4.5), IC2 pin 1 (5 volts), and the stripped side of D1.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 2:37 pm 
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Amazing info Morgan! And easy to see. Well, the readings for the IC1, all of them are 0.01 volts but pin 4 that gave me 0.00. IC 2 pin 1 and D1 gave me 0 volts. Just to check I read the wire from the battery and gave me 9.5 volts. :S


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 5:00 pm 
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Post a photo clearly showing the connections to your power jack please.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 6:43 pm 
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I don't have it connected to the power jack since the pcb is out of the box. I was powering it with a 9v battery, but issue is the same. Shall I connect it to the power jack? Would that change anything?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 8:15 pm 
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The battery connection goes through the DC jack! You need to connect it for the circuit to get power.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 8:28 am 
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Damn it, it though it was a possibility but I wasn't sure about that, sorry, I'm such a noob. Tomorrow I'll connect it at let you all know. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 1:56 pm 
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Juanfer wrote:
....I'm such a noob.

As were we all at some point! :mrgreen:

BTW, when you connect it, be sure to avoid this common mistake: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52139

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 7:03 am 
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Hi guys! I connected the power jack as shown in the link and here are the new readings. For the IC1, pins 1, 2, 6 & 7 is 0.30 volts. Pin 3 4.30, pin 4 0.00, pin 5 4.73 and pin 8 9.50 volts. The IC2 pin 1 is 0.00 volts. D1 is 9,50 volts.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 11:03 am 
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Pins 1, 2, 6 & 7 on IC1 are all way too low; as Morgan mentioned, they should read right about 1/2 of your power source voltage, as pins 3 & 5 do.

Do you have another dual op amp available in another pedal that is socketed and could easily be pulled out and installed in the IC1 position of the delay? Doesn't have to be a TL072. A 4558, NE5532, TL082, OPA2134A, or the like would work fine. Just need to confirm that you don't have a bad IC there.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 11:25 am 
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There are multiple problems. You should also have 5 volts at pin 1 of IC2. Remove the chip and try taking the voltage straight from the socket. If it’s still low, check the voltage regulator voltages (looks like a transistor).

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 8:40 pm 
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Hi guys, reads from the sockets are the same as with the ICs on. From the voltage regulator i got 9.5 volts from the lower leg, and 0 volts from the upper leg (the closest to the input jack). I couldn't reach the leg in the middle.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 12:21 pm 
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Your voltage readings suggest you don't have any ground connection. Do you have a plug inserted into the input jack. You need a plug in the input jack to turn the pedal on.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 1:27 pm 
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Yes I do! I always measured it with the input plugged.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 2:59 pm 
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Do you get continuity between the center leg of the voltage regulator and the negative terminal of the dc adapter jack?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 3:01 pm 
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The solder joints on your jacks don't look good. They need more heat. It's not just a matter of melting the solder. It's about getting the jack terminal hot enough so that the solder actually adheres to it.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 3:16 pm 
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Hi! Both center leg and negative terminal give me 0 volts. I'll do as you suggested with the jacks.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 5:31 am 
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Hi again! I did as you said with the jacks but problem remains the same. Any idea about it? Thanks a lot to you all for your time!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 10:13 am 
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The integrity of your solder joints is still a concern. I suggest you remove your chips from the sockets and reflow all joints again. It often can take a few reflows to correct an undetected solder joint.

Have a look at Stephen's post below and please provide an updated photo of the solder side of the PCB when you've reflowed again.

http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52211

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 10:55 am 
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Ok, I'll have some time in a couple of days. As soon as I'm done, I'll update with new pictures. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 9:54 am 
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Juanfer wrote:
Hi! Both center leg and negative terminal give me 0 volts. I'll do as you suggested with the jacks.



You don't want to measure voltage. It can still give you 0v reading if there's no continuity. You want to set your meter for continuity and test. It will be the little "horn" or "louder" symbol. The fact that your regulator is getting voltage at the input but nothing at the output suggest that you don't have the common connected to ground.

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