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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 11:04 am 
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Hello, all! So I've just completed my fifth BYOC build, and I'm really loving them all so far but I've got an issue with my Echo Royal: When I click the effect on the dry signal cuts out for a moment, and when I click it off the dry signal is boosted way loud for a moment. In addition, there's a slight volume drop in the dry signal when the effect is on, regardless of how I have the mix knob (unless I have the dry signal turned down overall, in which case it operates properly).

Page 7 of the PDF instructions has a list of mods for the resistors, and I actually had to do each of them due to the resistors included in the kit. I have no idea what they do, but could that be related to my issues? Attached is a pic of her guts. Thanks!

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EchoRoyalGutsLowerRes.jpg
EchoRoyalGutsLowerRes.jpg [ 640.58 KiB | Viewed 419 times ]


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 11:17 am 
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I should add that the effects, switches, knobs and LEDs work perfectly


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 4:13 pm 
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Can we see the bottom of the PCB, please?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 8:22 pm 
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Easier said than done :mrgreen:
(Please let me know if you have any tips on getting everything back in the enclosure. With every build I've had some trouble getting the LEDs to line up and fit since they require some force to get in, while getting everything else to line up. This one was especially tough!)

Let me know if there are any additional/better angles that might help. Thanks so much!!!

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EchoGuts2LowRes.jpg
EchoGuts2LowRes.jpg [ 580.09 KiB | Viewed 391 times ]


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 10:20 am 
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It looks pretty good. I wanted to see the bottom because you have a few blobs where you used too much solder on the top. You should reflow all your solder joint. You likely have a poor connection to one of the switching JFETs.

If your LEDs are a tight fit, you can try reaming their holes out a little bit. A step bit is really nice to use. If you go at it from the inside of the enclosure, it will add a slight bevel that makes it easier to get the LED in the hole and you can't see it from the outside. You don't need to use a drill. You can do it by hand.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:11 pm 
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Cool, I'll do that, thanks! Should I just go over each of the solder joints again with the iron itself from the bottom?

Also, is there a particular size range of step bit that you'd recommend?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 3:10 pm 
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The 1/2" UniBit will have you covered for everything pedal-related.

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-Unib ... B00004THYX

FWIW, I've used other brands that are cheaper. Nothing I've used stays as sharp for as long as the Irwin Unibit. If you only ever use it on soft aluminum alloys, it might last a lifetime. Even in mild steel, they're good for hundreds of holes. The weak point (literally) is the tip... it'll dull and wear out first. I like to lay out and drill all my holes with a cheap 1/8" bit for pilot holes, then chase them with the unibit. Go slow, let the bit do the work, and your holes shouldn't wander much.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 4:14 am 
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GregTurrigenous wrote:
Cool, I'll do that, thanks! Should I just go over each of the solder joints again with the iron itself from the bottom?

Yep. Touch the iron tip to the solder joint until the solder melts. Lift it, let the joint freeze again, and move on to the next one. Tin and clean the tip as necessary. The whole thing should only take a few minutes, even on a large board like this.

It’s a good idea to remove ICs from their sockets first to avoid damaging them with the heat. (Just don’t forget to put them back in when you’re done!)

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 9:32 pm 
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Let me start with the good: the step bit trick worked wonders! Putting the unit back together was a cinch thanks to the LEDs going nicely into place. Thanks!

Sadly, the pedal is functioning the exact same way after reflowing every joint. Got rid of some of those blobbier instances, but there's absolutely no difference (it's a shame because I really wanted to swap out my DD3: this is the last pedal on my gigging board (besides the tuner) that's not a BYOC).

Could it just be a faulty switch? :? Any other ideas are certainly welcome.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 11:03 am 
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The foot switch doesn't really have that much to do with the actual switching. The foot switch sends a low signal to the microcontroller. The microcontroller then sends a high signals to the various JFETs telling them to either open or close. It is the JFETs that do the actual signal switching.

It's difficult to say what your problem is, based on your description. The dry signal cutting out briefly could be explained by a problem with the microcontroller or maybe the debounce capacitor to Q7. But I don't know how to explain the brief volume boost. I think the best course of action is to remove all the JFETs and use jumpers to hardwire the pedal in "on" and get the dry signal up to where it's supposed to be.

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=39391 There's a PCB map for the Echo Royal here. Scroll down a little bit.

Remove Q5, 6, 7, and 8. Hardwire the pedal in "on" by placing jumpers in Q5, 6, and 8 (but not Q7). You make a jumper by connecting the center eyelet (the Source) of the JFET to the top eyelet (the Drain). You leave the bottom eyelet (the Gate) empty.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 12:26 pm 
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Sorry if I'm missing something obvious, but would hard wiring the pedal "on" make the effect always on? Also, when I refer to the dry signal, I mean coming out of the effect out of the pedal - I'm not using the dry out at all; not sure if that was clear.

I know that one mod had something to do with preventing noise when switching the effect on, so might swapping the .47µF capacitor at C8 back to a .047µF fix the issue?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 3:20 pm 
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Yes. That would make it always on.

I assumed you were talking about the dry signal that makes up the wet/dry mix, not the dedicated dry out. By removing the JFETs, (which could be having an effect on the wet/dry mix), it will make it easier to isolate the problem.

You're certainly welcome to try changing C8 back to a .047uF. If your problem is at the wet/dry mix, then I don't think it will help.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2018 9:09 pm 
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An update, hopefully final, for anyone curious or having similar problems:

Turning the pedal to a constant "on" state wouldn't help me address my main issue so I decided messing with C8, which seems to be the culprit for those on/off issues (which, frankly, were much more annoying than the very slight overall signal loss).

I first replaced the .47µ at C8 with the .047µ capacitor, and there was then a harsh signal boost at both turning the effect on AND off (although now very brief). So I used some very rudimentary logic and figured since I was getting a total momentary signal loss at .47, and a strange boost at .047, I should choose something in between. I settled on a .1µ cap, and that split the difference: there's a very slight noise when I turn the effect on and a very quick boost when turning off, but nowhere near the dealbreaker cut and boost levels and duration I was getting with the original .47µ.

The final test will be at rehearsal this coming tuesday: At home I'm just using the pedal directly into a 1w Blackstar with a clean tone at bedroom levels, but in the studio it'll sit in the FX loop of my 100w Laney at playing-with-drummer levels so any weirdness should be much more apparent.

As for the overall dry signal loss, I'm not noticing it anymore at home but I might at studio loudness. I again reflowed some of the possibly suspect connections near the JFETs so maybe that fixed it?

Thanks again for all the help!


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 10:03 pm 
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:(
At rehearsal volume and in the FX loop the dry signal volume drop is still noticeable, and the boost when the effect is turned off is at an unacceptable level. The only problem solved was the signal cut when turning the effect on. Eventually I'll probably bypass the JFETs to try and isolate the dry mix issue, but since I have no clue about the on/off issues this pedal will gather dust for now. :cry:


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