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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 11:02 am 
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Just fired it up for the first time. Everything seemed ok at first. LED came on, sound in bypass, but then when I turned on, LED came on and volume dropped a ton. Also heard no effect. Then I realized the IC's were not in :)

Installed the IC's, and now the LED doesn't come on, and there is no sound. I'll upload pictures after I disassemble in a bit. I plan on reflowing the whole board and touching up some, as well.

Thanks for any ideas.


Image
Image


Last edited by e4mafia on Thu Dec 20, 2018 1:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 12:41 pm 
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No ideas until photos are uploaded. Speculation at this point will only lead to confusion. Make sure they are well lit and a good size. Don't forget to include both sides of the board as well as any wiring.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 10:36 am 
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Everybody forgets to install the ICs at one time or another.

Reflowing the joints is definitely a wise decision and it looks like you have some long leads on the bottom side of the board; you'll want to trim those up.

You have the sockets oriented correctly, but are your ICs installed in the correct positions and oriented properly as well?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 11:29 am 
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Frag beat me to the question I was going to ask: double check the IC orientation in the sockets. Not sure what the ICs would have to do with the LED, though.

Also, it's difficult to check your resistor values because the image is out of focus at the board level. (Tops of the electrolytic caps are in focus.) If you shoot another one in brighter light, your depth of field will be greater. That said, my eyes aren't great with color, especially on these 1/8W resistors. So someone else might be able to check them for you.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 2:55 pm 
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Made some small progress. Still working on getting some better pictures for you guys - I reflowed everything I could reach, and clipped many of the leads very close to flush w/ the solder. Was still working in bypass, like before, but had the same issue when on. No light, no sound. After a bit I realized the battery was VERY hot, so I disconnected it suspecting a short. Played around with things a bit, and seated the board in the box very loosely, nothing screwed in on the pots the top, and then got an intermitted on/off of the LED when in on mode, and a faint clicking as it happened. if I tilted the board into a tighter position, the light would cut out along with the clicks. I'm suspecting that was a short, and that perhaps the intermittent is due to some intermittent short? Seemed odd to be so consistent (not perfect, but pretty close to rhythmic) on the flicker though.

I'll post new pictures soon I hope
(I also checked the orientation of all the ICs in the sockets, and they look ok. Maybe I had it wrong before, but they're good now.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 3:00 pm 
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Check your power jack wiring - that hot battery is a short for sure.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 4:14 pm 
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CaptainPeyote wrote:
Check your power jack wiring - that hot battery is a short for sure.

^ This!

Also check your solder pads on the electrolytic caps. These often have one side at source voltage and the other side at ground, so if you have a solder bridge between them, it's a dead short to ground. It's also possible to get a solder short in between the bottom of the electrolytic and the PCB, if you're a little overzealous with the solder. So checking the two pads on the solder side of the board for continuity with a multimeter is a good idea.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2018 11:20 am 
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Pulled the pots off to get a better view -
Image

Image

Hopefully these are more clear. Also, I noticed that the low volume clicking (which is the only sound it makes) tracks in speed with the position of the left knob. Not sure which one that is.

-Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2018 1:10 pm 
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Places like these look solder starved.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2018 3:39 pm 
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Thanks! I'll reflow and add a touch.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 11:22 am 
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Added some solder, but now it doesn't come on at all. Any guidance on voltage checks on the signal path? I'll take some readings for general power, but wondering what I should expect along the signal path on the "in/out" points.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 12:16 pm 
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I should have noticed this before, but none of the IC's are mounted in their correct locations in your most recent component-side photo. This could easily be the cause of your power/shorting problems. It's very possible that one or more of the IC's is burned out and shorting internally. I would suggest removing all of them from the PCB and try applying power in that condition. See if the LED comes on and if the battery remains cool. If this happens, then you know that you got rid of the short and it's in one of the IC's. I would then try adding them back individually and see which one causes the LED to go out and the battery to warm up. If you can pin down the culprit this way, then you can get a replacement IC from BYOC or another source.

Here's the IC installation diagram from the AC 3.1 instructions. The IC's must be installed per the labeling on the PCB silkscreen for the circuit to work:

Attachment:
AC_v.3.1_PCB.jpg
AC_v.3.1_PCB.jpg [ 104.52 KiB | Viewed 5875 times ]

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 1:50 pm 
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Sweet googly moogly. I had been blindly assuming that all 4 ICs were the same. Perhaps I saw a schematic out there once that called for that unrelated to this board. Time to actually go look at the labeling on them!
Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 2:08 pm 
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What a difference!
Power on, sound, chorus-y effect. Led does flicker in time with the oscillation of the effect though. Seems like the left knob is acting a bit more like a tremolo effect. the frequency gets pretty damn high when rotated right, and I can't really hear any effect on the right knob. This is definitely huge progress though, thanks! I'll record a little video and share so you can hear and see what I mean.


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