Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hello!

I have a 99% working Analog Chorus except for the LED. I seem to have stripped an eyelet when correcting some bad soldering. I think the best solution is a jumper connection and read a post on a different thread for a similar issue. I tried to figure out where that would be made and to what connections. But, I'm a little lost.

Can someone point me in the right direction on how to make this effective jumper connection and how to problem solve that issue in the future if I run across it again?

Thank you!

(Disclaimer: I don't have one of these here to test for sure.) Looking at p. 11 of the instructions, which shows the underside of the PCB, you should be able to see the traces (the slightly raised channels between eyelets) that make the connections. Once you've done that, you just have to be careful to flip it in your mind when you make the jumper connections.

You could also dry fit the LED to the proper depth, bend the leads to mark that depth, and then solder it from the other side of the board, where the eyelets are probably still intact.

_________________
Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Actually, for your particular case, you may need to do nothing other than reapply solder to each lead. I say this because, assuming I see the problem correctly, it appears that you stripped off one or both of the solder pads on the top (component) side of the PCB. However, the trace connections for both of those eyelets are on the back (solder) side of the board. And since BYOC uses through-eyelets on their PCBs--i.e. a tubular metal sleeve extends through the eyelet hole and connects to the solder pads on each side--I would be very surprised if you did so much damage that you pulled those out along with the pads. If I'm right, if you apply molten solder to each LED lead, it should flow down the lead and connect to those eyelet sleeves, completing the necessary connections. I would definitely try that first. Just don't apply too much solder, since it really shouldn't take any more than the usual joint.

If that doesn't work, the problem is still quite easily solved. Take a look at the diagram of the back of the marked up AC 3.1 PCB (pg. 11 of the AC instructions) that I've attached below. Though the contrast isn't very good, you can still make out the PCB traces connecting the LED pads to adjacent solder joints. If the eyelets are damaged to the point that one or both of the trace connections have been broken, then you would need to solder a short piece of wire or a component lead clipping (this is what I would use for these short runs) to connect those adjacent solder joints to the respective LED leads. These connections are shown in yellow on the diagram, though you should keep these jumpers short & straight. Just "tack solder" the leads to each connection point. I have made many repairs of this type over the years and have never had one let go later.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I did end up making two jump connections. The eyelets were stripped off both sides. This explanation worked perfectly and now I can actually tell when the pedal is on.

So really for a jumper, you're just looking for the next connection point from the damaged area along that trace? That seems straight forward enough for any future issues.

You got it, and yep—very handy trick. It's a rite of passage for all of us to make our first such repair.

_________________
Scott

My band, Austin Hollow