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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 10:51 am 
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New builders to the Delay can use these pictures as a guideline when building their's for the first time. Orientations of the IC's, regulator and the electrolytic caps can be seen.

First picture is the Delay board populated with only resistors, and the PT2399 IC chip. The socket has been soldered to the board, but not the IC itself. Carefully insert the IC after socket has been soldered into place. The orientation is pointing south on this picture, as noted by the notch on the IC.
Take note that I purposely left Resistor 12k out. I later installed a switch to allow me to choose from 12k or 15k, to test out the self oscillation.
(But you need one of the 12k or 15K resistor that came with the kit in this area. Do not leave it out... unless youre experienced with the simple mod that I am referring to, which probably will end up with you needing to drill an extra hole into the enclosure for the switch)

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Next is another view, but included are the electrolytic capacitors, transistor and the TL072 Chip.
Notice the orientation of each. The silver strip on the caps show the negative side of the electrolytics.

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Last topside picture has the rest of the components (capacitors in this case) soldered to the board. Take note that the LED will be soldered when ready, so it is left out. Also, you can see again that the 12K resistor is still left out. I didnt want to confuse anyone with the mod shown since this is primarily based on a stock BYOC Delay.

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Here is an example of the soldered side of the board. Clean, although there is one solder splash that can be seen in the pic. I took the picture before cleaning the board. I then cleaned with a brush and some isopropyl alcohol.

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With some patience and cleanliness, you can assemble this pedal with no worries in a small amount of time. BTW, it sounds great !!!
Enjoy!

Wiring pictures soon to follow.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:31 pm 
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Here are some notes on building the ping pong delay:

Make sure you take stock of all the parts when the kit arrives. This way you won't get stranded, mid-build, if you're missing one or two parts.
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Next, it's a good idea to lay all the electrical components out ahead of time. This helps keep things flowing while you populate the pcb. Also, I highly recommend measuring the value of each resistor before installing it on the board. Those tiny color codes are way too easy to misread!
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Here is a shot of the top and bottom sides of the board after Step 4, before installing any of the sockets or caps. When installing the resistors, I recommend doing up to five or so at a time. This helps keep the accuracy up, and sloppy soldering down. Don't install and solder all the resistors at once! That's a sure fire way to get a cold solder joint, or to put the wrong value in the wrong spot. Also, notice that a jumper should be installed at R33.
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More to come...

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 8:16 pm 
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Here is the board after Step 11. Things are getting very tight in there. Make sure you take your time, double check each component's value, and make sure everything is soldered well. It's good idea to insulate exposed leads like I've done with the vertically mounted resistors. This helps make sure components are not shorting out once everything is put together.

NOTE: No reason to install the chips in their sockets yet. Go ahead and hold off on that for a while...
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 4:53 pm 
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Okay - so now you're ready to start connecting things together. I like to begin by installing and wiring the DC jack first before installing the footswitch and audio jacks. This gives a bit more room to make solid connections. Once the DC jack is wired up, install the footswitch and the input jack. I leave the output jack out for now to leave some room for connecting the input and ground wires between the input jack and footswitch. Once that is taken care of go ahead and install the output jack and wire up the tip to the footswitch.

NOTE: I've made a mistake here - see if you can spot it and I'll reveal it down the line.
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It's a good idea to place the board in the enclosure when you are cutting your wires to the board (in this case the +9vdc wire and the ground from the jack to the board) to help get an idea of how long each wire should be.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 5:09 pm 
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Now onto mounting the board to the pots and toggle switch. Things get pretty tricky here.

The toggle switch is what sets the depth of the board in the enclosure. I found that I had to remove the inner nut that snugs against the switch casing and I only installed the serrated washer on the toggle inside of the enclosure.

Once you've installed all the pots and the toggle switch, and inserted (but not soldered) the LED into it's pcb pads, fit the circuit board over the legs of the pots and switch. Do as the instructions say and leave the outer nuts on the pots and switch fairly loose so you can move things around a bit to get the board to seat properly. Once I got everything where it should be, I bent the pot lugs a little bit to hold them in place as Stephen suggested in his post here: http://www.buildyourownclone.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=8980

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As you can see, and as Stephen noted, the "pong" pot lugs are very close to other on board components. Image
What I did here was heeded Sugar Bear's advice and tack soldered the one accessible lug, removed the board completely, and finished soldering the pong pot from the back side of the board.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 5:11 pm 
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Wiring the PCB.

Go ahead and finish it up!
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 5:25 pm 
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Now to test it out. Here is what I recommend for firing it up for the first time. Install the TL082 8-pin chip, but not the PT2399 delay chips yet. The reason being is it's best to make sure your dry, buffered signal is working properly before going whole hog and installing everything. When you plug in your pedal with just the TL082 and switch it on you should get a red, illuminated LED and a strong dry tone through the pedal. The buffer in the Ping Pong Delay is based on the Boss DM-2 and Ibanez AD-80, so it will darken your tone a bit. The amount of darkening will vary depending on your guitar and amp set up.

So, I plugged the pedal into my rig and guess what? No worky! :( No signal in bypass mode, LED lights up fine, and no signal when the pedal is engaged. I whipped out my DMM (always have your DMM ready to "whip out" :wink:), set it for continuity, and quickly discovered that I had wired the output jack backwards. :roll: The tip was connected to ground and the sleeve was connected to the output from the footswitch:
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So I re-wired the output jack, correctly this time, plugged everything back in, and there it was, a good strong signal with the pedal on and off.
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Next, go ahead and install the two PT2399 delay chips and you should ready to rock!
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 5:27 pm 
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Oh yeah - Step #1...if you finish your enclosure first, you can build the circuit while the paint is drying!

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 3:30 pm 
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Thanks for your help with my PingPong Delay problem.
Great finish on yours! how do you print the words on the coat?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 4:33 pm 
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gshapzira wrote:
Thanks for your help with my PingPong Delay problem.
Great finish on yours! how do you print the words on the coat?

Waterslide decal. There are lots of threads on the topic in the DIY subforum.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 6:15 pm 
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Just finished my delay, i actually made the same mistake and wired my output jack wrong but I looked on here and figured out the problem, thanks for posting the great write-up.

You guys weren't kidding about the darker tone, holy shit... I was considering leaving out the two components to leave the dry signal more transparent, but I decided to build the dark delay instead and see what all the fuss was about... i'm a big fan of dark analog delays, so this is perfect for me, but i can see why some people wouldn't like it... If you have an effects loop, it shouldn't be a problem anyway.

Now on to the chorus and phaser...

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 8:21 pm 
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WOW, YOU ARE A LIFE SAVOR.
I decided before starting this ping pong to look on this site first. Read your email and used your pictures after I populated the board (AND PUT BACK THE cap omission, thank you thank you).

Did everything you said and my BABY fired up the first time perfect, absolutely perfect. One of the nicest and now easiest BYOC I've made. I've made the RossComp, VB2, FuzzFace, Large Beaver, Screamer (awesome), Phase 90, and EQ10.

BYOC should really include your pix and suggestions. It would avoid comments like the one guy who took a wrench to his pingpong. Poor guy, I definitely know how he feels, I've been there.

BIG THANKS AGAIN.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:42 am 
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Glad to hear it's helping! :D

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:44 pm 
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This is indeed fantastic! you said you cleaned the board with isopropyl alcohol. I used denatured alcohol on my chorus board and all it did was make all my solder joints look dull like they were cold joints. I ended up scraping off the flux with a pick. it never came out as nice looking as the photo you have here though. You said the photo was taken before cleaning? How do you not get all the flux residue around each joint?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 8:53 am 
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kevnkar wrote:
This is indeed fantastic! you said you cleaned the board with isopropyl alcohol. I used denatured alcohol on my chorus board and all it did was make all my solder joints look dull like they were cold joints. I ended up scraping off the flux with a pick. it never came out as nice looking as the photo you have here though. You said the photo was taken before cleaning? How do you not get all the flux residue around each joint?


After I solder a couple of components, I clean with a brush and some isopropyl alcohol. Then I check the joints to make sure they are good. Once I am all done, I do one more cleaning. Come out great. No flux, no sticky residue, and looks PRO.
I HATE boards that arent clean. Just a pet peeve of mine. :)


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:31 am 
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Here are some photos of a completed analog delay that Duhvoodooman was kind enough to submit:
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Also, he was nice enough to let me post this demo he made of the circuit:
http://duhvoodooman.com/miscimages/musical/AD/BYOC_AD_demo.mp3

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 4:50 am 
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Here's what the Analog Delay PCB looks like with 1/8 watt resistors. I've had the resistors in my parts bin for years and finally got to put them to good use.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 7:08 pm 
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I see 8 .01s/10nk caps on that picture. My inventory only lists 7? on the delay/pingpong kit.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 4:42 am 
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From step 3 of the build instructions on page 6...

"Note: Omit the .01uf cap highlighted in red completely."

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