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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 12:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2012 12:00 am
Posts: 25
Hi everybody.

Just finished assembling the lazy sprocket (It's my second build, I was happy and surprised when the tonebender I built a few weeks ago fired right up). The sprocket will not pass audio when on. The position of the trim-pot and pots has no effect.

1. When bypassed, the pedal passes audio.
2. When engaged, the LED lights up, but the pedal does not pass audio.
3. I've double checked to make sure all the polarized caps except for the tantalum are properly oriented.
4. The tantalum cap did not have one longer lead, it did not have a ++ on one side. The first picture is a picture with the cap visible: (I apologize if the pics are too huge, I'm not sure how to re-size.)

Attachment:
File comment: Tantalum capacitor
cap smaller.jpg
cap smaller.jpg [ 117.29 KiB | Viewed 3053 times ]


There is writing on the cap. The lowest row says +128. I assumed, perhaps erroneously, that the side closer to the + was the positive lead. There is also a narrow stripe going down that side.
Before I start digging deeper, is it backwards?

Also is there a way to check polarity before install? I have the cheapo m-meter that came with the toolkit, and I've been able to figure most of it out, although the only instructions are in German.) I'm an absolute newb w/electronics and soldering

5. The second picture is a picture of the top of the circuit board--I guess the next step is to check to make sure all the resisters are in the right place?

Attachment:
File comment: PCB top
front of pcb smaller.jpg
front of pcb smaller.jpg [ 457.76 KiB | Viewed 3053 times ]


I've checked for continuity between the input lug on the foot switch and the solder bump on the circuit board. I've do the same for the output on the circuit board and the output check. Those connections appear to be fine.

There does not appear to be continuity between the input and out put on the circuit board. I tested with the power on. Is that the correct way to test for continuity?

6. The last picture is of the bottom of the board. Obviously my skills are at the beginner stage, and from the picture I see some crud that needs to go. But, is there anything from this pic that looks like an obvious short or fatal no-no? (I already removed the piece of clipped lead that is circled in this picture and it is not the issue.)

Attachment:
File comment: PCB Bottom
back of pcb smaller.jpg
back of pcb smaller.jpg [ 387.43 KiB | Viewed 3053 times ]


Finally are there any next steps or other suggestions? I would love to get this up and running?

Thanks for your time, I really appreciate it.


-James


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 1:41 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2012 12:00 am
Posts: 25
Well for starters I accidentally switched the 390 and 390k resisters. Doh! See if the that does the trick.

James


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 4:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2012 12:00 am
Posts: 25
And that'll do it. :oops:

All's well that ends well.

James


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 5:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2007 10:57 pm
Posts: 3546
Location: San Diego
Cool! The little + sign on the tant cap is indeed the positive side marker. Glad you got it sorted.


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