Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hi so this is my first go at one of these, also my first time soldering(?) a circuit board so I was expecting problems.

Now, as the title would suggest the pedal works, that is - i get power, and the bypass works (led works). But I get no sound. When I dial in the knobs i got some scratch noises.
Also, when i put it in auto wah i first got a loud buzz and then nothing.


Now to the second problem, me being stupid using a bad tool to try to open up the screws on the knobs again pretty much crushed the screws. After some other work with tools that most certainly aren't meant to open screws but in this case were mandatory I finaly got the knobs of. But leaving the pots (?) longer (don't really know how to explain, pics below.) Now are they ruined, fixable or does it even matter?


I appreciate any help that any of you can give me.







funny looking knobs


Sorry if the pictures are a bit blurry. Shaky hands and an old camera will do that I guess.

Also: I wont be able to do any troubleshooting this week. So any help that can be given just based on my problem and my pictures is great!


Thanks.

The smaller of the two IC's (the 4558D) is mounted upside down. Refer to the photo on page 7 of the instructions. You may be fine just switching it around, though this condition will often "fry" the IC.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I just realized that. Now im in way over my head on how to remove it.


Is it possible to purchase a new one somewhere? Maybe here?

Just grip it gently with a pair of needlenose pliers in the lengthwise direction and lift straight up while carefully wiggling it back & forth. They come out pretty easily.


If you find it necessary to replace the IC, they are readily available, including from here: http://buildyourownclone.com/storeics.html

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

should be easy to remove - that's why we use sockets! just grasp the ends gently with a needle-nose pliers and pull it out, being careful not to bend the legs out of shape.

if it's fried and you need a new one, check the BYOC parts store or hundreds of other vendors.

edit:

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At least we agreed, Cap'n!

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Problem is I think the entire thing (oh god i need to learn some new words here.) the thing that is soldered to the circuit board is mounted the wrong way. But maybe that doesn't matter?


Edit: Not the chip but the thing that the chip is mounted to.

The orientation of the DIP-8 socket doesn't matter, only the orientation of the IC itself.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Ok. Thanks a lot!

... And it looks like you applied destructive force to those pots. You seem to have pulled the shafts up and out of their riveted position on the wiper disk. I would be surprised if they still worked.

Destructive force was demanded of me. Stupid screws...

So I guess I'll buy two new pots and a new IC just to be sure. Permission to say cock!


Edit: I flipped the IC, no luck there.


Edit #2: When buying a new IC do the bottom numbers mean anything? JRC 4558D and then I can't find one with the same figures on the bottom numbers.

With the right size screwdriver the screws in the knobs are not usually a problem.

No the 'bottom' numbers don't matter - only the main part number JRC 4558D.

With broken pots fitting a new IC may not be enough. I think you need to fix the pots too. Easiest way to get the old ones out is to carefully cut through the legs to remove the pot, then heat the stubs left in the PCB and pluck them out with tweezers or needle nose pliers. Then clean out any solder blocking the pad holes. If you cannot cut all the way through the pot legs just make sure they are scored and gently bend the pot back and forth until they snap.

Thank you all for the great tips and support!

I am currently trying to get a hold of a C250k pot. I can't order from this site since I live in Sweden and the Swedish distributor is currently out of stock.


I'll bump whenever it arrives.

A few things -

Check out http://www.banzaimusic.com in Germany for parts - they have Alpha 250K anti-log but with solder tags.

While you are at it, as I think I mentioned, it is worth replacing the Manual 100K log pot with a 100K Anti-log and R16 with a 22 or 27K to get a smooth manual sweep. With the 'wrong' pot shipped with the kit, the manual control is more-or-less and on/off control. Unless, that is, BYOC have quietly changed their kit and now ship an ANTI-LOG 100K control for the Manual pot.

And ... you need to know that when it is working this pedals rest state is with the filter swept down so low there is no output, which might make you think it is not working. It needs to get a healthy input signal and have the Sensitivity pot turned up, normally somewhere beyond half way, for the filter to open enough on each note so you can actually hear anything. Just to check the filter is working you can switch to manual and turn up the Manual pot to see if the filter opens. Providing you have an input signal making its way into the pedal and only the filter, but no envelope, working, adjusting the Manual pot should let some signal through.

Ok, but will the solder tags fit? And I can't really remember the assembly list now but what part is the R16?

Yeah, no problem--you'll just need to run short wires between the solder lugs and the PCB eyelets.


At upper right:

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Ah, thanks a lot. I'm off to order the parts then.