Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Yeah the fixed wah works fine, but the envelope filter does nothing. It passes a dry signal through when engaged or disengaged in envelope mode. In fixed wah the the wet signal comes through fine and sounds and acts good. I checked all the solder points a million times. Cant find a solution.

Sounds like the portion of the circuit that controls the sensitivity & attack isn't working correctly. Do you have a spare op amp that you could swap into IC1 (see labeled PCB diagram below)? Any standard dual op amp (JRC4558C, RC4558P, NE5532, TL072, TL082, etc.) should work there.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I do have one, but its not in a socket its soldered to the pcb, and I suck at desoldering. Im still a novice when it comes to soldering and desoldering. I have a solder sucker but cant seem to free the op amp. How else do I get this off of the board, I have some of the copper wire to desolder, but don't know how to use it. again any help would be nice

I don't recommend trying to remove a soldered op amp. You'd be better off picking one up at Radio Shack--they generally stock the TL082:

http://www.radioshack.com/tl082-tl082cp ... 61715.html

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

If I'm not mistaken, OP is saying the op amp to be replaced is soldered directly to the board, so it will be hard to replace. In that case you're going to need some desoldering braid, though DVM usually warns against the stuff at Radio Shack.

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Hmmm, I interpreted his comment to mean that he has another op amp that he could use as a replacement, but that is the one that's soldered to its board.

The EF/FW kit comes with sockets for both IC's, so unless the OP didn't follow the kit instructions, the op amp should be readily removable.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

So I got my new op amp in the mail. The original problem was just the fixed wah was working and not the envelope. When in envelope it did send what I think is 100% dry signal through, but that was all, nothing wet. I was told to replace the op amp. I replaced the op amp. Now it still only sends a dry signal but with the new op amp I can hear that the controls for envelope are working, except the range. I only know they are working because I could hear slight changes, (in the still existing dry signal the envelope was still producing), when I turned the knobs, but the range didn't appear to do anything at all. So I did get slightly somewhere with the op amp change with the sounds I could hear in the dry signal while turning the knobs, but that's it, no wet signal at all in envelope. And the fixed wah portion works perfectly. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Heres some pics too, my soldering sucks.

From the looks of the first photo I’d say that at least part of the problem is with your soldering. The focus could be a lot better but I’m seeing several misshapen solder joints. Some look more like thorns than little cone shaped solder joints. I’d suggest going back over your work and reflow all the solder joints so they all look alike.

The photo below could be a little bigger but if you look closely all the solder joints are pretty much uniform in their size and shaped like small cones. None of them are oblong or thorn shaped.

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"It’s your soldering."

Thanks, ill re do all my soldering, boo hoo, my soldering sucks. I hope I get better but im not gonna quit. Question, what happens if 2 solder points are touching? im assuming its bad. also I have a little disc that came off a solder point, and now no matter how may times I solder the cap into the hole with the missing disc , it wont solder securely, its not like moving freely, but I don't know if without that disc will the capacitor still work. thanks for the help.

"There are no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people" -unknown.

That depends. If they are adjacent eyelets that are physically touching each other or already connected with a trace on the PCB--and this is a pretty common situation--then a solder "bridge" between them is harmless. But if they are not supposed to be connected (this can be checked by comparing the circuit schematic to the labeled PCB diagram--for the EF/FW, those are HERE, second one down), it can be a serious problem. If you're not able to make that judgment yourself, just post back and identify the component numbers where you're seeing the bridging--refer to the labeled diagram below.


Yeah, that's not a good thing. You've lifted a solder pad. However, it can be fixed. Referring to the labeled PCB diagram below, which eyelet is it, and on which side of the board?

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2