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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2016 8:29 pm 
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Built it a couple of years ago and it worked right off the bat. Been using it for a while. I finally got around to painting the enclosure and I seem to have busted it while re-enclosing.

Worked when de-cased. It was a tough fit to get back in there and I got a little frustrated and rough with it. I was pushing on the JRC13600 to get the PCB to seat back into place. When I fired it up in the enclosure, it was was dead unless I jostled it. When bumped it would make a loud CLICK or pop and work for a second or so. I used this effect to see if I could find what I assumed was a short to ground. This happened a few times until it stopped altogether and it never made a sound again and I've been sad ever since. :cry:

I pulled it back out, cleaned up a couple of solder-points and checked for continuity here and there. Still dead. The LED lights when the circuit is active and the bypass works (naturally). No sound at all when the circuit is active.

I think the back of the pots may have shorted against the PCB solder-side. Would a short fry the IC?

Looking for help.... two things in particular:

  • Voltages at various points so I can test
  • Suggestions on how to test the 13600... or maybe I just replace?

I guess I could have cracked a solder joint somewhere... also possible that painting the enclosure killed the grounding but it worked when de-cased if i recall so...

Thanks in advance...


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 10:03 am 
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Did maybe reverse the IC at some point, or can you audio probe it? Also, connect both grounds on the audio inputs to rule that part out. It's not unheard of to kill the ground when painting.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 10:37 am 
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jimilee wrote:
Did maybe reverse the IC at some point, or can you audio probe it?

IC has not been removed since installation. It worked for 2 years. It's not reversed.

Been thinking about building and audio probe.... good idea...

Quote:
connect both grounds on the audio inputs to rule that part out. It's not unheard of to kill the ground when painting.

It's currently wired per the instructions: you are suggesting I connect input tip and sleeve? I could try this....

I already scraped the paint off the inside of the enclosure jack holes to ensure a good ground connection. I thought that painting it could have caused a grounding issue. When I re-house, I can check to ensure it's grounded properly to the enclosure. But shouldn't it work when outside the enclosure? It does not. In that case, it would ground to sleeve on the guitar patch cords and ground reference comes from the guitar/amp, no? Enclosure is irrelevant at the moment I think.

Thanks for the help.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 11:24 am 
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In my experience, the most common problem that happens when you rehouse a pedal is one or more of the wires becomes frayed or pulls loose from its solder joint. Try giving all the wires a good tug to see if anything lets go.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 11:46 am 
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Does the LED light when the footswitch is in the engaged position?

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2016 7:25 pm 
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byoc wrote:
In my experience, the most common problem that happens when you rehouse a pedal is one or more of the wires becomes frayed or pulls loose from its solder joint. Try giving all the wires a good tug to see if anything lets go.


Yeah... especially given the out-side mounted DC jack that's soldered from the inside... it hangs off the wires and can't be completely removed without de-soldering the wires. For my usual builds I use the kind that that push through the inside of the hole (nut on the outside) so I can remove everything easily and finish the enclosure with no fussing.

Anyway, yeah I checked that already, but I'll do another run-through and even re-solder where it looks questionable.

duhvoodooman wrote:
Does the LED light when the footswitch is in the engaged position?


Yes. LED lights up, switches from bypass to circuit, and then goes silent.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 11:14 am 
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Yeah, I prefer the external nut DC jack for function, but prefer the aesthetic of the internal nut, as do most people. We started supplying the kits with the external nut a few years back because it made things a lot easier if we needed to trouble shoot, but got a lot of complaints, so we switched back to the internal nut. Some of the newer kits have the option of what kind of DC jack you want, but the older kits just get the internal nut.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 8:54 pm 
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byoc wrote:
In my experience, the most common problem that happens when you rehouse a pedal is one or more of the wires becomes frayed or pulls loose from its solder joint. Try giving all the wires a good tug to see if anything lets go.


OK... walked through the whole thing. Re-flowed joints that I could reach easily, checked for shorts, and re-flowed each of the wire endings (jack lugs, PCB pads, DC jack, 3pdt poles, etc.). Checked for continuity here and there looking for an obvious problem. Pulled and reseated the ICs.

Still broke. Bypass works, but the PCB does not pass a signal. The LED lights.

Does anyone have voltages at key points that I can check for? I don't know the circuit so I'm not sure how to follow it or what to expect from it. Also would like to know how to test the two ICs (or at least check for voltage on pin 1 and the out pins). The schematic is included in the instructions, so I'll print it out and start to try to map it to the PCB.

Thanks for any help. Hate for this thing to become a doorstop.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2016 10:17 am 
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pins 3,4,13, and 14 should have approx. 4.5v
pin 11 should have 9v
pin 6 should have continuity to ground or 0v
pins 1 and 16 are your control voltage. Switch to manual mode. You should see the voltage change here as you turn the manual knob.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 10:22 pm 
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I think I may have fried it now. LED no longer lights up. I may have accidentally used the multi-meter across battery + and the IC pins (instead of ground-to-pin)... not sure if that would send current or higher voltage to the ICs.

I was ordering some other parts for another project so I also ordered 2 replacement ICs just in case I fried one.

BYOC manual has for BOM:

1 - 4558, TL072 or other dual op amp
1 - JRC13600, JRC13700, LM13600, V13700, or other dual transconductance op amp
1 - 8 pin socket
1 - 16 pin socket

So I ordered a National Semi LM13600N to replace the JRC13600 Op Amp and a KEC KIA4558P to replace to the 4558. Total cost = $1.68 yay!

I'll post when I make progress or fail to. Thanks for the support.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 10:41 am 
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Squirrel Murphy wrote:
I think I may have fried it now. LED no longer lights up. I may have accidentally used the multi-meter across battery + and the IC pins (instead of ground-to-pin)... not sure if that would send current or higher voltage to the ICs.

I was ordering some other parts for another project so I also ordered 2 replacement ICs just in case I fried one.

BYOC manual has for BOM:

1 - 4558, TL072 or other dual op amp
1 - JRC13600, JRC13700, LM13600, V13700, or other dual transconductance op amp
1 - 8 pin socket
1 - 16 pin socket

So I ordered a National Semi LM13600N to replace the JRC13600 Op Amp and a KEC KIA4558P to replace to the 4558. Total cost = $1.68 yay!

I'll post when I make progress or fail to. Thanks for the support.


It's possible that you shorted one of the 4558 chips. But if you remove them from the socket, the LED should come back on. If not, you have a wiring problem that needs to be addressed before you attempt to replace the chips.

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