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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 12:52 am 
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Hi. Ive been building my first pedal, the Lazy Sprocket and to help me my bandmate gave me this little PCB that drips onto the 3PDT footswitch lugs to make things easier somehow. The problem is the wiring diagram He has written out doesnt look like it will work for my pedal. He used this diagram for a totally different pedal. I didnt realize this could be a problem until right now. This PCB adapter board for the footswitch is already soldered on real good, so theres no going back. Can someone PLEASE tell me how to sire up this footswitch using this board? Thank you!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 6:25 am 
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Let’s say the eyelets across the top of the switch PCB are labeled 1 thru 6 from left to right with the square pad being #1. The solder lugs of the switch are as shown below…

1 __ 4 __ 7 __
2 __ 5 __ 8 __
3 __ 6 __ 9 __

We can see the following in your photo. Eyelet 1 (square pad) is connected to switch lug 2 and eyelet 2 is connected to switch lug 1. Eyelet 5 is connected to switch lug 4 and eyelet 6 is connected to switch lug 5. The unknown eyelets are 3&4 since their traces cannot be seen on this side of the switch’s PCB. One of them is connected to switch lug 7 and the other to switch lug 8. You’ll need to use a DMM on it’s continuity setting to determine which eyelet is connected to which lug. While you have your DMM out confirm that there is continuity between switch lugs 4&9.

The following wire connections need to be made…

Eyelet 1 goes to the SLEEVE tab of the Input jack (ground).
Eyelet 2 goes to the LED (cathode) eyelet on the main PCB
Eyelet 5 goes to the TIP of the Input jack.
Eyelet 6 goes to the IN eyelet on the main PCB
The eyelet connected to switch lug 7 goes to the OUT eyelet on the main PCB.
The eyelet connected to switch lug 8 goes to the TIP of the Output jack.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 8:13 pm 
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Thanks Stephen. I have the build i structions that tell me what connections go where, but I didnt think to use a multimeter. Will I be using the ohms settings on the DMM? I was hoping someone had done this before and could just twll me which pinouts on the footswitxh pcb are for which function. Are you saying that this footswitch PCB isnt universal as far as connections being the dame across pedals?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 8:22 pm 
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Jackstand Johnny wrote:
Thanks Stephen. I have the build i structions that tell me what connections go where, but I didnt think to use a multimeter. Will I be using the ohms settings on the DMM? I was hoping someone had done this before and could just twll me which pinouts on the footswitxh pcb are for which function. Are you saying that this footswitch PCB isnt universal as far as connections being the dame across pedals?

To measure continuity, you want it on the lowest resistance (ohms) setting. (Continuity is the absence of resistance.) It should beep when the two test points are electronically connected with no resistance in between them.

There are many footswitch PCBs out there, and there are at least a handful of different methods of wiring up a 3PDT switch. So unless you have the documentation that came with this one, it's best to make sure all is in order as Stephen suggested. That one looks really familiar to me, but I can't remember where I've seen it.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 9:13 pm 
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Thanks gentlemen. Lol maybe you gave this one to my bandmate a while back. He got it from someone here. Looks like I have to account for eyelets 3 and 4 so theres only 2 combinations left to try. I hope this is the only wall I hit.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 9:16 pm 
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Ah man. I dont think my DMM beeps at all. I have never in my years of using this thing heard it beep haha.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 9:26 pm 
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Ok so I just check and want to kake sure Igot this straight. I need to connect the eyelet to the lug that gives me zero resistance, correct? If that is true than eyelet 3 goes to lug 8 and eyelet 4 goes to lug 7. So this would mean that I can double check every single connection between the eyeletts and the lugs by finding the corresponding lug and to whatever eyelet reads zero ohms? If I got this right then I really owe you both a huge thank you. You just taught me how to do something with electronics that I will never forget. Ive used the ohms setting before, but only to check for certain parameters for motorcycke ignition coils and it definitely wasnt to try and find pure continuity. Thank yyou so much! I hope I got this right because I really want to fi ish wiring up this pedal tonight!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 9:38 pm 
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Ok maybe my multimeter is messed up because I went back to every eyelet to find its "match" that showed me zero ohms and with every eyelet I could find several lugs that would either give me a reading of 0.00 or a reading of around 1.5. So Im right back where I started and more confused as ever. I dont know what this test is supposed to do now since I was able toget eyelet 1 to give me a reading of 0.00 on lug 1 but a reading of 1.5 on lug 2 which is supposed to be what its connected to. At the same time eyelet 1 gave me a reading of 1.5 when connected to lug 7 and at least one other lug on the footswitch. Same thing goes for every other eyelet. More than one lug gave me 0.00 and more than one lug gave me a reading of 1.5 on every eyelet.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 9:18 am 
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Can you post a photo of your DMM’s controls? If it’s truly a DMM with no continuity checker it isn’t worth owning in my book.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 10:57 am 
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Im sure its just a Harbor freight multimeter. I dont think its features are the problem since I was easily able to set it to the 20 ohms range and check the lugs and eyelets. I think the problem is that my multimeter is fried since its cheap and been used a lot including 1 pretty serious pyrotechnics display from an acccident with the transforner on an old ehx microsynth pedal. It reads voltage just fine bit somethings not right here with these readins I mentioned in my last post after following yalls instructions.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2017 11:41 pm 
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Hey Stephen, my bandmate just shed some light on this that completely changed my perception on whats goig on but Im left equally confused. He thinks you were talking about making connections between the main PCB and the footswitch but I thought you were talking about the connections between the footswitch PCB eyelets and the footswitch lugs. I though you were talkig about figuring out the eyelets and lugs on the footswitch and footswitch PCB by itself, without including the pedals main PCB at all. Your first post telling me what goes where...were you talking about wiring the main circuit board to the footswitch PCB, or were you talking about just the footswitch PCB? I apologize and am embarassed that I might have completely misread what you were saying. I was so focused on the footswitch PCB that I couldnt step back enough to think about the main PCB.

So my bandmate is gonna bring over another one of these footswitch PCB's so yall can take a look at the backside. One way or another I will get ,y hands on another multimeter.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:30 am 
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Stephen wrote:
The following wire connections need to be made…

Eyelet 1 goes to the SLEEVE tab of the Input jack (ground).
Eyelet 2 goes to the LED (cathode) eyelet on the main PCB
Eyelet 5 goes to the TIP of the Input jack.
Eyelet 6 goes to the IN eyelet on the main PCB
The eyelet connected to switch lug 7 goes to the OUT eyelet on the main PCB.
The eyelet connected to switch lug 8 goes to the TIP of the Output jack.

The eyelets are all on the stomp switch PCB. The SLEEVE, LED, TIP, IN & OUT I refer to are the all on the FX PCB.

A photo of both sides of the switch PCB would be useful. That would allow us to confirm the eyelet to switch lug connections.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 8:02 pm 
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Thank you so much Stephen. I dont have the spare footswitch PCB yet but Im gonna upload some pics now of what I got i.e. the backside of the footswitch PCB etc. Thank you and by the way did I thank you yet? Because thank you.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 8:11 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 8:14 pm 
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Sorry i cant get a better shot of the backside of the footswitch PCB but its soldered on there really good and its a tight fit. I hope the picture I posted helps in some way. I know you cant see where the traces actually go to but maybe the one that goes lower goes to 8 and the other trace goes to 7?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 8:42 pm 
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So from looking at those traces, would you agree that most likely eyelet 3 connects to lug 8 and eyelet 4 connects to lug 7? I know I kinda assault yall with multiple posts at a time but when I fixate on something my brain starts redlining and as soon as I finish typing one though, another pops into my head. Anyways judging from what little we can see from the backside of the footswitch pcb, does it seem most likely that eyelt 3 goes to lug 8 and eyelet 4 goes to lug 7? Also I want to confirm which orientation you consider to call eyelets 1-8. I have been referring to the side that Ive soldered the lugs into place on, with the square pad on the extreme left. Is everyone on the same page with that? As always, thank you so much.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 4:54 am 
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We can’t see enough of the switch PCB’s traces to just assume that eyelets 3&4 go to stomp switch lugs 7&8.

I’m guessing that your DMM is one of those ultra cheap Harbor Freight meters. Personally I wouldn’t use one of those if you gave it to me. The fact that it doesn’t have a continuity checker is another strike against it. It’s just SO much easier to have a continuity checker than to have to explain how to use the resistance meter to identify connections with continuity between them.

Re: Eyelet designations
The solder pads are all referred to as you look at the drawing you provided. The switch PCB’s eyelets across the top from left to right are numbered 1 thru 6 with eyelet 1 always being the square solder pad. The solder lugs of the stomp switch (1 thru 9) are numbered as shown in my first reply.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 10:37 am 
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Yes as I stated in an earlier post it is a cheap Harbor Freight multimeter and the footswitch pcb had already been soldered into place, which is why this whole problem started to begin with. Itll be at least a few days before I can get pics of another footswitch pcb or a better multimeter but Ill post again when I do. Thanks anyways. I guess for now Ill keep working on whatever else I can with the Lazy Sprocket. I gotta say that my confidence went from surprisingly high to virtually non existent when I say just as many threads there are in this subforum about people not being ablento get their Lazy Sprocket to work for so many different reasons. I hope THIS is where I made my big mistake and its the only one...ha. Thanks again.


Last edited by Jackstand Johnny on Tue Jan 17, 2017 12:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 11:08 am 
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OK, assuming eyelet 3 goes to lug 7 and eyelet 4 goes to lug 8 this would be how to connect the switch PCB to the FX PCB

Eyelet 1 to SLEEVE of input jack
Eyelet 2 to to LED solder pad on FX PCB
Eyelet 3 to OUT solder pad on FX PCB
Eyelet 4 to TIP of output jack
Eyelet 5 to TIP of input jack
Eyelet 6 to IN solder pad of FX PCB

Lugs 3&6 and 4&9 of the stomp switch should be shorted together by a trace on the switch PCB.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 12:22 pm 
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Jackstand Johnny wrote:
I gotta say that my confidence went from surprisingly high to virtually non existent when I say just as many threads there are in this subforum about people not being able to get their Lazy Sprocket to work for so many different reasons.

This is a tech support forum, JJ. People who built their Lazy Sprockets and they worked the first time don't post here--it's the ones who had problems for one reason or another. So it's no surprise that you see many problems reported here. But let's move on....

Jackstand Johnny wrote:
Yes as I stated in an earlier post it is a Harbor Freight multimeter and the footswitch pcb had already been soldered into place, which is why this whole problem started to begin with. It'll be at least a few days before I can get pics of another footswitch pcb or a better multimeter but Ill post again when I do.

I think you're making this a lot more complicated than it needs to be. All we need to know to give you the correct guidance on how to wire up the the footswitch is how the 6 eyelets at the top of the footswitch PCB are connected to the 9 lugs. Right now, all we know is what we can see--eyelet 1 connects to lug 2, eyelet 2 connects to lug 1, eyelet 5 connects to lug 4, and eyelet 6 connects to lug 5. We don't know how eyelets 3 and 4 connect, and the connection scheme for lugs 3, 6, 7, 8 and 9 is unknown.

While this may seem like a lot of "unknowns", these questions are easily answered. You just need to take some resistance measurements with your multimeter, which should be perfectly sufficient for this purpose. also--and this is an important point--it is normal and expected that some eyelets and lugs will have multiple connections, depending upon which of the two positions of the switch is engaged.

So here is the systematic procedure I would encourage you to use to answer these questions:

  1. Set your multimeter to the lowest resistance range (200 ohms), which is where it's set in your photo. Confirm that it is working properly by touching the probes together, which should read 0 ohms.
  2. Fix the footswitch firmly in place (a vice would be ideal) so that you have both hands free. Orient it so that the 6 wire connection eyelets are at the top. Determine which position the switch is in by measuring the resistance across lugs 1 and 2 of the footswitch, and then across lugs 2 and 3. One reading should give zero ohms (or a couple of tenths, max.), indicating continuity, and the other should be infinity/off scale, indicating no connection. You want continuity between lugs 1 and 2, so actuate the switch if 2 and 3 are connected and then confirm that 1 & 2 are now connected.
  3. Once this is done, confirm that the rest of the switch is working correctly by also verifying continuity between lugs 4 and 5, and between 7 and 8. Then check between 2 & 3, 5 & 6, and 8 & 9--none of these should show continuity in this switch position.
  4. With the functionality of the switch now confirmed, it's time to check how the footswitch PCB eyelets are connected to the lugs. Place one probe of the meter into eyelet 1 at the top of the PCB. Now test for continuity (low/no resistance) at each of the other 5 eyelets, writing down each eyelet number where continuity to eyelet 1 is found. Keeping the first probe in eyelet 1, test for continuity at each of the 9 footswitch lugs, again writing down each lug number where continuity is found.
  5. Repeat the step 4 for each of the remaining 5 eyelets at the top of the footswitch PCB.

When you get done with this, report your testing results here as follows:

Eyelet 1 continuity-
- PCB Eyelets:
- F/S lugs:
Eyelet 2 continuity-
- PCB Eyelets:
- F/S lugs:
....etc. for eyelets 3 to 6

If you have any questions about this procedure, ask them now--don't want you to need to do this more than once, since it's a bit tedious.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 9:50 pm 
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Thanks for the walk through, but after following your exact instructions I have run into some problems making me think wither the DMM or the footswitch is bad. Most likely its the DMM. I did these several times with the exact same results. First I made sure there was continuity between lugs 1 and 2, but not lugs 2 and 3. Here are the readings between eyelet 1 and the other 5 eyelets:

1->2=0 ohm
1->3= 0 ohm
1->4= 1.6 ohms
1->5= 0 ohm
1->6= 0 ohms

Now for the oh,s reading between the lugs themselves:

Lugs 1&2= 0 ohms
Lugs 2&3= 1.6 ohms
Lugs4&5= 0 ohms
Lugs 7&8= 0 ohms
Lugs 5&6= 1.6 ohms
Lugs 8&9= 1.6 ohms

These were supposed to all read 0 ohms meaning continuity, correct? I did this test several times and got the same result.

Now for each eyelet going to each lug. I will show the readings in order of lug 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 etc

Eyelet 1= 0, 1.7, 1.7, 0, 0, 0, 0, 1.7, 1.7
Eyelet 2= 1.7 0, 0, 0, 1.7, 1.7, 0, 0, 0
Eyelet 3= 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 1.7, 0, 0
Eyelet 4= 0, 1.7, 1.7 0, 0, 0, 0, 1.7, 1.7
Eyelet 5= 0, 0, 0, 1.7, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0
Eyelet 6= 1.7, 0, 0, 0, 1.7, 1.7, 0, 0, 0

I just went back to recheck all of these readings between each eyelet and each lug and now Im getting a resistance of 3.0 ohms instead of 1.7. Something gotta be wrong with the DMM at this point, right? I hope these readings make sense to you. This was the best way I could think of to lay them out in the order you instructed.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 10:27 pm 
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Yeah, there's something very wrong here. Even 3 ohms is VERY little resistance. Unconnected lugs should show MILLIONS of ohms of resistance between them. Try another meter....

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 11:05 pm 
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I know it sucks to think about spending more money on a project you're frustrated with, but let me tell you three things that might change your mind:

1. You WILL get this figured out and then you WILL want to build more pedals.

2. A digital multimeter will be an invaluable asset to your pedal building tool kit. You'll use it on every build.

3. A decent DMM can be purchased for $10. Definitely under $20. Lots are Amazon Prime eligible, if you have that.

DOOOOEEEEET. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2017 9:05 pm 
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Oh Im not giving up fellas. Ive been wanting a new DMM because I need one for my car, motorcycle and wery other thing I ruin. Moneys been really tight though and I wont be able to buy one until the end up the month. My bandmates gonna stop by this weekend with His bew DMM if theres time so I could have it sorted out by then. Im not worried, discouraged or frustrated with this at all. I knew the DMM had to be bad after what Ive seen it do. With everything else thats going on, stuff like this is small potatoes and when I hit obstacles like this I literally start salivating and my jaws get tight like Im about to sink my teeth into a steak and I cant help but keep coming back to it until the problem is solved one way or another.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2017 4:44 pm 
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Im back with new data. First off Im using my bandmates brand new auto detecting DMM with continuity beep. Heres me first problem, is it supposed to beep when there is 0.00 ohms meaning it beeps when there IS continuity? Or is it supposed to beep when there is resistance meaning an ohms reading but no continuity? Because I though it was only supposed to beep when you have conti uity but every times it beeps I get a reading of around .8 ohms. So using that beep is how I set the switch to give continuity to lugs 1 and 2, but doing this meant everytime it beeped I got resistance. I checked the probes and they beeped, but showed a reading of .8 ohms. So heres what I found, same readout as last time:

First, the eyelets:
1->2= 0 ohms
1>3= 1.6 ohms
1->4= 0 ohm
1->5= 0 ohms
1->6= 0 ohms

Now jumping each eyelet to every one of the 9 lugs, in order:

Eyelet 1)1.0, .8, 0, 0, 0, .8, 0, 0, 0
Eyelwt 2)1.1, .8, 0, 0, 0, .6, 0, 0, 0
Eyelet 3) 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 1.1, .9, 0
Eyelet 4) 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 1.1, .9, 0
Eyelet 5) 0, 0, 0, .8, .8, 0, 0, 0, 0
Eyelet 6) 0, 0, 0, .8, .8, 0, 0, 0, 0

Again, everytime I got a reading of anything other than zero, the continuity beep would sound. To me thats very conflicting but you tell me lol. I hope this helps, but I have to say the readings are not exactly like last time but they share a lot of similarities.


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