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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 6:03 pm 
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Either sleeve of the jacks is always good.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 8:23 pm 
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Ok so sorry for the late response. I needed a second set of hands to do this. Im literally sitting at the work bench right now and just tested this based on your instructions. The voltage stayed at 4.64v and did NOT chenge at all when He switfly strummed the guitar strings. By the way, I am doing this with the JFET still removed correct? Because thats how I did this.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 11:49 am 
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This would make me think that the problem is with the envelope trigger. I'm sorry....did you say you have a signal tester? That would be really helpful here.

Do you see how the signal splits into two paths after Q1 and a branch makes its way down to IC1? This is the envelope trigger signal. With the Sens knob full turn clockwise, you should be able to hear normal guitar signal on pin 3 of IC1 with the signal tester. IC1 is a massive boost, so you should hear a very very loud and distorted signal out of pin 6 so be sure to turn the amp volume way down). Since you're not seeing any voltage fluctuation on pin 6 when you strum, I would assume that either no signal is getting to pin 3 or that there is a problem with IC1 (or the supporting components involved with IC1). It would be nice if you could use a signal tester to find out where the signal stops so we could narrow it down to something more specific.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:35 pm 
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Thank you for the fast reply! I do not have a signal tester. Just a digital multimeter. I guess theres no way to continue troubleshooting without a signal tester? Id hate to have to buy one. I was really hoping to not have to put more money into this pedal, just because it would at some point no longer be financially viable and I still have a bad EHX Microsynth that I need to send out and pay to have repaired. I will look into signal testers. Ive never heard of one for pedals so please forgive my ignorance towards them.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:36 pm 
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Now I DO have a continuity tester finction on my DMM. Is that what youre referring to, or is it specific to pedals or anything using a 1/4" input jack?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 9:29 pm 
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Ok so I learnedabout the tester youre talking about and just built one...I hope. I used a 10uF capacitor wired to a probe from an old DMM that broke and then soldered that into the tip wire of a guitar cable. Then doldered the shielded wire from the guitar cable to an aligator clip to connect to ground. Is that what you were talking about? The only 10uF cap I had is 200v which I hope is enough. One video I saw the guy said to use a 400v .10uF cap but it was for tube amps and another guy said He used a 10 microfarrad cap which I hope is the same as 10uF but He didnt specify the voltage value. I havent tested it yet as I just built in during my intermission of watching Rogue One plus...I didnt want anymore purple lightning balls or miniature flash bangs at point blank range. Did I do good or did I do the dumb thing?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 6:35 am 
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Your 10uf cap will work fine as a signal probe. Even a smaller .10uf cap will work. The voltage rating needs to be higher than any voltage the probe is likely to be used to trouble shoot. Since we’re talking 9V FX pedals here a rating of at least 16V is needed. If the rating of the cap is higher than that it’s not a big deal. You just don’t want to go poking around inside something like a tube amp with a a cap that is rated too low for the voltages inside the amp. If you do the cap will explode and let all the smoke out. And when you let the magic smoke out of any electronic component it’s a goner.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 3:12 pm 
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Thank you. Thats what I figured. I actually made a video just for yall and posted it to youtube last night well...around 3 am. It supposedly can be viewed if I post the link so here goes. Im hoping this helps clear some things up and make it easier to communicate. Its probably like trying to teach a dog long division but Ill get there.

https://youtu.be/J504h0IPvC0


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 4:32 pm 
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That's correct. You need to plug a guitar into the input and strum though to actually hear something.

To start, check for signal on the emitter of Q1 and pin 3 of the op amp. Use the PCB map to find those points.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 5:31 pm 
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Ok so I need to use my tester in conjunction with my guitar plugged into the input? I found Q3 but which one is the OP amp? Its not the one labeled IC1 with the 6 pins is it? I have an uneasyfeeling like I just said something really really dumb. I just dont see anything labeled as OP amp in the pic posted on page 1. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 5:34 pm 
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Ok got it Ill get back to yall as soon as I can.Thank you!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 9:22 pm 
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Jackstand Johnny wrote:
....but which one is the OP amp? Its not the one labeled IC1 with the 6 pins is it?

Yes, it's IC1. An op amp is a type of integrated circuit (IC).

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 11:24 pm 
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NOYCE! Haha thanks for the confirmation. I appreciate all the help from the big guns on the forum. Yall sure do know how to make a girl feel special...












...Just kidding fellas pull your cell phones out of your pants. Im a big gross dude.


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