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Interesting!! Haven't ever run into that personally, but then again I've never connected caps to a PCB in that fashion.

What you need is two .022uf (i.e. 22nf or "223") polyester film caps with a 5mm lead spacing. Available from BYOC here: https://buildyourownclone.com/collectio ... -capacitor You may be able to get them at a local electronics supplier, if that's more convenient.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I wasn't able to find polyester film in the right size and value for direct replacement. I was able to find these. Will any of these work just as well?

The two Mylar "greenies" look fine for this use, and would be my choice over the other two because they are film caps. (The two ceramic types may work just fine, but why not stick to the cap type originally specified?) Hopefully, the lead spacing is the 5mm size used for film caps on BYOC fits (and most other brands, too). Worst case, you might have to bend the leads inward a bit to fit, but that would be an aesthetic issue, not a functional one. The caps do not need to sit flush on the PCB, though they look neater that way.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

so getting back to where we were...

zener diode 5.4 V
lug 2 attack 5.4 V
lug 3 attack 5.4 V
Q5 collector 5.3 V
Q6 collector 5.3 V

passes steps 5, 6, and 7 now (I assume)

but fails at step 8. Q3 base has no swell.

Assumptions can be dangerous! What exactly are you assuming here?


Is this with the Sensitivity and the Attack both all the way up (full CW)?

You should be testing on the higher strings with single notes to hear the swell most clearly. Don't expect the swell to be multiple seconds long; I would guess that it might last 300 - 500 milliseconds with the Attack on full. I find that a bit of overdrive helps accentuate the effect.

You might also want to get a set of voltage readings on Q2 (the JFET) and Q3, to make sure they are properly biased.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I messed something up somewhere. I tried reflowing my joints and now I'm getting lower voltages on the attack knob lug 2 and 3 and Q5 and Q6 collectors. all around 4 V. I'm beyond frustrated with this right now. I feel like I've repeatedly taken a step forward then backward this whole way and still haven't made any progress from where I was at the beginning. I certainly don't want to make it sound like I don't appreciate the time and effort you put in to this for me. But I need to walk away for a little bit.

Always a good idea. Nobody takes offense to a breather. I can’t tell you how many pedal builds I’ve totally trashed from not walking away. Good on you for recognizing that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

Okay I'm back. I have completely freed the guts from the enclosure for ease of access. I have reflowed for the millionth time. I have scrubbed the crap out of it (front and back) with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry thoroughly. here's what I'm getting:

op amp pin 6 loud distorted

D1 5.4 V
Attack Lug 2 5.3 V
Attack Lug 3 5.3 V
Q5 collector 5.3 V
Q6 collector 5.3 V

Q5 loud distorted
Q6 loud distorted

Q3 dry unity no swell

Q3 emitter 5.6 V
base 5.8 V
collector 9.5 V

Q2 emitter 5.4 V
base 5.4 V
collector 4.8 V

all tests were with sensitivity and attack at 100%

As far as usability, if I turn the sensitivity knob all the way to 0, I get no signal. As I start to turn the knob and it gets to roughly 9 o'clock-ish, I will start to get some signal coming through if I hit a string hard enough. There is no swell - it's either on or off. I'm muting the string each time before I pluck it again. if I hit a string lightly, it does not make a sound. If I hit it hard, it will make a sound, play the note for a second, then die out. The more I turn up the sensitivity, the less gating I'm getting and the longer the string will make sound and also not having to hit the string as hard to make sound. basically, it's acting like a gate when sensitivity is low. and no swell effect is happening.

The attack knob doesn't seem to do anything no matter where it's set. The trimpot also seems to have no effect where it's set.

Q2 is a JFET. It doesn't have an emitter, base, and collector. It has a drain, source, and gate. You should notice a "D", "S", and "G" printed on the circuit board inside the space for Q2.

Please take voltages again for Q2 with these new labels.

Also take a voltage reading of the gate of Q2 while you are strum the guitar. Do you notice any change in voltage immediately after you strum?

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

my bad

Q2
D 5.4 V
S 5.4 V
G 4.8 V

when I strum, the gate voltage drops to just under 3 V

It sounds like the envelope (IC1, Q4/5/6) is working, so that's good. You should be able to adjust the voltage range on the gate when you strum by adjusting the trimpot. You've described a gate voltage range of 4.8 ~ 3V already. What is the range when you turn the trimpot full turn clockwise? What is the range when you turn it full turn CCW?

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

CW 3.6 V
CCW 2 V

I need the range.

? ~ 3.6V
? ~ 2V

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

when the trim pot is fully CW, Q2 gate is 4.8V then drops to 3.6V when I play. when the trim pot is fully CCW, Q2 gate is 4.8V then drops to 2V when I play.

Remove Q2. Does the pedal now pass signal that is relatively identical to bypass?

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

yes it does

I would try replacing the JFET. And socket it while you're at if you have some SIP sockets. Do you have a spare 2N5457? If not, contact sales@buildyourownclone.com and we'll send you one.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

I got the package you sent. I just finished installing the socket and JFET. and...it works! everything seems to be working as it should. all pots are acting right. I'm getting the swell. I'm super happy. now, I'm going to put it all back in the box and wrap it up. thank every body for your help and patience with me.

I love it when a 3-page troubleshooting thread ends in success! Congrats on sticking with it and getting to a happy place.

_________________
Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Glad to hear that the pedal is finally working as it should! ENJOY!!!

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thank you for being patient and sticking with it.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com