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 Post subject: Env/fixed wah problem.
PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2020 7:06 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2020 6:56 pm
Posts: 4
Hello,

Third build here. (Confidence booster, colorbooster and classic delay all work)

Fixed wah and bypass both work. Env does not work. If I crank the sensitivity up all the way a very quiet distorted signal is present and playable.

I have gone back over all joints.

Any thoughts?


Last edited by Gmp123 on Thu Mar 05, 2020 8:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Env/fixed problem.
PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2020 7:08 pm 
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2020 10:03 pm 
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Location: San Diego
Probably not related to your problem, but for the long-term viability of the pedal I would re-work the stomp switch soldering.

Also, and maybe related to your issue, clip off all of those little pig tails sticking out of your solder joints. They are a short hazard.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 11:47 am 
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I ordered some finer clippers to get them better. None at making contact. The signal goes thru both JRCs when in manual. The part of the circuit that is bypassed when in the manual setting are the other 3 pots right? So my problem is there. Could it be in the switch then?

Thank you


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 1:35 pm 
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Yes, it sure could. DO you have an audio probe? They are easy to make and allow you to trace audio through the circuit. It's a super easy and fast way to pin point which part of the circuit is problematic.

In the meantime, use the continuity setting on your meter to test that both side of the switch are working.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 2:09 pm 
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Location: Albany, NY
Gmp123 wrote:
...The part of the circuit that is bypassed when in the manual setting are the other 3 pots right?

Not exactly--the Sensitivity and Attack functions will be bypassed in Manual mode, but the Range control still works. Take a look at the schematic and labeled PCB diagram (below) and you can see that the Sensitivity and Attack controls (VR2 and VR3) are in the lower section of the circuit that feeds back into the upper section through that mode switch (SW2). But the Range control (VR1) is not affected by the switch.

As Mike suggested, the best way to check for a bad toggle switch is to do a continuity test between the center lug and the two outside lugs with a multimeter. With an on-on SPDT toggle switch, there should be continuity between the center lug and one of the outside lugs at one switch position, and between the center and the other outside lug at the other position.

The envelope filter uses the second half of the 4558 (IC1b), so maybe that's bad. Got another pedal with a socketed 4558 or equivalent GP dual op amp (e.g. a TL072) that you could swap in and see if that helps? If not, you could also take voltage readings on the pins of that IC and post them here and we can tell you if they look normal or not.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 4:39 pm 
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I will look up the probe on the forum thank you.

I will see if I have another op amp of a similar style in these pedals. Any idea what sort off effects use them? If it is indeed bad where is a good place to pick up an assortment of op amps?

All the pots read correctly with my meter.

Thank you fellas for all the help


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 5:02 pm 
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Gmp123 wrote:
I will look up the probe on the forum thank you.

You can see how one is constructed from the instructions on the BYOC product page: http://byocelectronics.com/signaltesterinstructions.pdf

Or you can just buy one ready-made: https://buildyourownclone.com/collectio ... gnaltester

Gmp123 wrote:
I will see if I have another op amp of a similar style in these pedals. Any idea what sort off effects use them? If it is indeed bad where is a good place to pick up an assortment of op amps?

General purpose dual op amps are probably the most commonly used IC's in effect pedals. They are used to provide the gain for innumerable overdrives and distortion boxes, are often used in both input and output buffers, and have many other uses, as well. If you are looking in commercial pedals, you aren't terribly likely to find one that you can easily use, since they are generally soldered directly to the PCB. But BYOC and other pedal kit makers commonly use 8-pin sockets that these op amps are inserted into without soldering, so can be easily removed.

As far as compatible types go, the most common are probably the JRC4558D, RP4558P and TL072, but others include the NE5532, TL082, OPA2134 and LM833, among others. Any of these should work in this pedal.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 7:20 pm 
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BTW, BYOC sells several dual op amps at very reasonable prices. Here are three good ones for buck apiece:

https://buildyourownclone.com/collectio ... ts/jrc4558

https://buildyourownclone.com/collectio ... ucts/tl072

https://buildyourownclone.com/collectio ... ucts/tl082

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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