Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hi all, just finished my build and the effect sounds great. It just doesn't go into bypass when I hit the footswitch. Following the format:

1. Pic of the top side of your PCB. - Included

2. Pic of the underside of your PCB. - I took pictures along the way and included the last set before moving on to the Pots.. I haven't taken it apart since completing the build. LMK if that's something I need to do.

3. Pic that clearly shows your footswitch/jack wiring and the wires going to the PCB - I think it's clear but let me know.

4. A pic that clearly shows your wiring going from the PCB to the pots and any other switches - I don't have it at the moment but Pots seem to be working fine.

5. Is bypass working? - Nope, that's the issue.

6. Does the LED come on? - Yes.

7. If you answer yes to 5 and 6, what does the pedal do when it is "on"? - Performs beautifully.

I'm using 9.6v power via an EHX adapter that was handy.


Thanks!
Ross

Most BYOC kits, including this one, use latching footswitches, not the momentary contact kind that you find in many commercial pedals. Are you sure that you're depressing the footswitch with enough force to get the audible click that occurs when the switch latches?

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I just double checked and I definitely get the click and feel the latch. (As an aside, turns out I still have one of this style on my main board and the rest are the ones you're describing.)

Should have mentioned yesterday that the light goes off when I hit the switch.

Adding some additional perspectives of the switch in case it's my soldering.

Given the symptoms you've described, this pretty much has to be a footswitch issue. I would recommend that you do the footswitch function test described here: http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewto ... 10&t=31545

You will need a multimeter set to its continuity function to perform this test. The key switch lugs for this testing will be the 4-5-6 trio (which handles the input signal path) and the 7-8-9 trio (which handles the output). With the switch engaged (LED on) you should see continuity between 4 & 5 but not between 5 & 6, and between 7 & 8 but not between 8 & 9. In bypass (LED off), you should see continuity between 5 & 6 but not between 4 & 5, and between 8 & 9 but not between 7 & 8.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Much to my surprise, all those check out.

Continuity
Engaged (Light on) Bypass (Light off)

4&5 Yes No
5&6 No Yes
7&8 Yes No
8&9 No Yes

I checked most of the others in the thread you cited and didn't see any problems.

I found another issue that didn't jump out at me before. The Attack dial doesn't seem to change anything. I tried to reflow the solder but can't discern any change. Sensitivity does work.

Do you have continuity between 4 and 9? You want to touch the probe to the solder lugs, not the wire. When in bypass, do you have continuity between the tip of the input jack and lug 9?

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Well, I broke down and took everything apart. Touched up a bunch of solder connections and reassembled and now it works. Thanks for the help!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Great! Enjoy the new pedal!

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2