Build Your Own Clone Message Board

I just completed my build. When in bypass mode, it is bypassed but the LED is still lit. It dims, still pulses, but is not off. Is this normal? If not, I can follow up with pics. Everything works as expected except this. I’m tempted to leave it as it doesn’t really bother me since the LED is dim.

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-Jamie

The LED should go out when the pedal is bypassed. Check the continuity between lugs 1&2 and 2&3. When ON there should only be continuity between lugs 1&2 and none between lugs 2&3. If there is continuity between lugs 2&3 in the ON position there is either a short somewhere on the PCB or you have a defective stomp switch. This happened to me once a long time ago. There was continuity between lugs 1&2 and 2&3 at all times. This is why I check all my switches now prior to installation.

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"It’s your soldering."

Assuming that ON means the bypass is engaged, I get a reading between lugs 1 & 2 and nothing between 2 & 3

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-Jamie

For me ON means the LED is ON. To me “bypass is engaged” means the pedal is in bypass mode or OFF.

Does “I get a reading” mean there is continuity between lugs 1&2 and no continuity between lugs 2&3? If that is the case then I would check to see if the Collector of Q2 (2N3906) has continuity to ground even with the stomp switch in bypass mode. Q2 is just to the left of the LED on the PCB. Q2’s Collector is the leg that is closest to the 3 electrolytic caps above Q2.

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"It’s your soldering."

Just got a chance to look at this. I’m not sure I completely understand testing the continuity. I used a multimeter (hence “reading”) on the transistor you suggested. When the pedal is on, i get 5.3ish reading on the meter. When the bypass is engaged, I get 0.002.

When using the multimeter on the switch lugs, when the pedal is on, I get 0.00 for both lugs 1 & 2 and 2 & 3. When bypass is engaged, lugs 1 & 2 read 5.70 and lugs 2 & 3 are 0.00.

Hope this makes sense. If not, ask me questions and I will try to clarify. I’m a software engineer by trade so all this hardware stuff is new to me.

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-Jamie

To test for continuity (the absence of resistance), you should have the meter set to the lowest resistance range. Most meters will beep when there is continuity. You can test for the expected behavior or reading by touching the probes together.

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

OK. Thanks for clarifying. This is what I got: If I set my meter to 200 ohms and touch the prongs, it gives me a reading of 0.00. If I touch a resister that is higher than 200 ohms, I get OL which I assume is “overload”. My meter does not beep. The transistor gives me OL in both on and bypass. Same with switch lugs 1 & 2 and 2 & 3, both on and bypass. When in bypass, if i touch lugs 1 & 2 with the meter prongs, the light is bright like when the pedal is on.

PS - My multimeter is an old radio shack one. I’m looking to get a new one and would love recommendations. Don’t wanna break the bank but don’t mind spending to get something better. I have to use a meter for resistors as I am colorblind and cannot read the stripes.

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-Jamie

Hi guys. OK. I got a new multimeter that has a continuity check. Here are the results of what you posted earlier:



When ON, there is only continuity between lugs 1 & 2 - NOT 2 & 3.



There is NO continuity for the Collector in bypass mode. Only when the pedal is egadged.

I'm planning on taking it apart today and checking to see if there are any obvious shorts on the board. Ultimately, I'm not overly concerned since when bypassed, the LED is quite dim. And, if I get an effects pedal, it's nice to see the rate setting before I engage the pedal. So, as Microsoft would say... "feature!"

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-Jamie

You should also check continuity (on the switch) when you press the bypass switch to make sure you get the opposite readings.

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

OK. I got some interesting results. When in bypass mode, I get continuity for lugs 1 & 2 as well as 2 & 3. Not only that, if the module is plugged in, the multimeter beep pulses with the rate for lugs 1 & 2. If I pull the module out, it's just a steady beep.

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-Jamie

Please upload photos of your build clearly showing all wiring and footswitch connections.

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

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-Jamie

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-Jamie

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-Jamie

Done - see above. I tried to get pics of everything. I'm hoping I missed something but I did go over everything with a magnifying glass.

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-Jamie

Okay, soldering could be improved but I don’t see any visible shorts.

I think further testing of the switch is in order.

In effect mode, switch lugs 1-2, 4-5, and 7-8 should have continuity; 2-3, 5-6, and 8-9 should not.

Opposite is true in bypass mode. Please test both.

Also, test lug 1 to the ground lug of the output jack in both switch positions. Should have continuity in effect mode and no continuity in bypass.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

Everything stated above is true with the exception of lugs 1 & 2. I have continuity for lugs 1 & 2 in effects mode. In bypass, I still have continuity in lugs 1 & 2. If the module is not plugged in, I get a solid beep from the multimeter. When the module is plugged in, it beeps but it pulses with the rate. Speed up rate, pulse speeds up. Slow it down, and the pulse slows down. So, lugs 1 & 2 have continuity whether effects are engaged or bypassed.

As far as soldering, I’m still working on it. I think the board looks good. The lugs seem to be my weak point. If you see issues with the board, let me know so I can improve. I’ve built 7 pedals and this is the only one with issues. It was my 4th, I believe.

Thanks for all of your help!

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-Jamie

I agree with that. The board looks good, the switch lugs don't look great. It looks to me like maybe your iron isn't hot enough for the switch lugs and not enough heat is transferring.

This how the LED works in this circuit - supply voltage is sent through R22 to the anode (+). The cathode (-) connects to Q2. The LFO circuit applies oscillating voltage to Q2's base, which alternatively opens or closes the connection between the collector and emitter. The Q2 collector connects to switch lug 1. Lug 2 is ground. When lugs 1 and 2 are connected by the switch (effect mode), the circuit is complete and lights up. When lugs 1 and 2 do not connect, there should be no ground connection at the Q2 collector, and the LED should not light.

So, your LED is misbehaving because either your switch is damaged and lugs 1 and 2 are always connected, or there is a short to ground somewhere else on the PCB that allows the Q2 collector to be grounded, which makes it look like the switch is not working properly. I would remove the wire from lug 1. If the LED turns off and you still measure continuity between lugs 1 and 2 in both states, the switch is damaged.

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

With lug 1 disconnected, there is no continuity between lugs 1 & 2 with the pedal in bypass. There is continuity between lugs 1 & 2 when the effects are engaged. Also, the LED is on for both bypass and engaged but it is dim for both and does not change - dim is how the LED is in bypass mode with lug 1 connected - bypass the LED is dim, engaged the LED is fully bright like you'd expect.


This is probably true. The default for the Hakko was 750 and I dialed it down to 650. I bumped it back to 750 and was able to easily remove the solder from lug 1 so I'll give this a try. Thanks for the tip!

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-Jamie

~600F is the resting temp I've set on my iron. Actual soldering is 850F, if that says anything about iron temps.

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The tone is in my hands?!
Email: nick@buildyourownclone.com

The faintly lit LED sounds to me like you may have some slight current leakage to ground somewhere around the LED section of the PCB. Could be coming from residual solder mask and oxidation from soldering providing some conductivity to a ground point. Try wiping down that area of the board with rubbing alcohol on a Q-Tip. Repeat until the area looks clean, then see if that helped.


Just an FYI: I have a Hakko iron and leave it on 700 F for everything. Never have a problem with either flow or overheating. YMMV.


Nick, what did you mean by this statement? 60/40 solder melts at 370 F. Can't imagine why anyone would need to go as high as 850!

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

What is the resistance to the ground tab of the output jack from the wire that goes to switch lug 1 (when that wire is disconnected from the switch)?

This is starting to point to Q2. Your switch seems fine. That transistor might not be turning off all of the way. If it were me, I'd go ahead and try replacing Q2 - that's the 2N3906. Definitely make sure that the two transistors (2N3904 & 2N3906) are in the correct places and orientated properly. Those are different transistors for different jobs - they are not compatible with each other.

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

When I connect the output jack ground tab to the lug 1 wire that is disconnected, the resistance is 0.00 but the light brightens like the effect is engaged.


Will do.


Done and done. I will work with that. If it seems I need to make minor adjustments, I will do so.

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-Jamie

I have found that a quicker melt is preferable in my work. It also helps everything flow right away, helps with quick reheating if removal of a component is necessary, keeps things shiny, tinning wire is super quick too. Have you ever tried to solder something at 370? I find that sustained heat tends to lift solder pads, melt hardware such as switches, and it's harder for me to get proper flow-out and adhesion to component leads. Try it, and you'll see what I mean.

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The tone is in my hands?!
Email: nick@buildyourownclone.com

No, I haven't & wouldn't try soldering at 370 F! My point was that 850 F--nearly 500 F hotter than the solder's melting point--seems like overkill. As I mentioned above, I use 700 F for everything I do. Heats the substrate and melts the solder fast, which we both agree is desirable. This assumes a cleaned & tinned iron tip, of course.

What I will change, depending on the job, is the tip I use. Generally use a small (~1/16" width) chisel tip for pedal work, but change to a 1/8" chisel tip for amp work and for soldering ground wires to the backs of pots on a guitar. The greater thermal mass helps with rapid heat transfer and getting the substrate up to temperature.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2