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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2017 3:32 pm 
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Hi,

This is my first BYOC build. Had I known that it was going to be a 'difficult build' I might have tried another first, but it was the phaser that I wanted... anyway. If anyone can give me any help at all I would be very grateful.

Images here.
Attachment:
20170225_204812.jpg

Attachment:
20170225_152220.jpg

Attachment:
20170225_152206.jpg


My notes and things I've noticed:
The LED lights when the footswitch is on.
Signal gets through on bypass. Clear, clean guitar signal; no problem here I think.
When the footswitch is on the output signal is very very weak, (I turn up to full on my 250W Ashdown and I can hear it; just.).
The IC's get the following multimeter readings (V):
IC1 1 = 4.02, 2 = 4.03, 3 = 2.68, 4 = 0.00, 5 = 4.68, 6 = 3ish and reducing over time, 7 = 8.97, 8 = 9.58.
IC2 1 = 4.84, 2 = 4.86, 3 = 3ish and reducing over time, 4 = 0.00, 5 = 0.20, 6 = 0.05 , 7 = 8.99, 8 = 9.58.
IC3 1 = 4.03, 2 = 4.02, 3 = 4.00, 4 = 0.00, 5 = 4.01, 6 = 4.01, 7 = 4.00, 8 = 9.58.
IC4 1 = 4.02, 2 = 4.01, 3 = 4.00, 4 = 0.00, 5 = 4.00, 6 = 4.02, 7 = 4.00, 8 = 9.58.
IC5 1 = 4.02, 2 = 4.01, 3 = 4.01, 4 = 0.00, 5 = 3.97, 6 = 4.02, 7 = 4.01, 8 = 9.58.
The potentiometer labelled 'feedback' gets no readings on the multimeter at any point no matter the position.

I've checked the components when I first assembled the board and also after I realised that it wasn't working.
I have re-flowed as many of the solder joins as I can get to, even lifting up the pots in the middle so I could try to get to the covered ones.
Having checked previous posts I know that the readings on the IC's are not as they should be. If this is the case, what do I do next? Where should I start to find faulty components? Are the IC's with the 'different' values assumed to be 'dud' / 'fried' / 'corrupt'?
Which parts of the circuit are likey to be OK? Which parts should I focus on for rework?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2017 3:37 pm 
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Here are the images.
Attachment:
File comment: Top of the board.
20170225_204812.jpg
20170225_204812.jpg [ 980.08 KiB | Viewed 9596 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Underside near IC2.
20170225_152206.jpg
20170225_152206.jpg [ 958.54 KiB | Viewed 9596 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Under the pots.
20170225_152258.jpg
20170225_152258.jpg [ 580.93 KiB | Viewed 9596 times ]


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 12:32 pm 
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IC2b seems to be the problem. Check there and also check Q1 and R6. And R4, R5 and C2. Your soldering could use some improvement.

Do you get dry signal when the pedal is engaged and you turn the mix knob full turn clockwise?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 12:58 pm 
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Here are some resources on reworking your solder joints:

http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52211

http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 4:28 pm 
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Thanks for the help so far...

What I have done is re-heated the solder around IC2; this didn't seem to make any difference to the readings, so I even took the socket off and trimmed the legs on the other side. ( I didn't do that the first time)
The new readings on IC2 are 1: 4.20V, 2: 4.26V, 3: 3.35V and reducing over time, 4: 0V, 5: 0.19V, 6: 0.06V, 7: 9.00V, 8: 9.58V

The readings around:
R6 are 4.00V either side.
Q1 1.41V (top) 4.04V (middle) 4.00V (bottom)
R5, C2 and R4 have 4.00V either side on all.

There isn't a dry signal at a reasonable volume at all, at any setting of the mix knob (or any of the others)

Here are two new images following the reworking...
Attachment:
File comment: Under the board.
20170303_220724.jpg
20170303_220724.jpg [ 977.2 KiB | Viewed 9555 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Top of Board.
20170303_220745.jpg
20170303_220745.jpg [ 928.79 KiB | Viewed 9555 times ]


Following this work, there is some improvement, some more signal is getting through, but nowhere near the bypass volume. The trim pot is also having more of a noticeable effect, still no phasing motion in the sound though, just a change in the 'frequency sweep'? as the trim pot is turned.

Where do I go next, apart from going over my soldering again?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 5:28 pm 
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I'm not saying your issue is your solder for sure, but I can still see some joints that should be seen to. Your joints should be shiny and conical on the bottom, and the top layer should have the eyelet filled. Looking at your top-side image, the 10k on the bottom of the pic is what I mean, it doesn't look like enough solder has been flowed, or perhaps your iron is too cold? In any event, there are a few of these that cause convern. I have attached some pictures that you can use as a pretty decent guide on how your joints should look when you're done with them.


Attachments:
IMG_1849.JPG
IMG_1849.JPG [ 282.04 KiB | Viewed 9552 times ]
IMG_1850.JPG
IMG_1850.JPG [ 241.18 KiB | Viewed 9552 times ]

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 8:33 pm 
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Yeah, I have to agree that your soldering quality is the most likely cause of your problem. I see a lot of joints that are blobby and have too much solder on them. It's easy for adjacent joints to "bridge" together and cause voltage or signal shorts and other problems. These bridges are OK if the eyelets in question are already connected with a PCB trace, but if they're not, it usually spells trouble.

For example, here are two adjacent joints that appear to be bridged in your first photo:

Attachment:
PR_solder_bridge.jpg
PR_solder_bridge.jpg [ 112.04 KiB | Viewed 9547 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 3:54 am 
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So... last night I took apart the pedal, went over the whole board visually inspecting, trying to remove excess solder while not taking away too much. Checking for bridges and making sure that there was a gap where needed. Put it back together and got an incremental improvement, more signal came through, but it still isn't working properly.

So. Before I do the same again, is there a list of measurements from a working pedal so that I can compare mine. Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 4:11 pm 
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Another thing I've noticed... after resoldering the joints again.
On the power input there is a negative and two Positives. Only one of the Positives has a reading of 9v. The other one doesn't get a reading at all. Is the power input broken?

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 7:08 am 
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sirob101 wrote:
Another thing I've noticed... after resoldering the joints again.
On the power input there is a negative and two Positives. Only one of the Positives has a reading of 9v. The other one doesn't get a reading at all. Is the power input broken?

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk


No - it's a switching jack. You didn't mention under what conditions you were measuring, but it's so you can operate on either battery or 9V barrel plug, and when the plug is inserted the battery gets disconnected so you're not draining your battery while using the power supply.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 4:10 pm 
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tonedeaf wrote:
sirob101 wrote:
Another thing I've noticed... after resoldering the joints again.
On the power input there is a negative and two Positives. Only one of the Positives has a reading of 9v. The other one doesn't get a reading at all. Is the power input broken?

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk


No - it's a switching jack. You didn't mention under what conditions you were measuring, but it's so you can operate on either battery or 9V barrel plug, and when the plug is inserted the battery gets disconnected so you're not draining your battery while using the power supply.

That's great. I had the two positive wires swapped. Now that they are back in order, the battery works and the power jack works too, switching as you said. Now back to the same problems as before. The true bypass works, the led works, some signal gets through (not very much though) the effected signal is affected by the trimpot, no phasing.

I must admit though, this is more fun than going to a shop and buying a phase 90.

Can. Not. Wait. To. Hear. It. Work.

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 7:04 pm 
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sirob101 wrote:
IC1 1 = 4.02, 2 = 4.03, 3 = 2.68, 4 = 0.00, 5 = 4.68, 6 = 3ish and reducing over time, 7 = 8.97, 8 = 9.58.
IC2 1 = 4.84, 2 = 4.86, 3 = 3ish and reducing over time, 4 = 0.00, 5 = 0.20, 6 = 0.05 , 7 = 8.99, 8 = 9.58.
IC3 1 = 4.03, 2 = 4.02, 3 = 4.00, 4 = 0.00, 5 = 4.01, 6 = 4.01, 7 = 4.00, 8 = 9.58.
IC4 1 = 4.02, 2 = 4.01, 3 = 4.00, 4 = 0.00, 5 = 4.00, 6 = 4.02, 7 = 4.00, 8 = 9.58.
IC5 1 = 4.02, 2 = 4.01, 3 = 4.01, 4 = 0.00, 5 = 3.97, 6 = 4.02, 7 = 4.01, 8 = 9.58.

Are these voltage readings the same after resoldering?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 2:47 pm 
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IC1 is the same (not right compared to what I have read on previous threads).
IC2 is...
(pots at centre). 1 = 2.34, 2 = 2.40, 3 = 3 and reducing over time, 4 = 0, 5 = 0.18, 6 = 0.05, 7 = 8.99, 8 = 9.58
(pots full CW) 1 = 3.31, 2 = 3.37, 3 = 3 and reducing over time, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 as above.
(pots at full CCW) 1 = 1.39, 2 = 1.42, 3 =1 and reducing over time, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 as above.
ICs 3, 4 and 5 are the same as before (these seem, according to other threads, OK).

While I understand that there may be 'issues' at legs 3, 5, 6 and 7 of IC1 and at legs 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and 7 of IC2. I have no way of knowing how to progress. Is it some part of the circuit before that is causing the resistance that stops the current getting through?, or after the chip that does the same?

Is it possible that in my resoldering the joint that I have over-heated something and caused irreparable damage? (BTW, chips were taken out before resoldering joints. Solder was removed with a 'sucker' where necessary, I didn't find the braid easy to work with. Where I thought that there might have been bridges between solder, I 'drew' between them with a fine jewelers screwdriver to prove to myself that there was a gap.
Two new photos below (now that i've seen them again blown up on the computer screen, I'm going to go over the soldering again.)
Attachment:
File comment: Top of board.
20170309_201344.jpg
20170309_201344.jpg [ 977.59 KiB | Viewed 9487 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Underside of circuit board.
20170309_201601.jpg
20170309_201601.jpg [ 962.78 KiB | Viewed 9487 times ]


Thanks in advance again. And thanks for you patience.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 4:31 pm 
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sirob101 wrote:
While I understand that there may be 'issues' at legs 3, 5, 6 and 7 of IC1 and at legs 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and 7 of IC2. I have no way of knowing how to progress. Is it some part of the circuit before that is causing the resistance that stops the current getting through?, or after the chip that does the same?

At this point, since the readings changed after resoldering, it is likely that the soldering is the issue.

sirob101 wrote:
Is it possible that in my resoldering the joint that I have over-heated something and caused irreparable damage? (BTW, chips were taken out before resoldering joints. Solder was removed with a 'sucker' where necessary, I didn't find the braid easy to work with.

Not likely. Your solder joints look more cold than hot. It looks like you are not getting enough heat transfer. Take another look at Nick's photo versus yours. Your solder joints look uneven and lumpy. Is your solder iron tip clean, tinned, and free of corrosion?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 12:01 pm 
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As far as I know, the soldering iron is good to go (corrosion free etc.) I bought it for this project specially (for other small projects before, I had borrowed one).

There might be some value in borrowing the one I borrowed before...

Anyway... I'm not going to get a chance to get back to this project for a small while (weeks/months) so thanks for all the replies, help, hints and assistance. I haven't given up; I'm not going to let a few transistors and some shonky soldering get in the way of some sweet phasing sounds.

I'll be back...


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