Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Did you adjust the trimpot (slowly!) across the entire range of its sweep? The "sweet spot" should be somewhere near its mid-point, and I see it's all the way CW in your photos.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I don't recall if it kills the output completely at the extremes of the trimmer sweep, but for the most part, it just gives "dry" output, i.e. no phasing.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Pin 1 of your pot looks solder starved from the pictures.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

is this cap shorting?

_________________
Doh! Stupid Diode

If you’re sure you have the correct resistor values, sounds like it’s time for an audio probe. You can google it or I think there are instructions on the site, it’s fairly simple to do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

Unlike your chorus pedal, the voltages here look okay enough to pass signal. This means there is likely an interruption in the signal path. Like Jimi said, a signal tester would be ideal to find out what’s going on.

Sometimes this type of issue is from the footswitch or switch wire connections at lugs 5 and 7.

_________________
MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

You can get excellent guidance on how to build your own from the BYOC signal tester instructions. It's little more than a 1/4" jack, a 100nf (or larger) capacitor, and some wire. That said, the BYOC kit gives you everything you need, including a nice probe for the test end and an alligator clip for the ground, so it's well worth the small investment.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Basically, yes. What it tells you is that the problem is somewhere between that point and the last test point in the signal path where sound was present. So it won't usually tell you exactly where the problem is, but it will localize it and make it much easier to find. Locate the "good" and "bad" test points on the circuit schematic, and find which components, solder joints and traces need to be checked. Then use the signal tester to zero in on the defect.

BTW, the problem won't necessarily be an open circuit--could easily be a signal short to ground, as well.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

A looper is great so w you don’t have to strum your guitar over and over, lugs 5 and 7 are a very good point, I always forget about the stomp.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

Boss RC-1. $100

_________________
The tone is in my hands?!
Email: nick@buildyourownclone.com

The trim pot on the chorus biases everything, so if you don't set it correctly, you'll get no signal of any kind. The trim pot on the phase biases only the phase stages, so if you don't have it set correctly, you'll still get dry signal. So if you aren't getting any signal at all on the phaser, it's likely a problem at the input or the output buffer.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Input buffer (op amp) on the left, output buffer (BJT) on the right:

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2