Good catch on the LED rate flashing, which is also part of the LFO circuit. But the solution is the same, and honestly it will probably take you longer to identify just those components than it would to reflow the entire board. I'll reiterate what duhvoodooman said, drawing your attention particularly to this paragraph in his linked post:
Quote:
By "reflow", we mean simply re-melting the solder joint using a clean, well-tinned hot soldering iron. Typically, you hold the tip against the joint for 2 or 3 seconds--long enough to see it liquefy and perhaps change in shape as the solder flows more deeply into the eyelet and around the component lead or wire end. It's a standard way of fixing a "cold" or poorly formed joint that isn't making electrical contact. You can also use the iron tip to dab away excess solder, if the joint is blobby, or melt on a bit of additional fresh solder, if the joint looks "thin" and doesn't have the ideal conical shape. Also, as you do this, be on the lookout for other solder-related issues, like excess solder "splash" on the board, or solder "bridging" between adjacent eyelets that aren't already connected with a trace on the PCB. Clean up these problems, if you see them. And as long as you're at it, if you have long component leads or wire ends protruding from any of your joints, clip those down the the top of the joint, since they could potentially cause shorts. And one other point: remove any IC's from their sockets before going through the reflow process, and replace them when you finish.
(Emphasis mine.) Reflowing all the joints will make things worse if your iron tip isn't clean.
Login
Register
FAQ
Search
