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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 2:46 pm 
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You know, that's one of my favorite things about building pedals and amps and whatnot; there are so many ways of achieving the same thing.

I use the same largish flat tip for just about everything, and really only use the smaller chisel tip for SMD stuff. So many ways to skin this cat that any builder is able to grab pieces of advice from many different builders and apply it to their style. As long as the end result is a working, reliable build, one can even use a red hot butter knife to solder if they want. (would be ridiculous, but possible).

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 5:24 pm 
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Anyway, back to the topic at hand... :roll: :P

jajoyner wrote:
Morgan wrote:
What is the resistance to the ground tab of the output jack from the wire that goes to switch lug 1 (when that wire is disconnected from the switch)?

When I connect the output jack ground tab to the lug 1 wire that is disconnected, the resistance is 0.00 but the light brightens like the effect is engaged.

This is why the LED is lighting in bypass. The Q2 collector is being shorted to ground and it shouldn't be.

This is how I would go about chasing down this short to ground:
- remove the wires entireley from the PCB to switch lugs 1 and 2
- test for proper switch operation without the wires installed to confirm again that the switch is fine
- Confirm that PCB pad 2 has continuity with ground (it should)
- Confirm that PCB pad 1 has continuity with ground (it should not), If pad 1 does not have continuity with ground, you've already fixed it. Reinstall new wires.
- Visually inspect the PCB trace from PCB pad 1 to the Q2 collector for any signs of a possible short to another point on the pcb
- Confirm that the Q2 collector has continuity to ground (it should not)
- Remove Q2 and check to see if the PCB pad for the collector or ewither of the other 2 PCB pads have continuity to ground (if not, replace Q@ with a new transistor)

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 10:39 pm 
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So, I decided to remove all of my wiring and do it again. In the process of desoldering the wires, I fudged up my board. My trace to the power jack came off the PCB. I decided to just buy new parts and build it again and I got a different module, the Optocoupler. My original was the 8 stage JFET. I built the new board and I still have the same problem. The LED just dims when in bypass mode. The pedal sounds great (as it did previously). I can't believe I could make the same mistake twice or that I got bad parts twice. So, I am calling it a day a living with the dimming LED instead of it cutting off. I don't want to risk hosing another board. I'm a little bummed but it's just not worth it and honestly doesn't bother me - except knowing that it shouldn't be happening. That said, thank you so much for all your help.

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