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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2020 10:20 pm 
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Hello--
New to the forum, new to building my own...messed something up.
Finished building the Harmonic Tremolo, plugged it in and it makes a regular "blip, blip, blip..." sound at about 120 bpm. When the foot switch is engaged, that's all that comes through--no guitar sound, just that blip. In bypass mode, the clean guitar sound is there but the "blip" continues in the background--it's quieter but still there. Problem is the same with battery instead of plug in power.
I did not install an LED. It was listed as optional, so I didn't order that part.
I've attached a photo of the top of the board. I can't seem to flip the board over because the DC plug connection is very short and there's not enough room to pull out the pots, so I can't get a photo of the bottom of the board.
Thanks for any help,
Sam


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2020 8:34 am 
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Sorry for the bad news but you’re gonna have to disassemble your pedal and let us take a look at the solder side.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2020 9:58 am 
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Also, have you adjusted the trim pots per the instructions?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2020 10:38 am 
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Stephen wrote:
Sorry for the bad news but you’re gonna have to disassemble your pedal and let us take a look at the solder side.

+1. The only thing that you need to un-solder is the connections to the DC jack. Everything else will just lift out of the enclosure once you remove the nuts on the jacks, pots and footswitch.

It may just be the camera angle, but make sure there's no contact between the wiring for lugs 8 and 9 on the footswitch.

Do you have access to a multimeter and know how to use one?

EDIT: Per Morgan's post following, the LED is NECESSARY for this circuit to function! (It also gives you visual indication that you're in bypass or engaged mode with the footswitch, and confirms that power is getting into the circuit.) If you PM me with a mailing address, I'll be happy to pop one in the mail to you.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2020 11:06 am 
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Actually, it looks to me that the LFO won't actually work if you don't have an LED installed. The LED sits in between supply voltage and part of the LFO. Definitely try installing one.

http://byocelectronics.com/brownfaceschematic.pdf

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2020 4:28 pm 
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Thanks to duhvoodooman for sending me an LED. I wish BYOC had not listed that as optional when I ordered. And thanks all for the replies. I hadn't set the trimpots yet. That's because all I heard when I plugged the pedal in was the blip sound.
Here are pics of the back of the board and the switch. It's kind of hard to tell in the photos but I don't think anything is touching on the switch.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2020 5:55 pm 
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I'd probably cut the tail off the wire on lug 8


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2020 6:03 pm 
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You have a number of protruding component leads. Those should be trimmed back as close to the top of the solder cone as possible.

Your soldering otherwise looks pretty good otherwise, certainly better than average for a non-working pedal. My guess is that this will work when you install the LED and dial in the trimpots. Keep us posted!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2020 6:31 pm 
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jimilee wrote:
I'd probably cut the tail off the wire on lug 8

sjaustin wrote:
You have a number of protruding component leads. Those should be trimmed back as close to the top of the solder cone as possible.

^ I would do both of these.

Additionally, you have a solder joint for one of the 220K resistors down below the Speed pot that looks like it never got soldered:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 8:47 pm 
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I put in the LED, cleaned up the component ends and soldered one unsoldered resistor end. No luck. Same "blip, blip, blip" when DC plugged in. But now when running on battery, there's no sound at all when engaged. And the battery gets warm real quick. Bypass works okay.

I do have a multimeter though I'm a novice at using it.
Thanks for any help!
Sam


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 11:14 am 
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samfuq wrote:
....And the battery gets warm real quick.

That's a sure indicator of a power short to ground somewhere in the build. The battery is pushing as much current as it can and heats up pretty rapidly.

You'll need to inspect carefully for contact between points where it shouldn't be. On the PCB, look for solder bridging between adjacent eyelets that aren't already connected by a PCB trace. Remove any stray bits of solder and be sure that your component leads and wire ends are trimmed right down to the tops of their solder joints. Insulate the backs of any pots that are beneath the PCB (not an issue with the Harmonic Trem) and inspect all wire connections carefully to make sure that you don't have stray wire strands making connection to nearby metallic surfaces.

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