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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 1:55 pm 
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Just finished my Brown Face trem build. Works fine but the switch pops very loudly when switching on or off. Any help?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 2:08 pm 
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You might try connecting a high value resistor (1 Mohm or higher, if you have one) between lugs 7 and 2 on the footswitch and see/hear how it acts then. Just "tack" solder it in place; if it doesn't help, remove it.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 2:46 pm 
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Thanks, I'll give it a shot.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2020 10:05 pm 
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I am having the same issue. This is my first post so hopefully I'm not resurrecting a dead post on my first try. Anyway, I tried the 1M ohm between lugs 2 and 7 on the switch but it didn't seem to make a difference. Then I noticed that the schematic shows lug 6 connected to ground, but no connection to lug 3. The instructions suggest connecting a jumper between lugs 6 and 3, but the only way lug 6 gets a ground is through lug 2 when it is switched. Could this be the source of the popping?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 11:21 am 
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PastorB wrote:
I am having the same issue. This is my first post so hopefully I'm not resurrecting a dead post on my first try. Anyway, I tried the 1M ohm between lugs 2 and 7 on the switch but it didn't seem to make a difference. Then I noticed that the schematic shows lug 6 connected to ground, but no connection to lug 3. The instructions suggest connecting a jumper between lugs 6 and 3, but the only way lug 6 gets a ground is through lug 2 when it is switched. Could this be the source of the popping?


You can connect lug 6 directly to lug 2. You can also use a 470k resistor.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 9:02 pm 
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byoc wrote:
You can connect lug 6 directly to lug 2. You can also use a 470k resistor.
jajoyner wrote:
Did this work?

To answer my own question: this did not work. I jumpered lugs 2 and 6 with a 470k resister. I assume I could have done 2 and 3 as 3 and 6 are jumpered but since Keith said 6 that's what I did. The popping is still loud. It would be unusable in a live setting.

It's looking like the only fix is to replace the switch with a relay bypass. BYOC is out of stock at the moment.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2020 1:12 pm 
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Hi all! Just finished my build and love it except for the loud pop. I was wondering if anyone has a solution to this issue that works before I go out and look for a 470k resistor to try out.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2020 1:44 pm 
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kimonostereo wrote:
Hi all! Just finished my build and love it except for the loud pop. I was wondering if anyone has a solution to this issue that works before I go out and look for a 470k resistor to try out.

None of the suggestions in this thread including the 470k worked. I did then all. I think the only fix will be to buy a relay bypass kit once BYOC gets them back in stock.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2020 2:54 pm 
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Hmmm. Thanks for your reply. I guess that would rule out a possible “loud” switch. I guess I’ll just live with it.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2020 6:20 pm 
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kimonostereo wrote:
Hmmm. Thanks for your reply. I guess that would rule out a possible “loud” switch. I guess I’ll just live with it.

I can mail you a 470k if you want to try it.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2020 6:32 pm 
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Thank you so much @sjaustin! That's super nice of you to offer!

I can always pick one up if I'm ever in the vicinity of 1 of 2 remaining places on the island that sells electronic parts. Just didn't want to go out of my way if others have already tried it and it's not going to work.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2020 6:38 pm 
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I have found that switch pop is a really tough nut to crack. Solutions that work for some people don't work for others. The resistor has a street value of about ten cents, so I'm really happy to send it. PM me your address if you want to try it.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2020 7:28 pm 
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@sjaustin thanksso much for sending me a 470k resistor to try on this pedal! I soldered it between lugs 2 and 6, but unfortunately it did not work. :-(

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