Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hello, I have just finished building the classic phaser, but as stated in the title, I really can't tell if its working or not. I adjusted the trim pot, listening very closely multiple times and I just can't seem to get the phaser sound out of the pedal that I hear in this guy's demo video of the byoc classic phaser:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bI0Hg42KxUM

The rate (of the LFO I guess?) definitely seems to be changing when I turn the speed knob but that certain phaser sound just is not fully there (to me at least) and I'm not sure what the problem is. I've attached two photos of the component side of the board to take a look at. Something to note: the leadless solder I was using did not easily flow onto the input/output jacks and the joints turned out very messy and could be an issue. Here's also a link to a basic strumming test with the phaser engaged at different levels:

https://soundcloud.com/user-895252217/c ... haser-test

Sounds pretty decent, just not quite as intense. You do have to turn the trim pot literally 1mm at a time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

Do your 2N5952 JFETs have 3 painted stripes on the back or do the have a stylized "F" on the front?

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

FWIW, opinions on lead-free solder: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52454

Bottom-line, most of us hate the stuff.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Ok, I will try adjusting the trimpot again. To the byoc admin, there is only one 2N5952 that has stripes on the back, and the other 3 do not have an "F" anywhere on the front side.

Ok, I will try adjusting the trimpot again. To the byoc admin, there is only one 2N5952 that has stripes on the back, and the other 3 do not have an "F" anywhere on the front side.

Do the others without the stripes on the back have the exact same font/print on the front as the one with stripes?

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Yes they all have the exact font.

Here's some photos of the transistors, there are some differences between them although the font is the same. One has a white-ish coating on the front that makes it a bit hard to see the numbers, only one has stripes, and only one has manufacturing details on the back of it.

I don't know whether it's significant, but the transistor closest to the camera in the last picture looks like it reads "2N598".

Eponymous, I took a close look at the transistor and it reads "2N5952" like the rest of them, the "2" is just very faded and hard to see. The "5" in the photo I posted really does look like an "8" though.

1. Measure the voltage at the "g" (gate) of each JFET and make sure you are seeing a fluctuating voltage.
2. Test for continuity between the "d" (drain) of each JFET and make sure it is connected to pin 3 of each JFET's respective op amp. Try to test between the pins of the actual components.
3. Test for continuity between the "s" (source) of each JFET and make sure they are all connected to the square solder pad of the 5.1V zener diode that creates the voltage divide.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Just to let it be known, I have been sick for a few days and somewhat bedridden, but I have not given up on this pedal. When I recover (which should be in a few days hopefully) I will test all the points you listed.

Oh no, I hope you feel better soon. Take care.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

No worries. There's no rush at all. Feel better.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Thank you Jimilee and byoc, I am feeling better now. I ran through and tested each thing that was instructed. In #1 "Measure the voltage at the "g" (gate) of each JFET..." I'm not sure if I measured the voltage correctly. I measured the voltage by doing the following: plugging the pedal in, making sure it was engaged and then putting the negative test probe of my multimeter on the input jack's (of the pedal) "ground" prong and the positive test probe onto each "g". Is this correct? I recorded a voltage fluctuating from 1.902V - 1.921V from each of the 4 JFET's. There was continuity between all the "d"'s of the JFET's (I tried my best to make sure the probe was touching the pins and not the pads like you said) and pin 3 of each of their op amps. There was also continuity between each "s" of the JFET's and the square solder pad of the 5.1V diode.

That all sounds like it's good. Best I can guess, since your peal is "working" but isn't producing as much depth as one would expect, is that you've got one or two JFETs that are bad or are so mismatched that you can't bias all 4 together, essentially giving you a 2-stage phaser. Email sales@buildyourownclone.com and we'll get a new set out to you.

If you're having trouble desoldering the current JFETs, just clip the body off and then you can pull each leg out one at a time. I'd remove them one JFET at a time and then test the pedal, particularly when you get down to just one or two JFETs, to see if it makes much of a difference in sound.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Okay, thanks so much for the help! I will follow through with that and let you know how it turns out.