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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2020 8:03 pm 
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Hello again!

I've got yet another issue.

I have no sound passing through the pedal whether it's on or bypassed.

Pedal powers on, LED responds to pot adjustments.

Internal trim pots adjustments do not do anything.

I have re-flowed all joints.

I am stumped. I probably (hopefully) just have another misplaced resistor or something.

I have checked and rechecked all of my component placements, but i am obviously missing something.

Please Help!

Thanks,
~Troy

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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 8:11 am 
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If you have no signal in bypass OR effect mode, I would be looking first at your wiring on your I/O jacks and the bypass signal path through the foot switch. You can examine all those joints to see that they are good, reflow the solder, etc.

Do you have a multimeter? If so, you can use it to check continuity through a pretty simple path that we can give you, and that should reveal the problem pretty quickly, I think. Check this thread for info about troubleshooting lack of bypass.

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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 8:27 am 
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I do have a multimeter.
I will go through the instructions on your attached link, sometime this weekend, and report back with results. Thanks!

~Troy


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 8:52 am 
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Have you adjusted your trimpots?

"When you are done with your build, you will need to adjust the trimpots before your build will work properly.
You will first want to set the LEVEL trimpot so you can hear the signal before setting the DEPTH SYMMETRY trimpot. This is your overall output control. Without setting it, you won’t be able to set the DEPTH SYMMETRY.
The Internal DEPTH SYMMETRY trimpot adjusts the volume when the external DEPTH knob is full-turn counter clockwise. Use the DEPTH SYMMETRY trimpot to adjust so that
you have a smooth volume transition between full turn clockwise and counter clockwise on the external DEPTH knob."

obviously the shouldn't affect bypass but maybe it rules out them as an issue


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 9:08 am 
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Yep, tried adjusting the trims.
Neither made a difference.


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 9:27 am 
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Stephen wrote:
It seems there have been quite a few people here recently that have had problematic stomp switches in their kits. Everyone should do a continuity check between all of the switch's poles and throws BEFORE proceeding with your build. Start by checking to see if you have continuity between lugs 1&2, 4&5 and 7&8. Before actuating the switch check to make sure that you do NOT have continuity between lugs 2&3, 5&6 and 8&9. Now actuate the switch and check to see if you have continuity between lugs 2&3, 5&6 and 8&9. Next, check to make sure that you do NOT have continuity between lugs 1&2, 4&5 and 7&8. Confirming that your switch is good prior to installing it will save you the headache of having to un-solder it later if you run into problems with your build.

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This was from a month or two ago. I'm sure it's in line with what Scott is referencing.


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 9:47 am 
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Carlinb17 wrote:
Stephen wrote:
It seems there have been quite a few people here recently that have had problematic stomp switches in their kits. Everyone should do a continuity check between all of the switch's poles and throws BEFORE proceeding with your build. Start by checking to see if you have continuity between lugs 1&2, 4&5 and 7&8. Before actuating the switch check to make sure that you do NOT have continuity between lugs 2&3, 5&6 and 8&9. Now actuate the switch and check to see if you have continuity between lugs 2&3, 5&6 and 8&9. Next, check to make sure that you do NOT have continuity between lugs 1&2, 4&5 and 7&8. Confirming that your switch is good prior to installing it will save you the headache of having to un-solder it later if you run into problems with your build.

Image


This was from a month or two ago. I'm sure it's in line with what Scott is referencing.


Switch is good. I check every switch before install bc I have come across a bad one here and there.


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 11:12 am 
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If there's no bypass, there's not a lot of places you could have a problem. In bypass, you should have continuity between the tip of the in jack and the tip of the out jack. If you don't have continuity, that means that you've either got a bad connection in your jack/foot switch wiring, or there's a problem with one of the jacks or foot switch. If you are getting continuity, but no bypass, that means something is shorted out to ground along the signal path. You can verify this by testing for continuity between the tip of either jack and ground.

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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 11:25 am 
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byoc wrote:
If there's no bypass, there's not a lot of places you could have a problem. In bypass, you should have continuity between the tip of the in jack and the tip of the out jack. If you don't have continuity, that means that you've either got a bad connection in your jack/foot switch wiring, or there's a problem with one of the jacks or foot switch. If you are getting continuity, but no bypass, that means something is shorted out to ground along the signal path. You can verify this by testing for continuity between the tip of either jack and ground.

Right on. I will do do some probing later on today and report back.
Thanks everyone!
~Troy


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 3:11 pm 
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Problem solved! I didnt even have to put the multi-meter on it.

As I was looking down the inside of the output jack, I noticed something fishy...it had 2 Ring posts and none for the tip! :roll:

Never seen this before! lol

Oh well! I slapped a new jack on there and now I got tunes!

Thanks guys!

~Troy
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 4:43 pm 
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Weird!! But good job finding that!

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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2020 3:38 am 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
Weird!! But good job finding that!
My thoughts exactly!

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