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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2020 9:43 am 
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Hi everyone. Just finished my BF Trem and, even when bypassed, the LED is on. It is very faint but definitely on. Other than that, the pedal works and sounds great.

I verified that it turns on as soon as I plug in the input jack - for both battery and power jack. I took it apart and pulled it out of the case in case something was touching and it still did it. Solder joints are good. The flux is not as bad as it looks in the pics. I don't see anything suspect but I thought I'd throw it on here in case I missed something.


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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2020 10:34 am 
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This will happen sometimes. It's usually because the 2N5089 transistor (Q4) doesn't turn it all the way off. You can resolder the connections at Q4, R14, and R15 to make sure you don't have a dodgy joint. Replacing the transistor often clears it up.

http://byocelectronics.com/brownfaceschematic.pdf

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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2020 10:53 am 
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Morgan wrote:
This will happen sometimes. It's usually because the 2N5089 transistor (Q4) doesn't turn it all the way off. You can resolder the connections at Q4, R14, and R15 to make sure you don't have a dodgy joint. Replacing the transistor often clears it up.

The joints for R14, R15, and the Q4 are solid. I don't have a 2N5089 transistor. I do have a 2N5088. Can I replace it with that?

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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2020 10:57 am 
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jajoyner wrote:
...I don't have a 2N5089 transistor. I do have a 2N5088. Can I replace it with that?

Sure, that's a very similar transistor. But don't be surprised if the LED still glows faintly. Seems to be a characteristic of this circuit. Mine has done this since day one.

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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2020 11:12 am 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
jajoyner wrote:
...I don't have a 2N5089 transistor. I do have a 2N5088. Can I replace it with that?

Sure, that's a very similar transistor. But don't be surprised if the LED still glows faintly. Seems to be a characteristic of this circuit. Mine has done this since day one.

In that case, I’ll leave it as is. Don’t want to mess with it for the same results. And it is very faint.

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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2020 3:25 pm 
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I have to say, I am really disappointed with this pedal. The positive: it sounds fantastic. It is a wonderful sounding pedal. The negative: the LED always being on is only mildly annoying as it is so dim I am OK with it. BUT, hitting the foot switch makes the loudest "CLUNK" of any pedal I've ever heard. Why? None of my other BYOC pedals do this. It is awful. Anyone else have this issue or is it just me?

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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2020 4:07 pm 
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My LED turns off and I haven't had switch pop.

Looking at the schematic, there is no pulldown resistor until after the input cap. So maybe your input cap is holding static DC. DVM will tell you to add a 1 meg to ground resistor at the circuit input. :P But here's the real dope - replace the wire from switch lug 5 to the pcb with a 1K resistor. Acts as a current limiting resistor without affecting the input impedance. Try it!

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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2020 10:14 am 
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You can add a pull down resistor and see if that helps. You'd stick a resistor between lugs 5 and 2. Something between 1M ~ 470k is usually good. You can go lower if you need.

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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2020 12:11 pm 
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byoc wrote:
You can add a pull down resistor and see if that helps. You'd stick a resistor between lugs 5 and 2. Something between 1M ~ 470k is usually good. You can go lower if you need.

So jumper lugs 2 and 5 with a resister. Is lower or higher better? I have both a 1M and a 470k.

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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2020 1:40 pm 
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jajoyner wrote:
byoc wrote:
You can add a pull down resistor and see if that helps. You'd stick a resistor between lugs 5 and 2. Something between 1M ~ 470k is usually good. You can go lower if you need.

So jumper lugs 2 and 5 with a resister. Is lower or higher better? I have both a 1M and a 470k.



That's right....jumper between 2 and 5. Higher is "better" because it keeps your input impedance higher. However, 470k is still plenty high. Most guitar effects are designed with a 470k input impedance. You can go lower than 470k as well without any adverse effects. You probably wouldn't notice anything until you start getting under 100k.

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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2020 8:49 am 
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byoc wrote:
That's right....jumper between 2 and 5. Higher is "better" because it keeps your input impedance higher. However, 470k is still plenty high. Most guitar effects are designed with a 470k input impedance. You can go lower than 470k as well without any adverse effects. You probably wouldn't notice anything until you start getting under 100k.

I jumpered lugs 2 and 5 with the 1M resistor and it did not help at all. The pops are just as loud. I verified I get 1M on the 2 lugs with the multimeter (when the pedal is engaged). Any other thoughts? I have 30+ BYOC pedals and none of them do this. I assume it's just the circuit for this guy.

My only other thought is to buy the relay switch mod - which BYOC is out of at the moment. Wonder if that will fix the LED always being on, too...

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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2020 10:50 am 
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Morgan wrote:
replace the wire from switch lug 5 to the pcb with a 1K resistor. Acts as a current limiting resistor without affecting the input impedance. Try it!

Try this. It’s worked for me before.

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2020 9:31 am 
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Morgan wrote:
Morgan wrote:
replace the wire from switch lug 5 to the pcb with a 1K resistor. Acts as a current limiting resistor without affecting the input impedance. Try it!

Try this. It’s worked for me before.

I’ll give this a try today and let you know how it goes.

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2020 10:45 am 
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Morgan wrote:
Morgan wrote:
replace the wire from switch lug 5 to the pcb with a 1K resistor. Acts as a current limiting resistor without affecting the input impedance. Try it!

Try this. It’s worked for me before.

This did not work either. Tho I will say it may actually be quieter when turning the pedal off. But when turning it on, it’s a loud pop. And I’m talking louder than plugging in a guitar.

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