Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hi all -

I have an older Tremola PCB that I'm trying to build and it doesn't match any posted on this page. It just says "BYOC 2006 Tremola" on it. It is basically square and has the two notched corners like the other older one posted but doesn't have the separate LED spot at top in between the 2n5457 transistor and the 10uf electrolytic. The trimmer pad also only has 3 holes for the larger trimmers and not the 5 holes to accomodate big or small.

Reason I am asking is I know the other version like this has a couple of spots that need to have the traces cut. Trying to figure out if I need to do same with this board. Also when I look on the archives page the V2 board link goes to "Page not found" (link broken ?). ... and the V1 board link goes to same page as the V3 board (bigger board with notch for stomp switch).

Thanks for any help !

This is the oldest version I can find: http://byocelectronics.com/treminstructionsrev2.1.pdf

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks. Yes that is the one with the LED pad which is close to mine but slightly different. I think mine is the previous version to that. I'll trace the schematic and see if I can figure out what is different besides the LED pad.

Mine looks like this.

So I convinced myself by tracing the two pcb layouts (the older one I have and the version 2.1 that is on the archives page) that the old one I have did not need any cuts or jumpers like the version 2.1 one.

I built it and not getting much effect (it is very subtle ... when notes decay I can just hear a little wobble going on). The depth pot doesn't seam to have much effect.
Couple of questions ... I checked the 2 2n5457 transistors that came with the kit and they were not well matched but my understanding is that unlike phasers, they do not need to be fo tremolos (??) Could that be the problem ?

Also there are a couple of unused small pads (2 adjacent to the trim pot and one down by the OUT/R3 pads... see picture above I posted). Are these supposed to be jumpered or connected to something ?

The effect does provide a boost when engaged and I was able to get the level back to unity with the trim pot ... so that part of circuit is working.

Thanks for any help.

That is a reasonable assumption, but since I never built that version and we don't have a copy of its instructions, I'll ask Keith/"byoc" to confirm.


Most likely either a misplaced component or a wonky solder connection. Suggest that you post a couple of good quality photos of your build--they need to be LARGE, well-lit, well-focused shots of BOTH sides of the PCB and all of the jack and switch wiring.


Those are called "vias" and they just connect a trace one one side of the PCB to one on the opposite side. No action required.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Sorry. I can't recall anything about that PCB version.

Other than a few component values, that circuit hasn't been changed in almost 20 years, so the current schematics could be used to trouble shoot or follow the traces. So just follow standard procedure. Post pics. We'll probably ask for voltages later.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

OK thanks so far ... Here are pictures of front and back.
I test in a test rig before boxing so not all Jack's etc. done yet but I can assure you the test rig is not the issue (I've tested lots of working circuits with it).

Also as I mentioned above the circuit does provide gain when engaged and I can control level with the trim pot and it is not distorted at all so that portion of the circuit seams fine.

Front

The LED is actually part of the circuit here, not just a status light. It blinks in time with the rate. You need to connect the SW1 and SW2 eyelets to complete the circuit.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com