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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 9:57 am 
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Howdy Forum,

I made the CB first time and it worked great! Thought it'd be fun to try and stuff it into an enclosure and make it a fully functioning pedal. I did tons of research on here and I'm pretty sure I found correct documentation.

Did it I follow it perfectly? No. I messed up and wired things backwards a couple times because I'm new to this. But I think I caught most of my mistakes and I'm not getting any sound when on or off, no LED, no nothing. Sadface :(

I followed these instructions:

viewtopic.php?f=40&t=21847

And this diagram:

http://buildyourownclone.com/board/view ... 40&t=26411

My biggest issues were any connections that had to be de-soldered from the original CB build as well as any connections that required multiple wires be soldered into one location. I'm pretty sure I have some bad connections in there and my soldering work is not nearly as pretty as I'd like it to be.

Also, I more or less faked it with the LED wiring. I followed the diagram but just did my best guess on how to attach it.

I really want to get this working and would be stoked if someone could help me out. I took a bunch of pics in hopes of getting some insight on here. Not sure if they are clear enough or detailed enough but maybe someone could point out any glaring errors. Sarcasm appreciated. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:06 am 
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You have the wire that should go to the jack's TIP lug connected to the RING lug in this photo...

Image

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:14 am 
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Thank you!

So lug 8 going to the out jack is in the wrong place?

I have it on the sleeve and it should go to the tip right?

And the tip is a couple over correct?

anything else?

I feel like my spatial awareness is being tested here.

and I'm failing


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:24 am 
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octa805 wrote:
Thank you!

So lug 8 going to the out jack is in the wrong place?

I have it on the sleeve and it should go to the tip right?

And the tip is a couple over correct?



Yes.

Yes.

Yes. The Tip Lug is opposite the Tip connection.

Also, you have the LED Backwards. The lead nearest the Flat edge of the LED is the Negative side, which goes to the switch. The Rounded side lead goes to the DC Jack.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:28 am 
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Thanks again.

that wouldn't explain why the LED doesn't work though right?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:45 am 
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Yes. The LED will NOT work if wired backwards. In fact, you may have "ruined" it. But try it the right way.

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My, that IS a big one!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:52 am 
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dcountry--my bad, I missed part of your comment the first time.

of course it won't work if wired backwards.

I meant, if it actually was wired correctly, would the wiring job I did suffice?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:17 pm 
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re-routed the outsleeve to the out tip and hooked it back up

I get some noise when the switch is turned on and the pot adjusts it! Good start but not quite there yet. It's insanely hissy and just doesn't sound like it should.

I get nothing when it's turned off other than a ton of hiss.

Still no LED and I checked the LED orientation and I believe it's actually correct. The flat side of the LED is hooked up to the switch.

I will go back and resolder everything tonight and I did my best to review the wiring and will go over it again but I think it's ok.

I really want to get this going and will gladly post more pics if someone can help me out. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 3:44 am 
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You still have the jack wired wrong. You have the "Output Sleeve" eyelet of the PCB connected to the TIP lug of the output jack. It should be connected to the center "Sleeve" lug of the jack. You still have the wire from the 2nd lug down on the left side of the stomp switch connected to the RING lug of the jack when it should be connected to the TIP lug.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 10:56 am 
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arghhhhhhhhhhhhhh

thank you very much


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 12:32 pm 
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I'm a child. Is this right? Thank you. Please berate me. I need and deserve it.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 12:36 pm 
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^^^^^^Right^^^^^^

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 12:41 pm 
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thank you.

I'm a moron


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 8:29 pm 
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IT WORKS!

Full sound on bypass and full sound when engaged. Pot works. All good stuff!

So simple but so hard when you're just figuring it out for the first time. Thank you very much everyone for the help & patience. I'm stoked.

One last thing. The LED.

Still not lighting up. The connection on the flat side of the LED is pointing towards the switch. The other side has the 4.7 resistor going to the DC jack. Is this correct? Is my wiring attempt correct? Did I fry it on my improperly wired first attempt? I don't know.

Here are some pics. Please let me know if you need more to diagnose. Thank you again.

Image
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 3:56 am 
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Your LED appears to be connected correctly. It may be toast. Do you have a DMM to check the voltage?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 10:52 am 
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I do not have a DMM but I can pick one up today.

Radio Shack version any good?

Or I could just get a couple new LEDs and see if that does it.

The issues I had with wiring were more about the audio path versus the actual power right? Why would that fry the LED?

Thanks again. I'm learning.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 5:31 pm 
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can I just test the LED on a 9v battery? Should be ok as long as I have the resistor in there right?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 9:44 am 
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I reflowed all the connections on in the LED path and still nothing.

I took out the LED and flashed it on a 9volt and it lit up so it's not the LED. I'm stumped.

Is there something in the switch wiring that I could have messed up?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:14 pm 
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someone? anyone?

I'm pulling my hair out


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 8:05 pm 
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hate to say it, octa, but if you connected the LED to directly to a 9v battery, even for about a second, you probably destroyed it. It doesn't take long. If you'd have held it there for about 3 seconds, it would have gotten so hot it would burn you, or possibly explode. :shock: :lol:

start fresh with a new LED. Make sure its LONG leg is connected to 9v+. Make sure its SHORT leg is connected to the switch. You can place your current limiting resistor (4.7k) on either side of the LED - it doesn't matter which. Do yourself a favor and be gentle with the board while you're hooking this up... I'd hate to have you bang it around and fracture a solder joint somewhere when you're this close!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 8:52 pm 
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I'll admit that I learned the hard way and blew up 2 LEDs doing my supersweet 9 volt test

they did light up though! for about a second before a burning smell permeated the room.

trying again right now with new radio shack parts and an LED

connecting the 2 wires at the + side of the DC jack is killing me. such a tight fit in there


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 9:31 pm 
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I got it to work

it's a miracle

thank you everyone.

Think my connection at the DC jack was the issue

I learned a lot

phew


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 10:05 pm 
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hey octa, a trick I use at the DC jack is to strip the first wire with an extra long end - like strip off 3/8" or more. Tin that, stick it thru and solder it in, then use a needlenose to bend the long lead into a loop. Now it'll be easy to add connections and you don't need to try cramming multiple wires thru that tiny hole.

Glad you got it working!

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I want Pterodactyl sounds dammit, not a nice little analog sustain.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:30 am 
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Thanks for the tip and all the help everyone.

now I have to figure out how to get this LED stuffed inside the LED bezel....


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 1:43 pm 
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octa805 wrote:
Thanks for the tip and all the help everyone.

now I have to figure out how to get this LED stuffed inside the LED bezel....


Ah yes the LED bezel, requires planning. You need to go without, or desolder the LED, put it in the bezel, then resolder :)

edit - by 'go without' I mean it's okay to put it in the hole about as far as you want it to stick through the hole, and hot glue it in place.

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