Build Your Own Clone Message Board

This is an entirely aesthetic-based desire, but I'd like to replace the Germanium Boost's range toggle switch with a three-position rotary switch. I'm not looking to do anything crazy like adding resistors or diodes - I just want to turn the range selector into another knob on the pedal's face.

Suggestions? I've never wired a rotary switch before, and I'm unsure which one would be best for this (it doesn't have to be a three-position switch, but it would have to be adjustable so I can limit the pot's travel to three positions). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This is certainly doable, but the issue you'll very likely run into is the size of the rotary switch and getting it to fit into the space between the PCB and the enclosure top. The toggle switch mounts directly into eyelets on the PCB, but the rotary switch will not. Therefore, if you want to use the same hole in the enclosure to mount the rotary switch (appropriately enlarged, if necessary), its depth would have to be shallow enough to avoid contact with the back of the PCB. I suspect that such a shallow rotary switch would be very difficult to locate. But Mouser has made a liar out of me before on such pronouncements.

Another alternative would be to rehouse the effect in a larger enclosure that would allow enough space for the rotary switch.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

There's a fair amount of extra room in the enclosure if I were to move the PCB down, so I was thinking that I could use standoffs to secure the board internally rather than soldering any of the pots or switches directly to the board.

Yeah, that could work because of the unusually large amount of unused space in that particular pedal. I'd get one of THESE switches, set the tang washer for 3 positions (it'll do 4 max.) and wire up just one of the three pole/throw combinations (e.g. pole A and throws 1, 2 and 3). The middle eyelet of the PCB switch location would go to the A pole. Throw 1 would have nothing connected to it. Throw 2 would connect to the outside switch eyelet, and throw 3 would go to the inside switch eyelet. That wiring would give you the treble boost in the first position of the rotary, add mids at the 2nd position, and the bass/full EQ range at the 3rd position.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Awesome. As always, thanks! I'll give it a shot.