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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2018 10:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 15, 2018 9:31 pm
Posts: 17
Second build ever. First was a bit of a lost cause but this one I think I'm about 70% there.

I connected it to test it out and I'm getting an overall weak signal. If the switch is in the mids setting, it has the most volume of the three. Full isn't getting anything and treble is barely there. When I switch the effect off, there is a signal going to my amp but it is extremely weak and I need to crank my amp to hear it.

I suspect this is to do with poor wiring. I made a shitshow of the footswitch initially and ended up redoing all the lugs. It's messy, but evidently, it works (Lug 9 came loose which freaked me out...I managed to reposition it during the second soldering job). For the input and output, this is probably the crux of the problem. See this Drive folder to see if my soldering of the wires sucks and I need to redo all of them: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1G5JM- ... c2LSut_fcP

The switch seems dodgy. It will move to the 'full' side but there is no discernable click and I suspect the switch may be squashed in some fashion underneath the PCB? Not sure on that one.

Overall, I'm satisfied I half got it working but I'm eager to complete the job before moving on to more BYOC kits. Looking forward to input from the community. Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 7:04 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 09, 2010 4:45 pm
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Location: Rochester, NY
You are correct that your wiring could use some work. I think offboard wiring is probably the hardest part for new builders to get right, especially with the stranded wire that BYOC provides. You have wires poking out in several places. I would trim those back. Next time you are making a wired connection, including if you try to redo these, it's important to have the wire make a good mechanical connection before soldering. In other words, it should be bent and crimped around the lug or jack, not just poking through. Twisting the strands tightly and tinning them with just a touch of solder will help with this, as will a small set of pliers.

If one of the lugs of the foot switch came loose, I would toss it. It's possible it's still working, but it won't last. You can order a new one from BYOC or maybe even get one from a forum member.

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 10:43 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 1:39 pm
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Location: Richland, WA
I don't think the switch is your problem. There may be something wrong with it and you will need to fix it if there is, but a faulty toggle switch shouldn't make it not work. It only puts the mids or full caps in parallel with the treble cap, so some signal should always be able to pass, so your description of the problem with the toggle switch is odd. A short caused by too much solder or a stray wire would be a more logical explanation. Also, keep in mind that when you do get it working, treble will be significantly quieter than full or mids. Full will be the loudest. Treble will still be a boost, but just not as loud as full. This is because "treble booster" is a bit of a misnomer. The treble boost uses a very small input cap to block all the bass and mids and just boosts the rest with a full range boost. The full input cap allows all of the frequencies to get boosted, so its going to sound much louder.

Anyhow...have you tried adjusting the bias trim pot yet?

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Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com


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