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PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 6:07 pm 
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Hey there, so here's where I'm at with my divided octave pedal:

In bypass, it works through both the output and the auxillary output.

With the effect engaged, it doesn't work through either. I get no sound or a slight slight buzz.

When I first plug in the power, the power LED comes on, which sounds like the common Q9 error I've read about, but it also flickers quite a bit. Eventually, as I'm testing it, it settles into being off or so dim I can't see it unless it's dark. If I unplug the power and plug it back in again, it starts the cycle over.

For the record, I'm using a solid Voodoo power supply that works with all my other pedals and tests pretty accurately.

Flipping the switches or switching the bass only effect on and off have no impact. The bass only light flickers very dimly, if at all, when switched on.

I tried to test my voltages on my ICs, but all of them fluctuate wildly from 0-1.something, seemingly in time with the brightness of the power light.

I did use my signal tracer just to see if I could learn anything, and I get signal on pins 5 and 6 of IC 1. All the others, no sound.

Does anyone have any thoughts? I've reflowed the board a couple times, checked with a magnifying glass (particularly on the footswitch wires), but I can't seem to figure it out. BTW, I took these pictures before I reflowed the joints. They all got dull after an alcohol cleaning, but got shiny again after a reflow.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 11:11 am 
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What kind of solder did you use? That looks lead-free to me, and I have not had ANY success with that stuff. I gets brittle and cracks and does not make electrical contact. I may be wrong, but if I'm right I would suggest clearing that of with solder wick and using lead-based solder. BTW, your soldering looks really good!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 11:48 am 
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thegrrraue wrote:
I tried to test my voltages on my ICs, but all of them fluctuate wildly from 0-1.something, seemingly in time with the brightness of the power light.

I did use my signal tracer just to see if I could learn anything, and I get signal on pins 5 and 6 of IC 1. All the others, no sound.

...BTW, I took these pictures before I reflowed the joints. They all got dull after an alcohol cleaning, but got shiny again after a reflow.

I agree with mmarsh. Perhaps an updated photo of the solder joints might help us have more faith in them. But the symptoms certainly sound like a bad solder joint. Sounds like perhaps power is not quite getting through. When things are working correctly, you should have 9 volts at pin 8 and -9 volts at pin 4 of all the 8-pin opamps (IC1-IC6).

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 12:57 pm 
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Are all of the IC's fully inserted into their sockets? A couple of the 4558's look "cocked" to me--not down flush to the socket on both sides.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 2:22 pm 
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Good eye, Bob! Also, check the right footswitch: it looks like the bare cable going from pin 6 to pin 7 is shorting on pin 5.

*EDIT* What kid of solder did you use?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 7:17 pm 
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I just checked my solder, and it is tin/lead with flux core (37% lead, I guess). Is that good?

I also did reseat all the ICs at some point. Here's a picture from today. They seem to be pretty solidly in to me, but take a look!

Also, looking at the bare wire, it doesn't seem to be shorting. I took a picture that's hard to tell, but it's definitely not touching anything.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 10:40 am 
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I would say verifying your power is your main concern at this point. Remove all the ICs, including the charge pump and test the voltage. You should be able to get 9v at all the socket pins where you are supposed to have 9v even without the charge pump, including pins 1/8 of the charge pump socket.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 3:19 pm 
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My power supply is testing rock solid, but yeah, even just measuring right at the power input jack, I'm getting a wildly inconsistent reading of about 3-5 volts.

I couldn't find a proper value list for what readings I should get at what pins on the IC sockets. Do you have one handy?

Also, which one is the charge pump? Sorry, I'm dumb.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 5:00 pm 
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IC7 at the top of the PCB is the charge pump chip.
Image

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 7:00 am 
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Here are the voltages from my DO build…

PS = 8.93VDC

IC1
1) -.012
2) 0
3) 0
4) -7.29
5) .064
6) .066
7) -.004
8) 8.18

IC2
1) .005
2) .005
3) .005
4) -7.29
5) .002
6) .008
7) .026
8) 8.18

IC3
1) .093
2) .093
3) .091
4) -7.29
5) .055
6) .056
7) .056
8) 8.19

IC4
1) -5.81
2) .012
3) .005
4) -7.30
5) 0
6) .005
7) -5.81
8) 8.18

IC5
1) -5.41
2) .035
3) .020
4) -7.3
5) 0
6) 1.04
7) -5.88
8) 8.18

IC6
1) -5.87
2) 7.2
3) 4.57
4) -7.29
5) .005
6) 7.27
7) 7.27
8) 8.17

IC7
1) 8.17
2) 4.39
3) 0
4) -3.34
5) -7.29
6) 2.54
7) 1.41
8) 8.16

IC8
1) 0
2) 8.15
3) 0
4) 0
5) 0
6) 0
7) 0
8) 0
9) 8.16
10) 0
11) 8.16
12) 8.16
13) 0
14) 8.15

IC9
1) 8.15
2) 8.15
3) 0
4) 8.14
5) 0
6) -5.78
7) 0
8) -5.78
9) -5.78
10) 8.15
11) 8.15
12) 8.15
13) -.60
14) 8.14

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 4:46 pm 
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Well, my readings are way off and all over the place. I took all the ICs out before measuring.

The ones with asterisks are where I picked a number that i saw frequently, but it is by no means accurate because the value was fluctuating wildly, as much as several volts up and down, never settling. Most of IC 3 and 4 were like this, as well as a few other places. Any thoughts?

PS = 9.05VDC

IC1:
1) .4
2) .22
3) 0
4) .7
5) .34
6) .49
7) .67
8) 8.35

IC2:
1) .42
2) .42
3) .32
4) .03
5) .11
6) .3
7) .21
8) 8.44

IC3:
1) 2.7*
2) 2.7*
3) 2.7*
4) .04
5) .9
6) 5.7*
7) 5.3*
8) 8.44

IC4*:
1) 3.9
2) 1
3) 1.22
4) .09
5) 0
6) .9
7) 2.9
8) 8.41

IC5:
1) .03
2) .06
3) .08
4) .04
5) 5.8
6) 7.52
7) 7.92
8) 8.41

IC6:
1) .18
2) .18
3) .07
4) .06
5) .06
6) .09
7) .1
8) 8.45

IC7:
1) 8.45
2) 8.04
3) 0
4) 7.85
5) .05
6) 1.06
7) 1.63
8) 8.41

IC8:
1) .44
2) .25*
3) 0
4) .29
5) 0
6) 1.68*
7) 0
8) 0
9) .62*
10) 0
11) .12
12) .45*
13) 7.6*
14) 8.45

IC9:
1) 6.9
2) 2.5*
3) .99
4) 2.6*
5) .94
6) .94*
7) 0
8) .73
9) .77
10) 7.25
11) 6.9
12) 7.25
13) 7.43
14) 8.45


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 5:08 pm 
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Don’t know what difference it will make but I took my measurements with all the chips installed.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 12:41 pm 
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It looks like you're getting normal +V and ground to all the necessary pins with the chips out. Plug the chips back in and take the voltages again. For now, you only need to be concerned with the +V supply pins, so that means pin 8 of all the op amps, pin 14 of the two larger chips, and pins 1/8 of the charge pump. You don't need to give us the readings of all the other pins.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 10:19 pm 
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ICs back in.

IC1:
8 - 2.05

IC2:
8 - 2.25

IC3:
8 - 2.25

IC4:
8 - 2.25

IC5:
8 - 2.25

IC6:
8 - 2.25

IC7:
1 - 2.25
8 - 6.0

IC8:
14 - 2.45

IC9:
14 - 2.45

Does this mean the charge pump IC is bad?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 4:01 pm 
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thegrrraue wrote:
ICs back in.

IC1:
8 - 2.05

IC2:
8 - 2.25

IC3:
8 - 2.25

IC4:
8 - 2.25

IC5:
8 - 2.25

IC6:
8 - 2.25

IC7:
1 - 2.25
8 - 6.0

IC8:
14 - 2.45

IC9:
14 - 2.45

Does this mean the charge pump IC is bad?


Probably not. It probably means one of the op amps is bad. BUt just for good measure, please take voltages again, but only with the charge pump installed. Remove all the other ICs. If you are getting ~8v on the respective positive voltage pins, add on chip at at time and take voltages until you find the chip that is causing the problem.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 2:48 pm 
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I added them back in 1 by 1, and it seemed that adding IC4 was when things went pear shaped.

I went to my local electronics store, and they gave me a Texas Instruments MC1450P (which they said was the same thing as the JRC 4458) and popped it in. Same problem.

Are these two ICs not, in fact, interchangeable? Or have we just identified the approximate area of issue on the board?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:10 pm 
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The 1450 should work. For the most part, any dual op amp will work for IC4. You need to look very very closely at the solder joints on the IC4 socket. Make sure there is nothing shorted out. Make sure there are tiny no pieces of wire clipping that got underneath the socket. In your pic, it looks like there is a strand of something between pin 8 of IC4 and a neighboring diode. It looks like it's just a hair, but pin 8 is the +V pin, so if it's conducting anything, that would be your problem.

edit: It's actually IC2 that has the strand of something touching its pin 8. Check that out and also look at IC4.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 10:10 pm 
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Yeah, that was a hair from my acid brush. I got rid of it, still no dice. I did a little brush-around and inspecting, but I still can't see anything that might be bridging anything. Here's a picture with IC4 in the middle on the back. Anyone see anything?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 2:56 pm 
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Acid brush?? Details, please!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 4:26 pm 
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So if you put in all of the ICs except for IC4, the voltages all check out? But as soon as you add IC4, that's when you get the voltage drop?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 4:29 pm 
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Yes, the voltages drop once IC4 is added.

My acid brush is a horsehair brush I use to clean the board with rubbing alcohol to remove excess flux and such. Like this: http://www.theengineerguy.com/core/medi ... 27790c753d


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 6:38 pm 
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Do you have another circuit you can plug your IC4 into to make sure the chip works?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 6:41 pm 
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I don't think I asked this already, but with IC4 out and all the other chips installed, do you also get about -8V at ll the pins where you should have -8V?

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 1:28 pm 
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I do not have another circuit I can test the chip on, but I have replaced it with a new one and I have the same result.

With all the other chips in except for IC4, I do get about 8 volts everywhere I should. Once I add IC4, it all goes downhill.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 1:11 pm 
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There must be something physically wrong at the IC4 socket. Maybe you have a tiny solder bridge you can't see. Maybe there is a tiny strand of wire clipping stuck under the socket (that's happened to me before). I would suggest very carefully desoldering the socket, removing it, and making sure everything is clear underneath.

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