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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 8:50 pm 
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So I have an old early 90s Crybaby that I put a dropin kit in. Finished wiring it up and no sound. Notes:
-Works fine on bypass
-With the switch on, there is continuity between the jacks (i.e., the ends of two guitar cables are electrically continuous)
-No sound at all when the switch is engaged (a few scratches when moving the buffer volume trimpot, but that's it)
-I'm wondering if I've got something wrong with my board connections to the switch. I'm using the alternate wiring provided by Stephen in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=33&t=57428. Like this:
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The way I have it wired now (using the numbers from the pic above),
-Lug 1 goes to the tip of the stereo jack
-Lug 2 goes to "in" on PCB
-Lug 3 goes to The sleeve of the stereo jack
-Lug 4 goes to "Out" on PCB
-Lug 5 goes to the tip of the mono jack
-Lug 6 is jumpered to lug 1

Wondering if maybe I have the in and out on the pcb reversed.

I'll post a bunch of pictures, but it's a little hard to follow all those purple wires.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 9:06 pm 
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 9:08 pm 
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TelZilla wrote:
-With the switch on, there is continuity between the jacks (i.e., the ends of two guitar cables are electrically continuous)

This is not what I would expect, although it's possible I just don't understand the different wiring setup. If the switch is engaged, you should definitely not have continuity from tip to tip—that's what you should get when bypassed. You said you're using a 3PDT, not a DPDT, right? A photo of your footswitch would be most helpful, I think.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 9:09 pm 
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 9:11 pm 
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 9:14 pm 
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sjaustin wrote:
TelZilla wrote:
-With the switch on, there is continuity between the jacks (i.e., the ends of two guitar cables are electrically continuous)

This is not what I would expect, although it's possible I just don't understand the different wiring setup. If the switch is engaged, you should definitely not have continuity from tip to tip—that's what you should get when bypassed. You said you're using a 3PDT, not a DPDT, right? A photo of your footswitch would be most helpful, I think.


Yeah, the kit comes with a 3pdt. But the wiring above is supposed tio cure pops when the switch is engaged.

Do I need to just get a dpdt. On the other thread I linked above I was asking about that, but maybe I wasnt clear.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 3:53 am 
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Either type of stomp switch will work. If you’re using a 3PDT but aren’t adding an LED the switch is wired exactly as it would be if it were a DPDT.

Your switch wiring may be spot on but that doesn’t mean the build doesn’t have a problem elsewhere. We need to see the solder side of the PCB. From the looks of your op-amp buffer you use way too much solder. You shouldn’t have a big ball of solder on any of your solder joints like you have on pin 6.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 7:08 am 
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Stephen wrote:
Either type of stomp switch will work. If you’re using a 3PDT but aren’t adding an LED the switch is wired exactly as it would be if it were a DPDT.

In case you didn't catch it when Stephen said it in the other thread (or for future readers who don't click through), the reason for this is that these switches are really 3 or 2 switches ("poles") that are operated ("thrown") simultaneously. 3PDT = triple pole, double throw. So on your 3PDT, lugs 1, 4, and 7 are like an additional switch that you don't happen to be using, because this switching scheme only requires two poles. The third pole in typical true bypass stomp box switching is for toggling the LED on whenever the signal is routed into the circuit. OK, explanations over. :mrgreen: (I'm never sure how much people are interested in this side of things, but I personally find it really helpful.) I wanted to see you switch to check that it was oriented correctly, which it looks like it is.

Follow Stephen's instructions for the next step of troubleshooting.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 11:46 am 
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TelZilla wrote:
sjaustin wrote:
TelZilla wrote:
-With the switch on, there is continuity between the jacks (i.e., the ends of two guitar cables are electrically continuous)

This is not what I would expect, although it's possible I just don't understand the different wiring setup. If the switch is engaged, you should definitely not have continuity from tip to tip—that's what you should get when bypassed. You said you're using a 3PDT, not a DPDT, right? A photo of your footswitch would be most helpful, I think.


Yeah, the kit comes with a 3pdt. But the wiring above is supposed tio cure pops when the switch is engaged.

Do I need to just get a dpdt. On the other thread I linked above I was asking about that, but maybe I wasnt clear.


Geez, I never said the problem had to be in the switch :oops: . The reason I was asking particularly about that is that's the only part I did differently than the directions, together with the confusion around one part's in being another part's out.

I'll post the reverse of the board when I get home.

At the risk of getting smacked down again, can you confirm that on the above switch diagram lug 4 goes to "out" on the board and 2 goes to "in" on the board?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 12:06 pm 
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Not trying to smack you down, sorry if it comes across that way. Sometimes it can be hard to tell what people are asking, but giving too much information can seem like a lecture you didn't sign up for. :)

TelZilla wrote:
Can you confirm that on the above switch diagram lug 4 goes to "out" on the board and 2 goes to "in" on the board?

Yes, you are reading the diagram correctly. Feel free to ignore the paragraphs below, which explain why, if you just want the answer and to move on, or if you already know what's going on. :mrgreen:

————————

When in the "on" position, lug 1 has continuity with lug 2, and 4 has continuity with 5. In the "bypass" position, 3 has continuity with 2, and 6 with 4. So you can see that in the on/up position, the signal comes in from the input jack, connects through the switch to the input of the PCB, where all the magic happens, then comes out of the PCB, where it will connect to the output jack through the switch.

When bypassed, the input jack has no continuity with the PCB through the switch; instead, the signal gets connected via the jumper to lug 6, which has continuity with the output jack via the switch's position.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 12:18 pm 
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sjaustin wrote:
Not trying to smack you down, sorry if it comes across that way. Sometimes it can be hard to tell what people are asking, but giving too much information can seem like a lecture you didn't sign up for. :)

TelZilla wrote:
Can you confirm that on the above switch diagram lug 4 goes to "out" on the board and 2 goes to "in" on the board?

Yes, you are reading the diagram correctly. Feel free to ignore the paragraphs below, which explain why, if you just want the answer and to move on, or if you already know what's going on. :mrgreen:

————————

When in the "on" position, lug 1 has continuity with lug 2, and 4 has continuity with 5. In the "bypass" position, 3 has continuity with 2, and 6 with 4. So you can see that in the on/up position, the signal comes in from the input jack, connects through the switch to the input of the PCB, where all the magic happens, then comes out of the PCB, where it will connect to the output jack through the switch.

When bypassed, the input jack has no continuity with the PCB through the switch; instead, the signal gets connected via the jumper to lug 6, which has continuity with the output jack via the switch's position.


Ha. That's one of those things I have known and forgotten about twenty times in my life. Like what a Long-tail Phase inverter is, or what pins are the grid on a 6V6...


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 7:57 pm 
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A few glamour shots of the reverse of the board
Attachment:
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 7:59 pm 
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Attachment:
IMG_1547.JPG
IMG_1547.JPG [ 137.17 KiB | Viewed 10228 times ]


Anything look off? Maybe the power jack?

The fact that there's no sound at all with the switch engaged makes me think something is grounded that shouldn't be, maybe?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 3:35 am 
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These photos are a little on the small side. Something closer in size to your previous photos would be better. I personally can’t see the kind of detail I need to see to inspect the quality of your soldering in these. Photos without glare from the flash would also help.

You can check the adapter jack by taking voltage readings. Connect power to the pedal, insert a plug in the input jack and use your multi-meter to take a voltage reading at pin 7 of the op-amp.
Image

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 8:10 am 
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Have you tried reflowing your solder joints already? There are a few of them that look a little dodgy (possible solder bridges as well as blobs indicating a cold joint). I would also clean up the board, as suggested by duhvoodooman in your Crown Jewel thread, because I see a couple of the same issues he mentioned.

Make sure you're cleaning and tinning your iron tip regularly as you build, and especially as you go through and reflow the solder during troubleshooting.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 8:16 am 
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More Pix
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 8:18 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 9:35 am 
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I would start by cleaning these up. I don't like how the solder doesn't seem to have bonded around the wire. This can be prevented in the future by tinning the wire all the way up to the wire insulation. The two together are the in and out, FWIW.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 11:57 am 
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I would definitely clean up the solder "splash" I see at various points around the board, and also gently scrape off some of that discolored solder mask in the regions of heaviest build-up. The area around the op amp socket pins looks particularly bad to me. The only place on the board that you should see solder is on the eyelet pads themselves--any that spills over onto the PCB should be removed.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 3:01 pm 
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So I checked connectivity (with a multimeter) on those joints from the component they came from to the right spot on the trace on the reverse of the PCB. They showed perfect connectivity buy I re-flowed them anyway.

I did find one thing that seems peculiar to me. While tracing the paths on the back of the board, I noticved that the "out" lug didn't seem to be connected to anything. Check out this picture (a detail from one of the ones above):
Attachment:
Reverswe of Board.png
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The "out" lug/turret/whatever the right term is, if you follow the trace, stops at the tiny hole indicated in the lower part of the picture. to help orient yourself on the board, this tiny hole is right by the 4.7uF Capacitor. I think the trace on the front of the board carries to the Z hole, which is jumpered to the X hole and so on, but I just wondered why there was a hole there or if I needed to add a jumper or something.

I'm really kind of trying to trace the signal path an connectivity between the components, but I'm not great at applying a schematic to a PCB.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 3:05 pm 
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Those tiny holes are called “vias”, and as I understand it, they make connections from the top side traces to the bottom side ones. You don’t need to do anything with them, although obviously they can be helpful if you’re tracing the circuit.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 3:13 pm 
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sjaustin wrote:
Those tiny holes are called “vias”, and as I understand it, they make connections from the top side traces to the bottom side ones.

^ Exactly.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 8:00 am 
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Hi there, I'm new here and having the same exact problem with my wah kit. Curious if this issue was ever solved and what was the culprit.

I've been troubleshooting and coming up empty on the source of the problem. Continuity from switch, input jacks is all good. voltage from input jack and the battery line is good. More to check on my end, but my problem sounded very to similar to the OP....any resolution?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 8:18 am 
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Unless the OP posts that the problem has been resolved and how, we don't know either.

We try to avoid "piggy-backing" multiple problems in a single thread because of how many common problems turn out to have different causes. So please start a new support thread, describing your problem as specified here: viewtopic.php?f=33&t=6103

The photos are critically important and need to be LARGE, well-lit and well-focused.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 8:56 am 
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Understood. I'll do some additional solder touch up and get better pics for a new thread.

Thank you!


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