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Hi,
This is about my 10th pedal build plus some recording stuff.

Bypass switch - flickers when you switch between on and off. Fades when you turn mix or tone
Bass only switch - Turns on and off/doesn't affect ringing or tone
Stabalizer - Changes ringing tone slightly
Ringer - Flickers when you switch it, Changes tone slightly
tone knob - seems to sweep high pitch squeel
Mix Knob - changes volume of high pitch squeel

My guitar tone Comes through fine. I just need to eliminate this squeel. I read about 10 pages worth of octave decider issues and checked a bunch of common issues I saw.. I double checked my Switch wiring...

Please help
Thanks in advance.
N

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4h4qbh6akim0s0x/2015-01-26%2015.57.11.jpg?dl=0

Hi - welcome to the forum!

I'm having trouble understanding the what the pedal actually does. Can you be more specific? The quote below is from one of the "how to ask for help" threads, Please fill in the gaps.




What do you mean by "flickers"? Is the LED flickering on and off?

_________________
MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

The pedal is a octave up or octave down doubler modelled after the mu-tron octave devider.
I've triple checked all my footswitch/power/jacks/pot wiring and its all correct.

When the pedal is bypassed my guitar tone is clear but there is a slight ringing in the background.
When you enable the pedal my guitar tone disappears and the ringing gets significantly louder.
When the Low bypass switch is engaged the ringing gets quieter and my tone comes back. Turning the mix and tone pots also seem to affect how dim/bright the bypass LED shines. Im not sure if thats normal.

The ringer and stabilizer switches don't change much. The stabilizer makes the ringing sound more like quick pulses as opposed to a steady sound.

If needed I can make a quick video of it doing all of this.
I was hoping it was a common issue

Thanks for the help so far.
See Pictures below:

Front and back pictures and a link to the schematic



http://byocelectronics.com/dividedoctaveinstructions.pdf

Yes, I know what the pedal is and does. I was having trouble understanding what your symptoms were from your first post. Thank you for clearing that up.

Pull the 4013 chip from its socket and let me know if the ringing stops. If it does not, pull the 4011 chip and reinstall the 4013. If it still rings, try pulling both of those chips. If that does nothing, try pulling the MAX1044. See if you can determine what is causing the ringing. Note - pulling the MAX1044 will make no signal pass through the pedal. Pulling either the 4013 or 4011 will disable the low octave but keep the dry signal and the ringer circuit working.

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

Im sorry,
I didn't see you were a moderator and I just answered both ways you could have been asking. Thats embarrassing....

When I take out the 4013 chip there is still ringing.
When I take out the 4011 chip the ringing is gone.
When I take out the max 1044 No signal passes and the ringing is gone.

Thanks for your help.

Okay, good - that gives us something to look at.

What does the pedal do when you play through it without the 4011 installed? I'm assuming that you still get no signal, but without the ringing, correct?

And what happens when you plug into the aux out jack?

What should happen when you pull the 4011 in a properly working pedal is the low octave should disappear but you should still get dry guitar tone through in effect mode as well as upper octave when the ringer is switched on. For troubleshooting purposes, it's best to break this circuit into pieces, so leave the lower octave part disabled. If you are not getting any signal through, then you have a bad solder joint or a misplaced resistor or cap value somewhere in the signal path.

The best way to locate that is by using a BYOC signal tester or a DIY audio probe. You would put the pedal into effect mode and probe the signal path to locate where the signal stops. If you don;t have either of those tools, I would reflow your solder joint a few times to try and correct any bad joints (which can often look just fine).

The signal paths are as follows:

Dry path: R1 > IC1 pin7 > IC2 pin1 > IC2 pin 7 > R9 > R11 > R12 > tone pot > mix pot

Wet/mixed signal path: R18 > Q1 > D2/D3 > Q2 > R30/R31 > IC1 pin1 > R35 > Bass only lug 7 > Bass only lug 8 > Bypass lug 8 > bypass lug lug 9 > tip of the output jack

_________________
MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

Hi,
I made a mistake. It was the 4013 that made the ringing stop. Not the 4011

When the 4013 installed - Ringing. Weak Tone coming through.
When The 4013 Removed - When low is engaged tone disappears. When Enabled guitar tone comes through fine
tone,mix, switches don't do anything.

When I use the aux jack I get the Exact same results as the Output jack.

Where can you buy audio probes? What does it do different then a meter?

Before we move forward, I want to make sure that the ringer circuit is working, or get that part fixed.


Removing the 4013 kills the low octave. That should leave the ringer circuit. Do you have any experience using a green ringer circuit? It can be a bit subtle. If you play through the neck pickup, roll your guitar volume back a tick, and fret around the 12th fret, you should get a fairly prominent upper octave. Is that the case with your pedal when the ringer switch is flipped to the right?


These only effect the low octave, so they won't work until that part of the circuit is working.


The aux jack takes the clean signal before it is sent to the ringer and low octave circuits. When the ringer circuit works, the aux out should actually sound different from the effect out.

Where can you buy audio probes? What does it do different then a meter?[/quote]
You can buy one from BYOC: http://buildyourownclone.com/products/signaltester

Or you can make your own from misc parts: http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/audioprobe.jpg

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker