Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Tip of the input jack

I think it’s time for some photos. Without them we’re just taking shots in the dark.

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"It’s your soldering."

Yep, was just thinking the same thing EXACTLY. Please make them large, well-focused and well-lit. Need to see the jack and footswitch wiring clearly, as well as the PCB.

Re: the signal dropout, you have signal in bypass, so the input jack must have signal in that mode (you may want to confirm that, to insure that your signal tester is working properly). If there is no longer signal there when you switch to the engaged mode, it would imply a signal short to ground somewhere between lug 1 of the footswitch and IC1 pin 5.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I'll get some photos up in a bit, let me just restate that I had this pedal and my pedalboard for a couple years now, never had a problem with it and all of a sudden it just went dead, nothing when the effect is engaged, nothing from the auxiliary jack either, no change in sound at all when the pots are turned or any positions any of the switches are in…

The focus of the solder side pic could be better. Even so I see several dome shaped solder joints which are often an indication of a cold joint. It also appears that I can still see the solder pads in a few places. A good solder joint will normally cover the entire solder pad. I also see little pigtails of component lead sticking thru the solder joints that should be cut off at the top of the solder joint. There shouldn’t be any lead sticking out of the tops of the joints.

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"It’s your soldering."

I resoldered every connection on the board, it's the first thing I did, I've gone back and gone over this thing with a magnifying glass, it definitely doesn't appear to be my soldering, like I said this pedal worked fine for two years hundreds of gigs, I'm thinking a component has crapped out on me just trying to figure out which one…

DVM is hitting the nail on the head here. You have signal in bypass, so the jack and some of the switch connections must be working fine. If you aren't getting signal from the tip of the input jack, you need to verify a few things:
- Make sure you are actually testing the tip of the input jack and not the output jack or aux jack. Sometimes it can be easy to get confused when you flip the pedal over and look at it upside down.
- Test for signal at the tip of the input jack in bypass. If you do not get signal there in bypass, then that means something is wrong with your signal tester. In bypass, if you get signal to the output when you have the pedal hooked up normally, you should get signal with your signal tester at the tip of the input jack > footswitch lug 2 > FS lug 3 > tip of both the aux jack and output jack.

If you do get signal at the tip of the input jack in bypass but not in effect mode, that means exactly what DVM said; you have a short somewhere between FS lug 1 and IC1 pin 5. That would mean that the FS is not making its internal connection between FS lugs 1 and 2, the wire from FS lug 2 to PCB pad 2 is bad or has a bad solder joint on it, or one of the input components (R101, R1, R2, C1, C2) is bad or has a short.

Another thing to check is remove IC1 from its socket and re-test for signal at the tip of the input jack and at IC1 pin 5.

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

Do you get signal in bypass from the aux jack? Not getting signal in bypass from the aux jack but getting bypass signal from the output jack would indicate a problem with the bypass footswitch.

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

Just curious: Can you correlate the cessation of the pedal's function to any event? E.g. dropping the pedal, changing it's position in your pedal chain, changing power supplies, an electrical problem in the house/building where the pedal was last working, etc?

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I get the signal in bypass from both the output jack in the auxiliary jack, no I used the pedal at a gig everything was fine, went to use it at my next gig and it was dead, it's kept on a nice secure pedalboard in a padded bag and nothing traumatic happened to it

Still trying to solve this riddle, purchased a new set of IC's, as soon as I replaced the MAX 1044 the pedal came back to life but that IC immediately got VERY hot, also replaced the 4001, still VERY hot and pedal not working quite right (but it is passing a signal when switched on), suggestions?

Excess heat like you describe is diagnostic of a power short somewhere. Look very carefully for any protruding strands of wire, solder bridges between non-connected eyelets, solder "splash" on the PCB, etc.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

a more in focus pic of the solder side would really help

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Doh! Stupid Diode

I have gone over the entire board, cleanly resoldered everything, inspected with magnifying glass, no bridges anywhere, could there be a bad component making that IC get so hot? Again, this pedal worked fine for well over a year, just stopped one day without incident....

If the 1N4001 and the 1044 are getting hot I would check to make sure that the power supply’s output is DC and is center pin negative.

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"It’s your soldering."

Yes, 9 v dc, center negative...

It's possible that you've got a parasitic short to ground somewhere that isn't affecting the way the circuit works, but is drawing too much current. Specifically, along the negative power rail, since that negative voltage is the only thing the MAX1044 is actually outputting. There are only a few places that connect to it. Pin 4 of the six op amps, and the 100k and 220k resistors on the left side of the PCB

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*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com