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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2022 6:23 pm 
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Just completed the build and it seems to working pretty well, cuts out a little when not driving it hard and a little more distorted than I expected. All switches and knobs work.

The the issue is the Bypass LED is not working. I've done some testing on it with the following results.

Resistance to ground, infinite for both terminals.
Resistance between terminals, infinite.
Powered on voltage
- referenced to ground, 0v for both terminals
- referenced to power, -7.55 on square, -9.22 on round terminals

I can send pictures if that helps.

Also, the Bass Only LED can be turned on and off, regardless of the position of the bypass switch. I don't know if that is expected.

Thanks,
Ed


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2022 10:57 am 
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Please post pics.

The bass only LED is independent, so that is normal.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2022 1:10 pm 
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Pictures added below. Another thing about this LED install. I accidentally installed a cap in the LED location, and had to remove it and clean off the solder before installing the LED. When taking pictures, I noticed it looked like the ground side might be a cold solder, which I resoldered. The ohms are reduced to ground, but still over 10k. I wonder if I damaged the pad when removing solder, thus making a bad connection to ground. If that is the case, I suppose I could run a wire to the ground leg of the diode to a nearby ground connection?? I am just shooting in the dark. Hopefully the below pictures will help. Thanks, Ed


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2022 1:44 pm 
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Files in correct format :)


Attachments:
IMG_4804.jpg
IMG_4804.jpg [ 639.47 KiB | Viewed 1375 times ]
IMG_4807.jpg
IMG_4807.jpg [ 550.89 KiB | Viewed 1375 times ]
IMG_4808.jpg
IMG_4808.jpg [ 476.52 KiB | Viewed 1375 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2022 1:45 pm 
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And more pictures


Attachments:
IMG_4801.jpg
IMG_4801.jpg [ 501.95 KiB | Viewed 1375 times ]
IMG_4802.jpg
IMG_4802.jpg [ 634.22 KiB | Viewed 1375 times ]
IMG_4803.jpg
IMG_4803.jpg [ 487.61 KiB | Viewed 1375 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2022 2:14 pm 
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Has the square solder pad for the green LED become disconnected from the trace on the bottom side of the PCB?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2022 3:05 pm 
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Unfortunately, I cannot tell visually. Any other ways to tell?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2022 5:48 pm 
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I've been looking at the schematic and found the LED circuit. I checked the resistance from the 1K resistor to the square LED pad and it is open. I must have fried the pad off when removing the cap I mistakingly installed there (got cocky and was moving too fast). So there is no path to +V. Is there a remedy for this? The only thing I can think of is to take some wire and connect it to the leg of the resistor on the component side of the PCB and snake it around to the soldering side and connect to the leg of the LED. Seems pretty kludgy, but I think it should work. Any other ideas??
Thanks,
Ed


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2022 10:54 am 
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Garster123 wrote:
I've been looking at the schematic and found the LED circuit. I checked the resistance from the 1K resistor to the square LED pad and it is open. I must have fried the pad off when removing the cap I mistakingly installed there (got cocky and was moving too fast). So there is no path to +V. Is there a remedy for this? The only thing I can think of is to take some wire and connect it to the leg of the resistor on the component side of the PCB and snake it around to the soldering side and connect to the leg of the LED. Seems pretty kludgy, but I think it should work. Any other ideas??
Thanks,
Ed


That's exactly how you do it. You could scrape a little bit of the green solder mask off the trace in question and solder a repair wire to the trace rather than the next component pad, so it would be a little less invasive, but ultimately, the same concept - creating continuity between that LED solder pad and the north end of that 1k resistor.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2022 4:59 pm 
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Well, before starting the surgery, I thought I would test the fix by creating a jumper with a small alligator clip one the square side lead on the LED and touch the "north side" of the resistor. The LED never lit in either bypass switch position. I am at a loss on what to try next. Potentially the LED itself is not working, in addition to the open in the PCB??


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2022 10:22 am 
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What voltage do you get on the south side of the 1k LED limiting resistor for both on and bypass states.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2022 1:58 pm 
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I get 8.46v on the 1k resistor, regardless whether it's in bypass or ON mode.
I also checked the voltages at other nodes and it appears all nodes (sources/drains, emitter/collectors, are 0v.
I then check all the posts on both the "Bass Only" and "Bypass" switches, all were 0v. Is this expected??
I checked the voltages at the charge pump outputs; V+ 8.46v, V- 7.6v (I don't remember the V- exactly, it may have been 7.8v)

Hopefully this helps and thank you for your help in trying to resolve this.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2022 11:09 am 
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Garster123 wrote:
I get 8.46v on the 1k resistor, regardless whether it's in bypass or ON mode.
I also checked the voltages at other nodes and it appears all nodes (sources/drains, emitter/collectors, are 0v.
I then check all the posts on both the "Bass Only" and "Bypass" switches, all were 0v. Is this expected??
I checked the voltages at the charge pump outputs; V+ 8.46v, V- 7.6v (I don't remember the V- exactly, it may have been 7.8v)

Hopefully this helps and thank you for your help in trying to resolve this.



Now confirm that you are getting 8.46V on the square pad of the LED.

The BS170 acts as a sort of on/off switch. If you are indeed getting voltage to the anode of the LED, then either the BS170 isn't getting switched "on" or it is faulty. Remove the wire from the "9" eyelet. This should turn the LED permanently on. If it doesn't turn on, measure the voltage at the middle eyelet of the BS170

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2022 3:01 pm 
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I created a jumper between the south end of the 1k resistor and square leg of the LED, Verified the leg saw the 8.45v. I disconnected the 9 eyelet, still no LED action. Measuring the gate of the BS170, I see about 32mV. I also check the round side of the diode, which was 0v, which surprised me. I assume that means the diode is an open. I measured these measurements between gnd and each leg of the diode.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2022 11:34 am 
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The problem lies somewhere with the BS170, the diode, or the 2N3904. Ultimately, the problem is that the Gate of the BS170 isn't seeing a "high" voltage to tell the Drain to connect to the Source, which is connected to ground and complete the LED circuit. It's stuck in a "low" state.

I don't think the problem is with the diode. I'd be more inclined to think it was either an internal short in the 2N3904 which would cause 0v at the gate (and the round end of the diode) or an internal short in the BS170.

Do you have a spare 2N3904?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2022 4:27 pm 
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Sorry, I miss wrote my connection in my last post. I meant to say that the LED had 8.46v on the square side and 0v on the round side, thus it appears open. I didn’t do any measurements to the other diode. All the rest in my post was correct. Sorry for the confusion.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2022 5:07 pm 
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Garster123 wrote:
Sorry, I miss wrote my connection in my last post. I meant to say that the LED had 8.46v on the square side and 0v on the round side, thus it appears open. I didn’t do any measurements to the other diode. All the rest in my post was correct. Sorry for the confusion.


That doesn't change what I posted last. I still think you have a short in the 3904

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2022 11:23 pm 
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Thanks, I don't see a 3904 transistor in the Bypass LED circuit, only Q9(BS170) and Q8(5088), where is the 3904 located? Also, I don't understand why the LED can have 8.46v across its terminals, without it lighting up. What am I missing. thanks again for your help. Ed


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2022 11:30 am 
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Sorry. Q8 is what I was talking about. 5088 and 3904 are interchangeable.

I thought you said D8 had 0V on the anode (round eyelet)?

I don't know. One of them is probably faulty. Let's just replace the 3 components involved in the LED switching. Please contact sales@buildyourownclone.com and request replacement 1N4148, 2N5088, and BS170.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2022 6:23 pm 
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I received the two transistors, diode, and LED and replaced them as suggested. When removing the original components from the board, I saw that both LED pads were gone. I installed the new devices and ran wire from each lead of the LED, one to the BS170 and then other to the 1k resistor, and presto, It works!! I didn't destroy anything more so I am now 100% functional.

I am very happy with the Octave Divider pedal, it really opens up new voicing on my playing. :lol:

Thank you very much for all your help and bearing with me in the back and forth of debug!!
Cheers,
Ed


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2022 11:14 am 
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Garster123 wrote:
I received the two transistors, diode, and LED and replaced them as suggested. When removing the original components from the board, I saw that both LED pads were gone. I installed the new devices and ran wire from each lead of the LED, one to the BS170 and then other to the 1k resistor, and presto, It works!! I didn't destroy anything more so I am now 100% functional.

I am very happy with the Octave Divider pedal, it really opens up new voicing on my playing. :lol:

Thank you very much for all your help and bearing with me in the back and forth of debug!!
Cheers,
Ed


Good job sticking with it. I know it can be frustrating sometimes.

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