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 Post subject: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:48 am 
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I'm sure this has been done, but this is my first non kit build and first time trying to draw anything up from a schematic. I used the schematic dragonfly posted here. I know this is super easy, but I feel like this was a big step. I didn't look at anyone's layout or finished build.

Anyways, without further ado:

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I got confused by the transistor and pot, so I'm not sure that those are right. I'd definitely appreciate some of you guys having a look at this to verify it. Thanks!
-shane


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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:03 am 
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The transistor in the SHO is a MosFET, so the pins should be labeled GSD instead of BCE. Google for the BS170 data sheet to get the proper pin orientation for the layout. Otherwise, it look correct to me on first glance. 8)

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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:07 am 
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culturejam wrote:
The transistor in the SHO is a MosFET, so the pins should be labeled GSD instead of BCE. Google for the BS170 data sheet to get the proper pin orientation for the layout. Otherwise, it look correct to me on first glance. 8)


Thanks man. But..I don't know what that means? GSD?
-shane


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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:14 am 
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Gate, Source, Drain. Now to figure out which is which.

So after looking at the data sheet, schematic, and layout for a few minutes..Is it as simple as replacing BCE with GSD in that order. B becomes G, C becomes S, E becomes D? So, purely a semantics issue and not an issue of incorrect layout?
-shane


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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:03 pm 
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snizzle wrote:
Gate, Source, Drain. Now to figure out which is which.

So after looking at the data sheet, schematic, and layout for a few minutes..Is it as simple as replacing BCE with GSD in that order. B becomes G, C becomes S, E becomes D? So, purely a semantics issue and not an issue of incorrect layout?
-shane

Actually, B is kinda like G, C is kinda like D, and E is kinda like S. :lol:

The "drain" pin is normally connected in some fashion to the power supply, while "source" is generally connected in some fashion to ground.


A few months back, I considered doing an eyelet/turret layout for the SHO. The reason I didn't is because the leads on a BS170 are very short, and you'll probably need to solder on extension wire to the leads to make the reach where they need to connect. Not *that* hard to do, but it take a steady hand and some patience.

I've been considering doing some eyelet boards with extra eyelets grouped close together for directly soldering transistors.

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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:07 pm 
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Thanks for the clarification. Still confused though. Do I have it the tranny wired right, because it doesn't seem to correlate to your definitions...help?

So, I need to switch the wires going to my "C" and "E"?
-shane


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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:11 pm 
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culturejam wrote:
A few months back, I considered doing an eyelet/turret layout for the SHO. The reason I didn't is because the leads on a BS170 are very short, and you'll probably need to solder on extension wire to the leads to make the reach where they need to connect. Not *that* hard to do, but it take a steady hand and some patience.

I've been considering doing some eyelet boards with extra eyelets grouped close together for directly soldering transistors.


I wondered why I couldn't find any eyelet layouts for the SHO. I've got some material for eyelet boards laying around, but no perf. I think I'm going to head to radio shack for perf and breadboard and try to make one on perf and on eyelet this weekend.
-shane


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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:20 pm 
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snizzle wrote:
Thanks for the clarification. Still confused though. Do I have it the tranny wired right, because it doesn't seem to correlate to your definitions...help?

So, I need to switch the wires going to my "C" and "E"?
-shane

Yes, you need to change the wiring to the leads of the tranny.

Also, you've got the Base/Gate lead towards the bottom. In a BS170, the Gate is the middle lead.

Take a look at the graphical representation on the datasheet again. :wink:

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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:48 pm 
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culturejam wrote:
snizzle wrote:
Thanks for the clarification. Still confused though. Do I have it the tranny wired right, because it doesn't seem to correlate to your definitions...help?

So, I need to switch the wires going to my "C" and "E"?
-shane

Yes, you need to change the wiring to the leads of the tranny.

Also, you've got the Base/Gate lead towards the bottom. In a BS170, the Gate is the middle lead.

Take a look at the graphical representation on the datasheet again. :wink:


Thanks man. I thought all data sheets would be the same, but the first one I looked at was awful. The second one was exactly what I needed and cleared up my confusion.

I've got it fixed now, and I'll post it again later if anyone is interested. I'll build it this weekend to verify.
-shane


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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 4:33 pm 
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I also realized that I didn't ground the output resistor. So, I should connect the other side of the resistor to ground (Bottom eyelet 4 to bottom eyelet 2) and then run a jumper between the output and where that resistor was (bottom eyelet 4 to bottom eyelet 3), correct?
-shane


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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 9:53 pm 
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OK, I fixed the tranny and grounded the output resistor. How's it look now?

Image
-shane


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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:57 am 
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Two problems - the FET and the output:

Let's label the eyelets top row -11,12.13,14 bottom row 21,22,23,24.

You've orientated your FET properly. The drain goes to 14, The gate goes to 13, The source goes to the pot - lug 3

Remove the jumper between 23 and 24. Run the 100k resitor from 24 to 22 (ground) re-label 24 as "Out". 23 isn't used.

As a word of encouragement - doing your own layouts (eyelet, perfboard, stripboard) requires practice, practice and more practice. Do as many different layouts (start with the "simple ones" first) on different types of board as you can, post them for verification and critique - there's always someone around who will lend a second pair of eyes.

A personal challenge - if you're willing to accept !

Try the same circuit on stripboard either hand drawn or, even better, using DIY Layout Creator (no peeking at other stripboards !!!!)


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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:47 am 
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tonmann wrote:
Two problems - the FET and the output:

Let's label the eyelets top row -11,12.13,14 bottom row 21,22,23,24.

You've orientated your FET properly. The drain goes to 14, The gate goes to 13, The source goes to the pot - lug 3

Remove the jumper between 23 and 24. Run the 100k resitor from 24 to 22 (ground) re-label 24 as "Out". 23 isn't used.

As a word of encouragement - doing your own layouts (eyelet, perfboard, stripboard) requires practice, practice and more practice. Do as many different layouts (start with the "simple ones" first) on different types of board as you can, post them for verification and critique - there's always someone around who will lend a second pair of eyes.

A personal challenge - if you're willing to accept !

Try the same circuit on stripboard either hand drawn or, even better, using DIY Layout Creator (no peeking at other stripboards !!!!)


Thanks a lot man. I really needed another set of eyes on this one. After I drew it I realized the second problem with the output, and tried to use the jumper as a quick fix. I have been having a really hard time with the transistor layout though. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

I sat down to do this on perf a couple of days ago and really struggled with it. This is a pretty straightforward circuit, so I thought it would be good to test it on different types of boards (as you suggest). But, I think I'm going to have to go back to the drawing board for perf. I found eyelets a lot easier to draw layouts for.

Also, I should probably weigh in the fact that I've never built on perf or eyelet. Just kits and PCBs. Perhaps I should try out someone elses verified project to get the feel for the different board types before I try my own.

It definitely is a lot of fun drawing these up though. My wife thinks I'm crazy.
-shane


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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:44 pm 
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snizzle wrote:
But, I think I'm going to have to go back to the drawing board for perf. I found eyelets a lot easier to draw layouts for.


One thing which may help is to stop thinking of perf and eyelet builds as being in any way different. If you can draw/build eyelet you can definitely convert that to perfboard, just ignore all of the other (smaller) holes and build it exactly the same way! My first "eyelet" build was CultureJam's Muff Fuzz for eyelet, but all I had was perf, so:

Image

It's ugly, but it works!!

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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:14 pm 
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rnagoda wrote:
If you can draw/build eyelet you can definitely convert that to perfboard, just ignore all of the other (smaller) holes and build it exactly the same way!

Yep. I test all of my eyelet builds on perf first. 8)

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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:52 pm 
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Nice. Thanks guys. I'll give this a go ASAP.
-shane


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 Post subject: Re: SHO eyelet
PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:02 pm 
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snizzle wrote:
It definitely is a lot of fun drawing these up though. My wife thinks I'm crazy.
-shane


but shane, we are all crazy :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

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